and he told me that the way to adjust TPS when installing the Accufab SBTB, is to do it with the truck running until you get the desired idle speed. I'm like, WHAT?!!!

Yeah, he said to completely disregard the .98-.99 TPS recommended setting, and just go by idle speed/characteristics by moving the TPS while the truck is idling. He said they used to do it using TPS voltage, but now do it w/out checking the voltage as their preferred method these days.

I asked about the TPS voltage under full-throttle being off by doing it his way, and he pretty much blew that off as a non-issue.

I then asked him about the "hanging up" that the throttle body causes, and he claims the computer will "relearn" itself and no longer "hang up" within a couple days.

Is this a bunch of bunk, or have any of you done it this way and it worked out okay?

 

The recommended way to set the TPS is by ohms.

 

I never heard of that before?
It's a potentiometer that varies voltage?

 

AND HALF THE TIME YOU HAVE TO DRILL IT JUST TO BE ABLE TO
ADJUST IT.

The Ford world have been adjusting with the Meter for years and it's ALWAYS worked PERFECT. What do they know, they're NOT motor heads or mechanics, they just make it (well ok you'd think they would know the right way, but Ford is still learning aint they)


Drill if needed (BTW, YOU MUST HAVE CAKE WHILE DOING IT) hehe


Adjust

 

Or, for better instructions, you can check out my "how to" for the TPS: https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=66431

 

Guys!!! You all are missing the point.

I know how to adjust a TPS. Take a look at the orig post up top as to how Accufab is saying to adjust their throttle body with the TPS.

I already went through the whole ritual of properly adjusting the TPS (like over five times) and no matter what I did, the end result was the same: the SBTB idled too high, and the RPM's would "hand up" after getting off the gas.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=174824

 

Blown347,
I don't have a Lightning, but I agree with AccuFab in general. I used my autotap software to adjust my TPS to factory specs and it was off. The idle was high and my trans shift points were messed up since this reads from the same sensor.

I got to within factory specs using the autotap and then fine tuned by RPM manually at idle.

I'm going to try another approach and use a feeler gauge behind the throttle linkage stop and measure the continuity on the TPS prongs. My manual also shows this as an option.

 

Yes, most people adjust by voltage..which seems to work ok. The proper way is to adjust the tps by ohms. Manufacturers adjust this way too. I believe Accufab actually recommends this method. I'd give them a call back and verify what you should be reading on the meter. Hope this helps.

 

I adjusted mine using the same method that I posted..
Those instructions were given to me by BABOLT, who used to make badass throttle body's.
Thats what works for me, but your results may vary.

 

Please explain how you would use ohms, over voltage.

 

Blown, is it possible SOMETHING else is wrong ?

I got to tell you, I drove around A LONG time with mine
un-adjusted. And when I FINALLY adjusted it
(ya I used Clone Tek's How To, (shh don't tell him)
I HAD NO DIFF AT ALL, AND IT WAS OFF BY A MILE,
enough that I had to drill the TPS in order to get it within spec,
AND I STILL FELT NO DIFF
It was perfect before I adjusted it, and remains perfect years later, after I adjusted it. MAYBE something else is wrong ???




SHOW OFF

hehehehehehe



BTW
(dam my old camera was bad)

 

I have never heard of setting the throttle body based on TPS voltage. it doesn't make any sense to me at all. in fact it sounds completely backwards.

the sensor monitors the throttle blade position, if you are moving the blade manually, then the sensor does not know what is going on. you have to set the blade to it's proper closed or idle position and then adjust the sensor so that it reads a voltage that the PCM understands as closed throttle.

I set the throttle body until it closes without sticking/binding and then adjust the TPS to read about .99v

the throttle BLADE, not the TP SENSOR controls the amount of air entering the engine. what happens if your throttle blade is set 1/2 way open and your truck idles at 4500 rpms, but your TP sensor is reading CT position or .9v does that mean that your throttle body is properly set?

NO.

I think alot of people make this a bigger deal than it really is trying to "fine tune" their TP sensor for increased performance is BS in my opinion.

the pcm will learn what is Closed Throttle regardless of if you have it set at .98 or .99 or 1.0

when I hear people talking about setting their TPS to .9997543 volts and "feeling an improvement" or "better throttle response" over their previous setting of .9996532 volts. I just don't get it.

just my .02

later,
chris

 

he isn't trying to optimise it, he is trying to get it to run right.

My opinion is sell that TB and put the stock one back on till you can find another one. The method they gave you is completely wrong. You know how the computer reads the voltage and where it is supposted to be but the TB still isn't doing what it's supposed to.

Did you try to swap TPS sensors and see if that works? Don't bother with the .99 volts deal, just swap them.

Hope you get it working right.

 

Dan, you seem to be one of the few who "get" my post.
Anyway, this is what I got in my email today from the Accufab tech;

"Greg, I recommend that you follow my instructions. Disregard the "factory idle speed" RPM. It's not a "factory" engine anymore. It has alot more CFM of air going into it. The "hanging-up" you are describing is do to incorrecly setting your idle speed by not using the TPS. This is a computer issue, not a TB issue. Do what I say and we will make your car behave correctly. Disregard the volt meter settings, no longer relavent."

Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but if I do it the way their tech says, then the WOT voltage may be off in left field. I asked him about the possibility of the WOT voltage not being where it's supposed to, and the ECM not adding enough fuel for the throttle position, etc. This was another thing that he seemed to feel was a non-issue. He even explained to me that it idles higher because it flows much more CFM than a stock throttle body, and it's making more HP at idle.

 

"Disregard the 'factory idle speed' RPM. It's not a 'factory' engine anymore. It has alot more CFM of air going into it."

What a load of crap.

A stupid throttle body is not going to supply any more CFM unless the engine is asking for it. By itself it is meaningless.

Not a "factory engine anymore" because I installed a mod that might make 5 rwHP on a good day?

Hard to imagine that bozos like this can stay in business.