Just to make sure before it goes in the shop
Just to make sure before it goes in the shop
My truck is FINALLY getting into the shop next week to get some bolts on done and I just wanted to confirm a few things so I can make sure the mechanics are st8 and the L is good to go afterwards.
OK this is whats getting done,4# Qwk change pully,NGKTR6 plugs,Accufab TB,AF1 intake.
Now the plugs should be gapped 0.036-0.038(.038 being prefered)?
A/F should be between 11.5-118? Nothing over 12 right?
They will tweak the new TB correct?
Does the timing need adjusting? What is prefered for my setup?
The owner is a Predator dealer and he said he can do a custom tune for me which would be sweet. One stop shop with the other crap I need done.
I am not a mechanical stud but I am trying to get smarter and I just want to make sure everything is done right the 1st time. I am sure you can agree on that.
Bonus ? Does going to a 160 degree stat require the plug gap to be different and is it really a necassary addition? My L is a weekend driver yet I want it to perform when i feel the need for speed.
I have had it for a couple weeks now so i am learning slowly but surely. Next month is the new exhaust system(Bassani),and some new chrome L wheels put on.
Thanks guys me and my ride appreciate the info.
Russ.
OK this is whats getting done,4# Qwk change pully,NGKTR6 plugs,Accufab TB,AF1 intake.
Now the plugs should be gapped 0.036-0.038(.038 being prefered)?
A/F should be between 11.5-118? Nothing over 12 right?
They will tweak the new TB correct?
Does the timing need adjusting? What is prefered for my setup?
The owner is a Predator dealer and he said he can do a custom tune for me which would be sweet. One stop shop with the other crap I need done.
I am not a mechanical stud but I am trying to get smarter and I just want to make sure everything is done right the 1st time. I am sure you can agree on that.
Bonus ? Does going to a 160 degree stat require the plug gap to be different and is it really a necassary addition? My L is a weekend driver yet I want it to perform when i feel the need for speed.
I have had it for a couple weeks now so i am learning slowly but surely. Next month is the new exhaust system(Bassani),and some new chrome L wheels put on.
Thanks guys me and my ride appreciate the info.
Russ.
-You're right about the plug gap, .36-.38 is fine.
-A/F in the mid 11's is safe...the closer to 12 you get the less safe you are...If you want a safe tune, I would say go 11.4-11.5
-Not sure about the TB
-Timing definately needs to be adjusted...the tune he'll put on there should take care of that...I'm not a tuner so I can't say what the ideal timing is (Rob, where are you at on this one?)...
-The 160 t-stat doesn't require anything other tweeks, but be warned...I put one on my 03 and it threw a code a day later...the engine wouldn't get hot enough for closed loop control, basicly the t-stat was never closing...took it off, reset code and it never came back.
-dennis
-A/F in the mid 11's is safe...the closer to 12 you get the less safe you are...If you want a safe tune, I would say go 11.4-11.5
-Not sure about the TB
-Timing definately needs to be adjusted...the tune he'll put on there should take care of that...I'm not a tuner so I can't say what the ideal timing is (Rob, where are you at on this one?)...
-The 160 t-stat doesn't require anything other tweeks, but be warned...I put one on my 03 and it threw a code a day later...the engine wouldn't get hot enough for closed loop control, basicly the t-stat was never closing...took it off, reset code and it never came back.
-dennis
Originally posted by denny0328
-You're right about the plug gap, .36-.38 is fine.
-A/F in the mid 11's is safe...the closer to 12 you get the less safe you are...If you want a safe tune, I would say go 11.4-11.5
-Not sure about the TB
-Timing definately needs to be adjusted...the tune he'll put on there should take care of that...I'm not a tuner so I can't say what the ideal timing is (Rob, where are you at on this one?)...
-The 160 t-stat doesn't require anything other tweeks, but be warned...I put one on my 03 and it threw a code a day later...the engine wouldn't get hot enough for closed loop control, basicly the t-stat was never closing...took it off, reset code and it never came back.
-dennis
-You're right about the plug gap, .36-.38 is fine.
-A/F in the mid 11's is safe...the closer to 12 you get the less safe you are...If you want a safe tune, I would say go 11.4-11.5
-Not sure about the TB
-Timing definately needs to be adjusted...the tune he'll put on there should take care of that...I'm not a tuner so I can't say what the ideal timing is (Rob, where are you at on this one?)...
-The 160 t-stat doesn't require anything other tweeks, but be warned...I put one on my 03 and it threw a code a day later...the engine wouldn't get hot enough for closed loop control, basicly the t-stat was never closing...took it off, reset code and it never came back.
-dennis
Russ.
Ya What Denny Said
Sounds like you got a great plan Russ,
YOUR GOING TO LOVE THE RESULTS, WOO HOO
My plugs are @ .038
MAKE SURE YOU ARE INVOLVED IN THE TUNING,
another words ASK AND KNOW WHAT YOU'R GETTING
A Good all around setting for Timing would be @16 Degrees
(thats what you want to see AT WOT "MAX RPM AND MPH")
Mines much higher, but that a good safe strong spot to be
I like a Rich A/F, so I agree mid 11's (keep it safe)
Other things you need to address are
Shift Points, Rev Limiter, Torque Reduction, and Tip in.
