Coming up to my first change. Went to dealer and was quoted $12 for the Motorcraft 820S (CND funds). Do any L owner's know of any other sources selling them in Canada ....Walmart's in Canada don't..at least in Alberta?

Frank

 

Mobil 1 synthetic 5w 30 and motorcraft filters. Every 3000 to
3500 miles.

 

I'm a big believer in synthetic motor oil, and have used Mobil 1, Royal Purple, and right now I've got Red Line in the crankcase. Any of the big name synthetics will do a great job, IMO.
John H

 

Mobil 1 0W-20 and Mobil 1 filter. I use it cause it's easy to get around here.

 

Based on the number of people posting that they use it, Mobil 1 seems to be the favorite. But, the 2000 Lightning owner's manual makes no mention of the word "synthetic" and my 2003 Lightning owner's manual says "synthetic blend".....

Let's see, here; since Ford has to replace it if it breaks and they can specify what ever they want, they say synthetic blend. I have a good friend who is deeply involved with Porsche Racing. Send a race engine into Porsche North America and get it rebuilt and it will be dyno'd and returmed to you with straight mineral based oil in it.

I took Ford's word for it and am running a synthetic blend, but with the Mobil 1 filter. A earlier discussion on this board about filters convinced me to toss the Frams in the trash.

 

I use this as well...

Note its not just the oil you use..its the time between changes...I never go over 5000K before I change it at the dealer...They do check everything else and catch problems before they get to bad...And they put it all in writing for me...Ford can't say I did something wrong and I never had a issue with them over warranty because they did the servicing....

But 5w20 is the oil to use...

 

But synthetic is also factory fill on Porsches. Not exactly a clear message from Stuttgart.

 

Yes, Tim, that's true. But the why's are something I really did not want to get into on a public forum. I do accept e-mails through F-150 online, so if you're curious, I'll happily take the discussion private.

 

Motorcraft semi-synth 5w-20 and K+N filter. Seems the flow is a bit better with the K+N over the Motorcraft 820s (it's just fine too) and engine seems to be a touch quieter. I did post a oil analysis on bobistheoilguy.com, look in used oil analysis section, search on lightning. CUL

 

Seems pretty clear that to break in an engine you can't use full synthetic.

Old air cooled racers will swear by a straight 30W for better bearing life and heat transfer on oil to air coolers.

I think most of todays engineers would say pick a good quality oil and stick with it.

Every brand has its own charcteristics and additives and this will be absorbed into the pores of your engine metal to come out later durring thermal cycles.

It is best not to risk a possible conflict between ingredients and as I have said before none of the screw on cartridge filters work 100% of the time.

In addition to the backflow check valve which we don't need in our vertical application there is a bypass valve that dumps to make sure the bearings aren't starved durring moments of high flow or heavy viscosity.
"Peace"

 

I thought I saw on one of these threads where it said that the Fram oil filter is not that great because of the material that was used, could somebody clarify this.

 

Mobil 1, 0W-20 and K+N filter.

JS

 

I've always used a straight weight oil in my muscle cars in the back in the day because, the lifters seem to hold the prime better then muti-weights. Also was confirmed by a few friends that raced alot but, with synthetics no adays their are pros and cons. Some would say it finds leaks easier, some would say it coats everything and causes build-up and plugs the journels in time, that would make sense it, being plastic characteristics. I guess the engine rebuilders have the real poop on this being they see old engines alot,as said it's been blah blah blahed alot !

 

Royal Purple 5W-30 with K&N Gold series filter here