Anthony is sending me out a set today



Haha, i've already stole everything else off my father's truck.......hehe. I have a set should be here tomorrow.

First i used a bosch sensor, then Don's bolt and I put in 2 oem ford sensors........not difference.

This sucks. Did i mention that yet

 

probably, I can't remember what I ate for breakfast most days...


tallimeca, if you want to, maybe you could use an ohmeter and resistance test the individual wires on the extenders, maybe there is a faulty wire or a bad crimp on one of the pins or something weird like that? or just wait till the new ones come in and see if they do the trick.

either way, good luck.

later,
chris

 

I would change the extenders before you go crazy about other options.

-Daniel

 

I agree with Chris on this one...

I was troubleshooting a defective wiring harness recently that looked perfect, and actually would work perfect most of the time. However, when one wire moved ever so slightly it would lose its connection. Odd thing is that it would not lose the connection completely, but just enough to throw things off.

It turned out that the stranded wire inside of the sheathing had broken. I decided to strip the wires to replace the connector, and when I stripped this particular wire, several inches of bare wire pulled out of the sheathing. I have no idea if this was a manufacturing defect, or if the wire had bent at too sharp of a radius that caused this to happen. Regardless, things like this can and will happen with electrical equipment...

Good luck!

 

Ok, here's the latest. Don's Bolt and I changed all my plugs, and all my coil packs. The plugs were really rusty, which is odd because i never wash my motor and have never used ice at the track since i changed my plugs last and had the same problem with the rust.

The electrodes were fine, no damage. They were however more on the black side than i have seen on my truck before. Not wet and oily looking. More a dryish black. No buildup or deposits. I'm wondering if i have an egr problem that may be causing this.......or a real rich mixture??

Anyhow, truck seem to idle much better. When i rev the engine, as the rpms come down, my a/f guage needle sweeps all the way to 18, and then back to normal. Maybe the lousy 10 miles i drove without the sensor connected did screw my sensor up???

Anyhow, i drove home from Probie's house with the predator attached to ck the short and long term fuel trims. What this means to me isnt' much, except negative means rich and positive means lean. I got on it a couple times to see what's going on. No ses lights came on the whole ride home.

Here's what i was getting for readings. Maybe you guys can help me on this. These reading are in percent per using the Predator.

At idle with it in drive, or as to stop at a light, LT's were hovering around 10, ST's were around -4

At idle in park, Lt's were around 13, st's around 0

Under any kind of light to moderat acceleration from a stop, Lt's were around 0, St's were about -10.

1/2 throttle acceleration from a stop or roll showed Lt's around 2, St's around -16.

3/4 acceleration from a roll showed Lt around 2, st at -24.

During cruise around 2k rpm, Lt's around 2, St around -4

If I'm cruising around 2k, and let off completely, Lt around 0, st's around 10



Going to Ford in the morning. This is going to be interesting i'm sure.

 

after i built my longblock i came up with a slow 02 ses light. if i remember right it was only on bank 1. i replaced it and the ses light never came back.

 

Got the truck back from ford.........here's the latest.

Tech said the truck is running REAL lean. He said my long term fuel trims were way out of wack and the short term trim shows the truck was dumping fuel and was maxing out. Now, two things, the chip wasn't in the truck, and i had the 90mm maf on it without the chip, which usually makes it lean.

Also, he said the rear 02 sensors didn't seem to be functioning. He said if he really romped it, he would get a little bit of voltage, but nothing. He said they weren't switching back and forth. He said this could be caused by the headers and high flows.

He said basically, it's hard for him to tell me what's wrong because he can only compare the specs to what they are supposed to be stock, and with all the mods......there's no where for him to start. He said basically it's getting real lean under acceleration, and the rear 02 sensors seem to not be ****ioning, or switching back and forth. Every thing else seems fine.

I'm just completely ****ed now. I called and made an appointment at JDM. I gotta talk to Jim this week when he returns from Texas.