I happen to like Shift Points @ 5500 RPM or more, BUT
(you prob want to go with 5250 - 5300)
I ALWAYS go with Torque Reduction OFF (fac setting is ON)
(but understand it is there to lessen the stress on the trans)
Rev Limiter @5500/5600 "if" you go with 5250- 5300 Shift Points.
(you always want @ 200 - 300 RPM Higher Limiter than Shift Point)
I have mine set much higher, (but with N20, you DEF dont want to hit it, "and shut off the flow of Fuel").
Just understand that the A/F is sometimes much leaner than you may think you should have "at low RPM and MPH". Mine doesn't get under 12 to after 3500 RPM @ WOT, and thats Fine.
Pulls like a Mudder Frucker off the line, and around town
These days a good tuner with the new generation tuning can flat line a A/F from 600 to 6000 RPM, but it doesn't always work out that way. At WOT and once above @ 4000 RPM, is where the numbers get critical, this is where you DO NOT want to be near 12 or higher.
Don't worry,
If he's a Diablo Dealer and a good tuner, he'll know what to do with the Tip in, total timing, A/F, shift points, etc....
Just make sure you talk about it and decide on where YOU WANT the Shift Points, Limiter, Torque Reduction, and Highest A/F and Timing shown at the top end of the Dyno Run (or Data Logging) ???
Oh ya,
Yes an after market T/B needs to have it's TPS adjusted
Sounds like you got a great plan Russ,
YOUR GOING TO LOVE THE RESULTS, WOO HOO
My plugs are @ .038
MAKE SURE YOU ARE INVOLVED IN THE TUNING,
another words ASK AND KNOW WHAT YOU'R GETTING
A Good all around setting for Timing would be @16 Degrees
(thats what you want to see AT WOT "MAX RPM AND MPH")
Mines much higher, but that a good safe strong spot to be
I like a Rich A/F, so I agree mid 11's (keep it safe)
Other things you need to address are
Shift Points, Rev Limiter, Torque Reduction, and Tip in.
I happen to like Shift Points @ 5500 RPM or more, BUT
(you prob want to go with 5250 - 5300)
I ALWAYS go with Torque Reduction OFF (fac setting is ON)
(but understand it is there to lessen the stress on the trans)
Rev Limiter @5500/5600 "if" you go with 5250- 5300 Shift Points.
(you always want @ 200 - 300 RPM Higher Limiter than Shift Point)
I have mine set much higher, (but with N20, you DEF dont want to hit it, "and shut off the flow of Fuel").
Just understand that the A/F is sometimes much leaner than you may think you should have "at low RPM and MPH". Mine doesn't get under 12 to after 3500 RPM @ WOT, and thats Fine.
Pulls like a Mudder Frucker off the line, and around town

These days a good tuner with the new generation tuning can flat line a A/F from 600 to 6000 RPM, but it doesn't always work out that way. At WOT and once above @ 4000 RPM, is where the numbers get critical, this is where you DO NOT want to be near 12 or higher.
Don't worry,
If he's a Diablo Dealer and a good tuner, he'll know what to do with the Tip in, total timing, A/F, shift points, etc....
Just make sure you talk about it and decide on where YOU WANT the Shift Points, Limiter, Torque Reduction, and Highest A/F and Timing shown at the top end of the Dyno Run (or Data Logging) ???
Oh ya,
Yes an after market T/B needs to have it's TPS adjusted
Originally posted by Rob_02Lightning
Ya What Denny Said
Sounds like you got a great plan Russ,
YOUR GOING TO LOVE THE RESULTS, WOO HOO
My plugs are @ .038
MAKE SURE YOU ARE INVOLVED IN THE TUNING,
another words ASK AND KNOW WHAT YOU'R GETTING
A Good all around setting for Timing would be @16 Degrees
(thats what you want to see AT WOT "MAX RPM AND MPH")
Mines much higher, but that a good safe strong spot to be
I like a Rich A/F, so I agree mid 11's (keep it safe)
Other things you need to address are
Shift Points, Rev Limiter, Torque Reduction, and Tip in.
I happen to like Shift Points @ 5500 RPM or more, BUT
(you prob want to go with 5250 - 5300)
I ALWAYS go with Torque Reduction OFF (fac setting is ON)
(but understand it is there to lessen the stress on the trans)
Rev Limiter @5500/5600 "if" you go with 5250- 5300 Shift Points.
(you always want @ 200 - 300 RPM Higher Limiter than Shift Point)
I have mine set much higher, (but with N20, you DEF dont want to hit it, "and shut off the flow of Fuel").
