Ok, I know it probably gets boring reading some of the "low" #s that I'm posting, but I wanted to see what you guys think about them...and how my future plans might affect the #s.

Went to Real Performance Motorsports (RPM) which is owned and operated by a good friend of mine, Keith Lohse. When he dyno'd it, he waited a bit long to nail it, so the pulls didn't start til 3700rpm. I know he was thinking it would downshift if he hit it any earlier. So, I believe my posted RWTQ is low (after all it made peak TQ at 3700). Don't these things typically make peak TQ ~3400 or so?

Anyway, it dyno'd at 376rwhp/440rwtq. Here are my mods: 2psi pulley, REM air intake, Magnaflow cat-back, SCT 9100 (93 octane program). The truck also only has 3400 miles on it, so I think it will make more once its really broken in a bit more. Maybe not. Anyway, I'm pleased with this considering I had the same mods on my '99 and it made 363rwhp. Again, I do believe if he'd started the pull a bit lower in the rev range, it would have shown more TQ... like 450 or so. What do you think?

Also, what do you guys see as far as gains on the 100 octane race programs you run... for a mildly modded truck like mine? Maybe an extra 8-10rwhp?

Here is what I'm thinking about mod-wise. Apten ported blower. Hopefully this would get me to ~395rwhp without a pulley swap. Then consider adding a 4lb pulley which would get me to ~405+. I like the look of the C&L ported intake plenum too, but I am skeptical about their HP gain claims.

Thoughts?

 

Numbers sound good to me, CONGRATS WA 2 FST

The correct way to Dyno a L is OD off, take it up slow and easy till your in 3rd gear OVER 3000 RPM (usually @ 3300) THEN PUNCH IT

SOME of the ALL OUT race programs scare me, so I won't comment on that. If you want your truck to go faster, add power, add boost, add mods, BUT DONT GO OVER BOARD WITH A TUNE (ok maybe I did comment) hehehehe.........
I happen to believe in running 24/7 on my most aggressive program I have (@20 Degrees) ON PUMP GAS, and then actually tuning down at the track to keep it as safe as possible, (And then I use race fuel to be extra safe). Of course there are plenty of great Race Programs out there, but there are also some that use extremely aggressive ones, I myself feel are more dangerous than they are an advantage. I don't have a race car, I have a fast car that runs as good OR BETTER AND FASTER on the street than on the track.

Filter Chip n 4lb with a good tune will get you in the 400/500 club and the 12 sec club on a cool track day. Exhuast, Fans, Pump, Heat Exchangers, bla bla bla aint worth much in the HP department, so I don't use any of it, but to each his own.....

The Mods you mentioned are smart moves, and Apten has a Sale going right now for $395.00. Later as you say, you can go to a 4lb lower, and tinkle with stuff like a ported upper if you feel it's worth it.

CONGRATS, nice base line

 

Rob,

Honestly I agree with you about the race program stuff. This is one of the few vehicles I've owned that I haven't tuned myself. I sure wish they would come out with a REAL programmer for the Ford EEC-V, kind of like LS1-edit, etc for the GM products. I'm not spending thousands for chip burning software for JUST my truck, but I am confident I could tune it as well as the next guy.

Anyway, I agree with your philosophy about running a good, well tuned program and sticking with it. I would typically throw in some Phillips 66 B42 (105 unleaded) to mix in at the track anyway just to be on the safe side, no matter the program I'm running.

I already have a filter, chip and 2lb, so I'm not sure just going to the 4lb pulley would get me 400/500... the tune looks pretty good as it is (SCT 9100 by Troyer). The WOT A/F ratio is 12.0:1 all the way across the board.

But if the Apten would get me 20-25rwhp, that'd put me darn close to 400rwhp. I saw the sale at $395. Looks like a no-brainer given my mild goals for the truck.

Thanks for your input!

 

Sounds like you know exactly what your doing
BTW,
WHATS YOUR TIMING ???
YOU KNOW I LOVE TO TALK TIMING

 

Rob,

I do not have a scanner for a Ford EEC-V car, so I have no way at this point to actually verify what it is under load.

 

In general I think all will agree 16 is a great starting point,
most if not all will get away with it, AND for most it will be a nice fast safe program that can be used for street and strip.
With a multi chip, I'd go 16 degree on one, and 18 on the other, even higher if you want a more aggressive street / strip tune.