I've run out of ideas.

 

Did you actually change the O2 sensor wiring yet?

I ran lt's and high-flows on my 2000 for over 25,000 miles before I chipped it and had 0 problems. My dyno ran PIG rich with it maxing out at 10A/F by ~4500rpms.

Dan

 

i picked the truck up from ford after 5 last night, by the time i got home i was just so disgusted i parked it.

I'm gonna change the harnesses tonight or tomorrow and see what happens.

I don't see why i'm so lean, headers are supposed to richen the mixture.

 

did you make sure you have no unmetered air leaks? What are the 02 sensors doing while at idle, cruise, wot? If you snap the throttle durring idle what does the lt fuel trims do?

The way your shrt and lng trm fuel trims are bassackwards it looks like a maf or unmetered air problem but with running a diff mass than stock that could do it aswell.

I'd watch the 1-1 and 2-1 o2 sensors and see what they are reading, do they cross count? (switch back and forth at a steady rate?, do they hover low voltage or high?)

BTW - The rear o2 sensors do not cross count (should not) - they hover around .5v they will change durring load but do not cross count.

The front however should cross count - by the codes you gave they are not cross counting but if you can see what voltage they show it can help in diag. Lets say they don't move and have low voltage then maybe the harness is shorted to ground - on the other hand lets say you are showing over 1v - well the o2 sensor range is 0-1v so that would mean a short to power or a bad harness wiring (eg a harness could have the pins for the heater circuit wired into the signal circuit wich would cause the no response code)

 

Does it do the same thing with the chip in?

Are you running a breather cap and the 90mm MAF without a chip?

If you are not running the chip put the 80mm MAF back on and see if the problem clears up.

 

it went in yesterday with no chip in because i was told that it would interfare with the diagnostics, so i'm thinking that may be why it shows so lean because it still had the 90mm and breather cap on there. But he said that the rear 02's weren't showing any voltage unless he romped it.

Running with the predator, i can watch the fuel trims and o2 voltage. I know the 02's seem to go back and forth from between like .3 to .9 volts just constantly up and down. Not sure why the hell there would be a slow response. Those codes have not come back since changing the coil packs and plugs.

The rear o2 sensors i have no clue. He said when you start the truck you should see like .5-.8 volts. He said he was getting nothing at all unless he goosed it.

What happens is when i accelerated the a/f goes real lean, then swings back up to normal. When i'm driving and come to a stop, the a/f goes way over to 18 and you can feel the truck not running right.


What should the lt fuel trims be looking like normally? Short term??

I sprayed all around the intake and no signs of leaks. Swapped mass airs off a working truck and didn't make a difference.

What would cause the rear 02's not to functions. What are their functions. I may be leaking from the clamps where the mid pipes attach to the cats. Could that cause it???

 

take off the oil cap breather and put the cap back on - get rid of any other unmetered air sources. If possible put the stock maf back on.

Check to make sure the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator is on, if so then check your fuel pressure as you said you are going lean durring wot. also check all your fuses and relays just incase your fuel pump is not going to high speed and causing lean on accel.

 

Try cleaning the wires inside the MAF with a Q-tip and some brake cleaner
Mike

 

changed the harness, no difference.

I have no idea what i'm getting at wot. I don't dare bring it there. But under moderate throtte, it just dips over to 17 and as the rpms come up, it will come back to normal.

My chip is tuned for an oil cap breather, would that matter?

Anyhow, what does anyone make of the rear 02's. Would they make the mixture lean. I sprayed down the throttle body gasket, the plenum gasket, and the intake track gaskets and got no engine response.

After it starts, and i rev it a few times and let it idle, you can hear it stumbling a bit and you can steadily watch the a/f guage drop.........then you can hear the engine pick up again.............then the a/f will go to normal.

Could the egr have anything to do with this. If the egr was stuck open or closed, could that affect it???