Its about damn time!
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Eddyville, Ky
Its about damn time!
Well, after waiting for over a month, I finally got my Apten ported Eaton. But now I have 2 problems.
The S/C has the Eaton logo on the front instead of the Ford/SVT logos. I do not like that because it would not look stock(unless I had a 99/00 L
). And, I have to take the pulley off the stock s/c and put it on the new one. So, I need a tool to remove it.
So what I need to know is can I just swap cases and keep the Ford/SVT name plate to keep it looking stock? And where can I get a pulley removal tool?
No flames please, I try not to sound dumb.
The S/C has the Eaton logo on the front instead of the Ford/SVT logos. I do not like that because it would not look stock(unless I had a 99/00 L
). And, I have to take the pulley off the stock s/c and put it on the new one. So, I need a tool to remove it.So what I need to know is can I just swap cases and keep the Ford/SVT name plate to keep it looking stock? And where can I get a pulley removal tool?
No flames please, I try not to sound dumb.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,454
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From: NY
You can just swap cases, I did it just last weekend.
Make sure you get S/C fluid first. Buy it at a GM dealer it is 1/2 the price of Ford.
You got a swap. That sucks you had to wait a month and you got back an 3 year old s/c. In defense of Apten though I think you have to specify that you want your supercharger sent back to you and not an exchange. I requested and got mine back.
Make sure you get S/C fluid first. Buy it at a GM dealer it is 1/2 the price of Ford.
You got a swap. That sucks you had to wait a month and you got back an 3 year old s/c. In defense of Apten though I think you have to specify that you want your supercharger sent back to you and not an exchange. I requested and got mine back.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 11,153
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From: Selden NY
If you swap the nose correctly, you WILL NOT LOSE ONE DROP
"nor need to add ANY S/C oil" (of course check it though)
Take the 8 bolts out, and pull the entire nose assy out in one piece, making sure you seperate it at the proper place.
It can be seperated at two diff spots, you want to seperate it
right here where I seperated mine, (right at the case)
Notice in this picture, right in front of where you see that bar code sticker, it can also be seperated there, YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO THAT. Simply pull it out in one assy, and slide it back in the other case. WAM now you have your Rotors, Nose, and Pulley.
The only thing you need to check is these two bearings where the Rear of the Rotors Sit in.
Other than that, simply slide the assy out of both, and slide them back in the other in one piece, you will not lose one drop of fluid either.
"nor need to add ANY S/C oil" (of course check it though)
Take the 8 bolts out, and pull the entire nose assy out in one piece, making sure you seperate it at the proper place.
It can be seperated at two diff spots, you want to seperate it
right here where I seperated mine, (right at the case)
Notice in this picture, right in front of where you see that bar code sticker, it can also be seperated there, YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO THAT. Simply pull it out in one assy, and slide it back in the other case. WAM now you have your Rotors, Nose, and Pulley.
The only thing you need to check is these two bearings where the Rear of the Rotors Sit in.
Other than that, simply slide the assy out of both, and slide them back in the other in one piece, you will not lose one drop of fluid either.
Now I need to find some time to do the swap.