I found I need a Minimum of 16 to run well, I prob have (15) 13 sec time slips the first yr I had the L running 6lbs of pulley and 12-14 degrees of timing. Later I switched to 16-17 degree's and went straight to 12.7's and 12.8's without EVER running another 13, (no juice of course), and that was done with less boost, Filter-Chip-N-4lb + Accu Fab.

What I'm getting at is, sometimes 1 to 2 degrees more of timing CAN MAKE THE WORLD OF DIFFERENCE, AND POWER

 

Rob,

With my experience of tuning blown smallblocks, I wholeheartedly concur with you regarding timing. On my old '90 Mustang, I found that 3-4^ timing would easily = 35+rwhp, which was a big gain on an engine already making 575+rwhp.

It takes experimentation with each individual application, which is why I wish I could manipulate the programming myself. I think Troyer's tune for my truck is awfully good being a "cross-country" tune.

What is the leanest you've found you can run on 93 octane w/ these motors (talking A/F ratio here)?

 

I have a race program on my flip chip. I agree with you completey about a dangerous race program.......but not a race program in general. The only diference between the two programs is the timming. My race program is probably running less timming then your program period, so to say no race program probably isn't the best choice of phrase. Us.........dangerous program. All dangerous programs are bad.

What make a program dangerous??? Excessive timming, overly lean a/f rations, and dangerously high shift points are the main factors. These are the areas you play with fire. Obviously everything else is important too.


As for your mods. Those numbers are decent. You are right about startign the pull late. You should run it up through the gears to about 55-60 for a few second to where i think the convertor locks up.......roll it down to about 65 then mash it. Trucks running 355 gears like mine, you have to be about 72 or it will downshift.......i have a video of that happening.........pretty scary.

I would scrap the 2lb and go to the 4. I started with a 2 and was scared to death of the 4. The difference is night and day, yet drivability is still there. Get a good a/f and you're all set.

 

This is the leanest I ever ran


Too lean, ok J/K, that melt down was due to a clogging filter,
it's actually the best thing that ever happen to me.
I say that because the truck was brand new, (@5K on it)
and after that happen I changed my way of thinking and realized I needed safety built in to my tunes. After that I went to 2 zones colder plugs, added the Multi Spark Ignition, and richened up the tune. Hey if you cant get the tune you want, then tune your truck to the tune.

That particular tune was my first 16-17 degree program and def the most aggressive I had, The A/F was mid to high 11's with a dip into the low 12's at worse, 2-1/2 years ago people thought that was safe, schitt people were tuning in the 13's. LOTS OF BLOWN MOTORS NEEDLESS TO SAY
I had a lean condition at Top End everytime I raced it, but didn't realize what it was at the time. It use to kind of cut in and out like you were running out of gas
OR SOMETHING ?

When I later looked back at the pictures I was taking of the plugs when checking them after a day at the track with that weird cutting in and out

I realized those little white spots you see were the plugs being attacked, I guess thats known as Silent Detonation, maybe the worse kind ??? cause you can't hear it............ Sal was the one who explained what was happening and why, THANKS SAL....

That tune was also the fastest, I ran a 12.852 @106.47 MPH and that was full full weight, street gas, F-1's, Hellwig Traction Control Arms, no Accu-Fab, no FTVB, no NOTHING and on 4lbs of pulley w/ a single chip and open filter, not to mention a real schitty schitty track.

As I said after the melt down I decided --> COLDER + RICHER = SAFER. So I pumped up the timing, cooled up the Cylinders, gave it more spark (for a cleaner more efficient burn) and went with very rich A/F's more like 10's and maybe low 11's at worse.
Even now after many re-burns (I'm on my 10th Program)
the last (2) 12.7's I ran (off spray of course) were only at 103 - 104 MPH, I much rather give up a 1/10th or 2, and even a few MPH for safety. It ran 113.98 @11.81 and a string of 12.0's at 112 - 113.5 MPH so I'm very happy with it now.
I guess I should say then, that was the old system.

The Dyno #'s are with the Race Tested System, (501/615)
but since then I have bought larger jets (25 More Nitrous HP),
so next time out I'm expecting MY BEST EVER #'s, OR A BUILT MOTOR, hehehehehehe...............

 

You are 100% correct tallimeca, bad choice of words on my part.
I will correct that. I just know so many people that have such aggressive tunes that they can't even use them unless the tank is absolutely empty when they show at the track, and then put pure high octane racing fuel OR ELSE. And I'm not talking 100 Octane here, I'm talking the real deal. I've seen many not even be able to use their so called race program because of Octane Problems, THOSE ARE THE ONES I FEEL ARE DANGEROUS.