first test drive with the long tubes! and something blows up!
first test drive with the long tubes! and something blows up!
well, i just installed the dynatech full exhaust and went around the block for a test drive...just playing around with diffrent things and listening to them...i put the truck in low gear (1) and brought it up to about 3,500 rpm and i was planning to let off the gas and let the RPM's just fall back down and hear what it sounded like...well i get up to around 3,500 and without touching anything it hear BOOM! and it shot forward, felt like it shifted into 2nd really hard! i coasted down the street, and then atempted to give it some gas to make it my buddys house....and the truck would violently shake, and would barley move forward! of course the SES light came on, and my over drive button was blinking?!?!? never seen that before. Well i got it to his house (only like 100 feet away) and it looked like it was dripping oil from the rear main seal. Usually i can rev it really high in park or Nuetral..punch the gas for a second and let everyone hear the blower nice and loud...well now i can push the pedal to the flow in park and it will just bounce at around 2,500 RPM and make a horrible noise, like its running without a MAF...the truck wont even move if you put it into gear and give it some gas....any idea what might have went out??? truck is a 2000 with 35,000 miles
I have no idea whats wrong, but if there is a SES Light, and your Overdrive light is blinking I would say it is a trans problem.
Get someone to read the codes, and let us know what codes come up.
Get someone to read the codes, and let us know what codes come up.
Like Don says. However I think Martman had a similar prob a while back, turned out one of the O2 sensors shorted out against the heat sheild. Not sure about the oil though, how much are you talking about?
I'd guess wiring got melted also but for sure stop doing this!..........................
"well now i can push the pedal to the flow in park and it will just bounce at around 2,500 RPM and make a horrible noise"
"well now i can push the pedal to the flow in park and it will just bounce at around 2,500 RPM and make a horrible noise"
its just like a constant drip...would a bad 02 sensor really make it undriveable??? i mean i cant take it on the street at all..not even limp home....
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Check the wires for your O2's and check the fuses under the hood. Sounds like you melted the wire and blew the fuse. Puts the trans in 3rd gear as a fail-safe mode. Check out those two things and get back to us. I would check over the WHOLE job too in case any other things got looked over(check all the wiring). Goodluck. -Mat-
Originally posted by LeoGSVT
its just like a constant drip...would a bad 02 sensor really make it undriveable??? i mean i cant take it on the street at all..not even limp home....
its just like a constant drip...would a bad 02 sensor really make it undriveable??? i mean i cant take it on the street at all..not even limp home....
I hope it's nothing major.
(fingers crossed smilie needed here)
good luck.
later,
chris
I have a nissan pickup that is my everyday truck. The other day it was just going fine. I pulled to the mail box and started to pull off and it just shut off. It would start and run fine up to 2450 rpms not a one over. It was like it was on the rev limiter.
When I found the problem it was the mass air flow meter bad.
You think the parts for our lightnings is high the mass air was $450 at nissan and they are the only one that makes it. Got a deal on it from a old friend that we raced with a long time ago. It was only $300.
When I found the problem it was the mass air flow meter bad.
You think the parts for our lightnings is high the mass air was $450 at nissan and they are the only one that makes it. Got a deal on it from a old friend that we raced with a long time ago. It was only $300.
See if the fluid is redish color or black/brown. That will tell you if it's tranny fluid or oil. I bet it's your tranny. I wouldn't bother rebuilding it...buy one already done. Send yours back for the core charge. If it's under warranty, good luck getting it replaced.