Just understand that the A/F is sometimes much leaner than you may think you should have "at low RPM and MPH". Mine doesn't get under 12 to after 3500 RPM @ WOT, and thats Fine.
Pulls like a Mudder Frucker off the line, and around town
These days a good tuner with the new generation tuning can flat line a A/F from 600 to 6000 RPM, but it doesn't always work out that way. At WOT and once above @ 4000 RPM, is where the numbers get critical, this is where you DO NOT want to be near 12 or higher.
Don't worry,
If he's a Diablo Dealer and a good tuner, he'll know what to do with the Tip in, total timing, A/F, shift points, etc....
Just make sure you talk about it and decide on where YOU WANT the Shift Points, Limiter, Torque Reduction, and Highest A/F and Timing shown at the top end of the Dyno Run (or Data Logging) ???
Oh ya,
Yes an after market T/B needs to have it's TPS adjusted
Ya What Denny Said
Sounds like you got a great plan Russ,
YOUR GOING TO LOVE THE RESULTS, WOO HOO
My plugs are @ .038
MAKE SURE YOU ARE INVOLVED IN THE TUNING,
another words ASK AND KNOW WHAT YOU'R GETTING
A Good all around setting for Timing would be @16 Degrees
(thats what you want to see AT WOT "MAX RPM AND MPH")
Mines much higher, but that a good safe strong spot to be
I like a Rich A/F, so I agree mid 11's (keep it safe)
Other things you need to address are
Shift Points, Rev Limiter, Torque Reduction, and Tip in.
I happen to like Shift Points @ 5500 RPM or more, BUT
(you prob want to go with 5250 - 5300)
I ALWAYS go with Torque Reduction OFF (fac setting is ON)
(but understand it is there to lessen the stress on the trans)
Rev Limiter @5500/5600 "if" you go with 5250- 5300 Shift Points.
(you always want @ 200 - 300 RPM Higher Limiter than Shift Point)
I have mine set much higher, (but with N20, you DEF dont want to hit it, "and shut off the flow of Fuel").
Just understand that the A/F is sometimes much leaner than you may think you should have "at low RPM and MPH". Mine doesn't get under 12 to after 3500 RPM @ WOT, and thats Fine.
Pulls like a Mudder Frucker off the line, and around town

These days a good tuner with the new generation tuning can flat line a A/F from 600 to 6000 RPM, but it doesn't always work out that way. At WOT and once above @ 4000 RPM, is where the numbers get critical, this is where you DO NOT want to be near 12 or higher.
Don't worry,
If he's a Diablo Dealer and a good tuner, he'll know what to do with the Tip in, total timing, A/F, shift points, etc....
Just make sure you talk about it and decide on where YOU WANT the Shift Points, Limiter, Torque Reduction, and Highest A/F and Timing shown at the top end of the Dyno Run (or Data Logging) ???
Oh ya,
Yes an after market T/B needs to have it's TPS adjusted
Russ.
Originally posted by LightninMike
i have a 170 thermo in my truck and have never had any problems
it may just be a little bit cooler but i am sure it helps, even if just a little bit
i have a 170 thermo in my truck and have never had any problems
it may just be a little bit cooler but i am sure it helps, even if just a little bit
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Originally posted by AirborneRacer
Thanks for the info. I will scratch the stat idea. Dont want to run into problems. Maybe I should think about the idea of a electric fan,alum.heat exchanger,and a plasma booster and that may be it for the engine,hmmm maybe a hi flo water pump aslo would be good also? Thank you
Russ.
Thanks for the info. I will scratch the stat idea. Dont want to run into problems. Maybe I should think about the idea of a electric fan,alum.heat exchanger,and a plasma booster and that may be it for the engine,hmmm maybe a hi flo water pump aslo would be good also? Thank you
Russ.
Originally posted by JimJr
E-Fan is alright. Heat Exchanger will only help while on long WOT runs like autocrossing. Plasma booster is downright useless. Water pump in the 03 is about as good as you're going to get. Dont get the cobra. Dont go electric incase it dies then your truck dies. Good Luck. Jim
E-Fan is alright. Heat Exchanger will only help while on long WOT runs like autocrossing. Plasma booster is downright useless. Water pump in the 03 is about as good as you're going to get. Dont get the cobra. Dont go electric incase it dies then your truck dies. Good Luck. Jim
No need to "waste" money on something that has no big benefit. I can use it towards other mods. What about a aluminum radiator? Dont here much about those in the Ls.
I will probably look at the E fan though. A little less work on the engine w/ the stocker removed I guess.
I probably need to look hard at the FTVB since I hear allot of people talking about that. I just want to keep the engine and trans happy so I will be happy. Not to much of a problem just yet since I only have 500 miles on the beast,lol.
Thanks again, Russ.
Originally posted by JimJr
the radiator would also be a waste unless you're going to do autocrossing. The stock one is more than efficient
the radiator would also be a waste unless you're going to do autocrossing. The stock one is more than efficient
Is the FTVB something I should consider upgrading to for the trans?
Russ


