Ok, here goes.
·What are cam (Camber) bolts?
Large eccentric washers attached to a bolt.

·What are they for?
To adjust your Front wheel Camber.

·What is Camber?
The side-to-side tilt, your wheel has from the top.

·Why doesn’t the factory put them in?
The obvious reason is to save money. But the end use may change. To many variables.

·Why do it?
Your front-end alignment changes for many reasons Tire size, ride height, load, worn bushings and parts. It is also safer and easier to steer and drive a vehicle that is set up for your application. Tire wear is better also.

·Where do they go?
The top two bolts that your “A” frame pivots from.

·What tools do I need?
One 13/16 socket, One 13/16 box wrench or the equivalent. One floor jack, Two safety stands.

·How long would it take a beginner to do?
Less than two hours. (side one 1 hour 15 min, side two 15 min)

·Procedure?
Use a well lit safe level work area and use normal safety precautions at all times.

Jack up the front of your truck and install safety stands so front wheels are off the ground.
Remove front wheels and tires.
Place floor jack under brake rotor on driver’s side. Just lift until you see the “A “ frame barely move up.
Now go to the top right corner bolt and remove the nut completely. Under the nut you will see the factory shim or spacer. It is color coded. Mine was orange. Grab the frame and move it around and you will find the shim (spacer) come right off. I was able to remove the bolt with my fingers.
Take the new cam bolt and insert the same direction as the old one was so the nut goes to the outside. Add the separate cam washer and finally the nut. I installed the big part of the cams facing down. It will all make sense when you start doing it. You will see the tab that the old shim was against in the rear. Except now you have two contact points. One on each side. It gives you the variable adjustment and is twice as strong (maybe). I don’t know the torque spec on the nut but make sure it is “GOODENTIGHT” 3 grunts works for me.

·Now do the top left one the same way except the bolt is reversed and nut is to the front.

·Basically that’s about it and if you chicken out or change your mind you can easily put it back to stock .

·Here is a personal twist that I do. I take the factory shim spacer and put it back under the nut and rotate the other side of the bolt until it is home tight where the factory put it and then tighten the nut. I only do this on the upper rear which adjusts the castor angle.

·What is castor?
Castor is the front to rear angle off center of your wheel to the pivot point of the suspension. It gives you the tracking effect that you like going down the road and self centers the wheel. Better high speed stability and steers straight when you take your hands off the wheel on a flat level road. (look MOM no hands)

·I use the top front to straighten up my wheel and eliminate the tendency our tires have of wearing on the inside. But the stock shim will work if you don’t like experiment like me.

·Sorry I didn’t take pictures but there was enough frame grease on me that I wouldn’t have touched a new camera (not yet) anyway. So Get off your butt and just do the job and quit procrastinating.

·While I was at it I cleaned and waxed the inside of my wheels hoping to ease the brake dust removal later since my wheels are new and clean anyway.

·Now take your truck for alignment and you saved $40 for the install and have a better understanding of what the guy is talking about. Or…. I will cover shade tree alignment in a later post.

· Ford cam bolt #F65Z-3B236-BB four needed
· Ford cam washer #F65Z-3C178-AA four needed

· Please feel free to make comments or suggestions to correct my errors or make this job safer or easier.
Thanks and Enjoy
Greg

 

never mind.

Just read on my friends.

 

OK Greg I'm lost,
Your doing this to your Brand New Lightning Why ?

I understand what you did, and what it does,
but why do this on your Brand New L ?
WHAT IS THE ADVANTAGE ?

 

I helped out and fixed the Title... Makes it much easier when searching later ...

Doug

 

Hey Doug thanks!
I will edit or delet that other thing.

Rob:
The advantage is I am being pro active on a normal maint. item rather than waiting to see my tires wear before doing something.

I also installed the clunk washers, PCV kit and changed my oil early for the same reason.

Hi, my name is Greg and I am a **** Lightning owner!

Might as well include this in the thread so its handy in the future.


Lightning specs:
L.H. Caster: 6.9, +/- 1.0 Deg.
R.H. Caster: 7.4, +/- 1.0 Deg.
L.H. Camber: -0.5, +/- 0.7 Deg.
R.H. Camber: -0.5, +/- 0.7 Deg.
L.H. Toe: -0.05, +/- 0.15
R.H. Toe: -0.05, +/- 0.15

Lightning Owner preferred:
LH Caster 6.7
RH Caster 7.2
LH Camber -0.5
RH Camber -0.5
LH Toe -0.05 (slight toe in)
RH Toe -0.05 (same)

Base F150: (tolerances same as above)
L.H. Caster: 6.2
R.H. Caster: 6.7
L.H. Camber: -0.3
R.H. Camber: -0.3
L.H. Toe: 0.03
R.H. Toe: 0.03

Ford Alignment spec:
L.H. Caster: 6.9, +/- 1.0 Deg.
R.H. Caster: 7.4, +/- 1.0 Deg.
L.H. Camber: -0.5, +/- 0.7 Deg.
R.H. Camber: -0.5, +/- 0.7 Deg.
L.H. Toe: -0.05, +/- 0.15
R.H. Toe: -0.05, +/- 0.15

Lightning Owner autocross preferred specs:
LH Camber -0.7
RH Camber -0.7
LH Toe OUT 0.05
RH Toe OUT 0.05

 

I'm a Lucky one, 2-1/2 years and my Front Tires are wearing perfect,
with no sign of un-even wear

Now my rears seem to have a problem though

Good Looking Out G.............

 

Greg:

I will install 2" lift springs tomorrow on my 2000 2wd F150 s-cab. Will the Ford cam bolt/washers work?

Thanks,

jeff

 

I don't know what other options you have??????

By that I mean ford not you. You couldn't possibly want to mess with shims.

Actually as I think on it your lifting. Most of the L guys are lowering.

I think lifting might work out better camber wise.

 

EZ-

Where did those alignment specs come from?

Thanks!

Gov