Well said Tim

Blown, if this Prob Started when you put the T/B on,
the answer is very simple, you simply have a bad T/B.

As said (and everyone's agreeing), mine was off by a mile and ran great, yet when I set it up according to the Method Shown,
there was no noticable change and to date mine continue's to work flawless.

 

I need to send it back and try another one, I guess.

What about Billet Flow? Anybody feel they are better than Accufab?

Tim. My reaction was the same as yours. I even told the guy something to the same effect as you, that the throttle body makes approx 5-10 HP and he even argued with me on that. He argued with me on that, claiming 20-30HP.


Rob. Is your idle 700 RPM in neutral, and 600 in drive?

 

Im confused - if you open the throttle body to let more air in the engine revs - so is the dog wagging the tail or is the tail wagging the dog... ?

Doug

 

Bottom line is, it appears we (I) am being told anything by Accufab in order for them to justify standing behind their product, regardless of how far off the mark it might be, in relation to running half decent. Even when you methodically install their product by correct procedure, it doesn't work. So, what is their explanation? Throw procedure out the window. It just doesn't make any sense.

 

maybe you could buy one that comes with a TPS sensor already set

 

But, I know how to set one.......

 

I've had the Accufab SBTB for several years and when I first installed the idle speed would hang up at about 1100rpm and then tend to drift down - so I bent the throttle spring bracket back a bit and idle speed immediately dropped down to about 700 in neutral - and has stayed that way ever since - and the throttle blade doesn't stick either. But I've noted several on here that have had problems with the Accufab and idle speed and when they switch back to their original - everythings fine, so it would seem that we're not all getting the same quality in this unit. Sure seems like odd advice from them - that the tps voltage is irrevalent as the "computer" still "looking" for throttle position and adjusting accordingly. I checked my TPS voltage and it measured at about .96 volts - so I filed the tps screw openings a bit and adjusted it to what "my meter measured" at .99. But my meter isn't real expensive so I'd guess my tps voltage is "really" somewhere between about .98 - 1.01 volts at closed position. After I did this, I didn't notice any change in idle speed or anything else - and I really didn't expect to as I initially measured at .96 volts and I knew the meter wasn't terribly accurate. If it had turned out that the voltage as initially measued was around .8 volts or so - I would think that would have made a difference in idle speed. I think unless you have a really accurate meter, lets say accurate within +- .1% - trying to fuss around a lot between .985 and .995 is probably not going to result in any real change in performance.