I have a question for everyone, I have tried to race two new vettes, (non ZO6) and they seem scared. The driver of the vette will get real close to the car in front of him so he can't get on it. My question is could my stock 2001 L beat a stock vette. Oh yeah both have been on a roll.

 

Not from a roll. You will stay close up to 100 mph. Then he will walk away from you. From a dead stop you will pull him out of the hole and you have a good chance of beating him in the 1320.

Put a chip, filter, pulley on your "L" and he is yours every time!!!!

Up to a quarter mile and then he will start reeling you in.

 

okay I have been reading these forums for awhile now, and I have no idea where I should start. I want 400+ rwhp but I also want a truck I can drive daily. Everyone says pulley, filter, and chip but I am not sure 4 # or 6 # pulley? What chip is best? Is there anyone in the Tampa area that could help with my truck.

 

Given the driver is a good driver then no. Not from a roll and not from a stop (through the 1/4mile) You will take him/her off the line but then they will pass you.

My cousin has a 97 corvette and and when I was stock I would take him till 60mph and then would close the gap and pull away. Now that I am modded (6# lower, chip, filter) I take him through the 1/4 mile but his mph is still higher then mine (usually by 1mpg. He had cat back (does nothing) and air intake and usually runs low 13's but did get one 12.98. HIs mph is usually between 107-110mph. My truck goes 12.6's@107mph FYI.

Now keep in mind driver of the Vette has a lot to do with it and 9 times out of 10 there is a guy who cant drive behind the wheel.

Just my 2 cents.

 

Lots of Lightning owners in the Tampa area. Many of them post here. If this Corvette thread doesn't bring them to you try starting another thread.

Good-Luck

 

Weimkl....Tampa here. What are you wanting to do to your "L"? I am assuming your stock now. Let me know...there are alot of bolt owners around here.

 

That scared look is probly from the prospect that they might get a scratch.

 

What I am wanting to do right now is get 400+ rwhp. But I know in the future I will want more out of my truck so I want to go about this in a manner that I wount have to redo anything. There are so many things out there I have no idea what to start with. please help

Kevin
)01 L

 

OH my... YES! Drive down to REM, tell Paul you want a 4# (or 5#) lower and a dyno tune.

You'll easily walk any non Zo6 vette next time (your at the track )

Rich

 

REM is that here in tampa. If so do they have a link, or do you have directions

Kevin

 

Kevin,
I've got the following mods on my truck and I made 403 RWHP / 518 RWTQ in 90+ degree heat last May.

* JLP 5# lower pulley
* JLP custom Predator tune
* LFP (Bassani) hi-flow catpipes
* MAC catback
* Single blade TB
* Denso IT-20s
* 104 octane gas

I haven't taken it to the track since May, but I was running solid 13.20s while making 372 RWHP / 455 RWTQ with just a 2# lower and a Hypertech PowerTune. I'm guessing that the truck is in the 12.80s-12.90s now. Maybe even better, with some good air.

 

Kevin,
REM is located in Margate, FL ... close to where I grew up. It is about 3 1/2 hour drive from us here in Tampa. Here is their link www.razorsedgemotorsports.com There are a couple of places here locally that can help you out as well. Look at my signature pic and my mods. My street tune is making just over 400/500....race tune makes alittle more on 100 octane. Let me know if you need some help.

Sam over at Coastal Dyno in Bradon does my tuning....very knowlegable. www.coastaldyno.com

 

I ride with a whole crew of F-bodys,SS's,WS6's, Z28's and about three Ls1 vettes

my truck has 404/505 to the wheels on 93 octane done by Panhandel performance

make no mistake those cars are still very fast and with a few bolt ons and they hang with if not beat my L on a few occasions

from a start to about 60-90 is where you have the best chance
past that # and they will reel you in like your standing still

My buddy has a bolt on Head/Cam drop top vette and i pull him 2-3 out the hole and by 100-115 he has me by 2-3 and he traps like 112-114 in the 1/4 VS my 106-108

if your stock dont try (stock traps between 100-103)
if your modded you stand a good chance
and with that new Magnum im about to order will see if i cant trap some higher #'s up top
hopefully 110-112

revenge is mine in a few weeks
HA HA

 

Not trying to start anything here, but since when did heads and cams become bolt-ons? I raced some guy in a black LS1 SS Camaro and he beat the crap out of my truck. It was so bad, I thought he sprayed me with a big shot of gas (which he denied having).

We pulled up in a parking lot down the street to chat and he gives me this "I've just got bolt-ons" crap while his car is loping so hard it's almost changing spaces in the parking lot. I always thought bolt-ons pertained to NOS, headers, intakes, carbs, injectors, pullies, tires,...etc. Once you started pulling the motor apart, it's no longer considered a bolt-on.

I was pulling low 13's with my truck at the time, so I figure this guy had to be running low 11's, maybe even 10s. That was one mean "bolt-on" Camaro.

 

LS1 car engines and Ford modular engines are totally different
they remind me of an old 5.0 stang(slide a cam in 20 mins,head swap 5 hrs tops)
1 of my friends swapped his heads and cam in one night in his garage with minor tools and a tourqe wrench and two guys.

so yes i would call that a "bolt on" anything that can be done by the average mechanicly inclined person with basic shop tools in a day or night

i couldn't imagine doing a head and cam swap on my L in one,two or even three days for that matter