My Belt Tensioner is SHOT!
I can now remove my S/C belt by hand, no tools needed!
The bottom of the sc snout has a nice coating of rubber from the belt slipping

So obviously the Spring hs warn out. Anyone ever change their Belt Tensioner? How big a job is it?

Also, I haven't a clue how much these thing would cost, anyone? anyone? Bueller? Anyone?


HELP.

Lastly, what size belt does a JLP 3# pulley take again? I bought one a while ago when I got the pulley, but forgot the size.

 

Doesn't look like much of a job. You might not even need to get a new one.

Just move your intercooler resevoir out of the way. (Doubt you need to even drain it?)

You might find that it just got in a bind and you can clean it up and be ok.

That 1/2 square hole by the roller is for putting your 1/2 drive breaker bar into for relieving tension. Take off that whole idler assembly and see how it works.

I had to buy one for a Dodge Diesel last year and I think it was $150 for the whole assembly if that gives you any idea.

We will help you if you keep us posted on your progress.
I know you can do this.

 

Mark, I posted a reply to your pm on MILOC board...

The tensioer is your problem...Before you replace the belt look at it for these obvious signs of wear…

1. Glazed over spots (caused by belt slippage)
2. Gummy looking soft areas (caused by oil and grease on the belt)
3. Cracked or broken splines on the belt (caused by dry rot and old age)

Also as far as spending the extra cash for the gator back belt IMHO I would say by the gates belt if you need. The gates are a stiffer belt and more durable.

1. Move the tank out of the way like was mentioned earlier 9mm
2. Use a ½ in breaker bar to release the tensioner
3. Remove the tensioner 3 bolts 10 mm
4. Clean the area where the tensioner goes install the new one with a little anti-size on the threads
5. Replace the belt
6. Put the tank back on

If you want I would be happy to do the job for you at my shop?
I also have the idler bearings you asked for.
The tensioner my cost is 50 or 55 bucks let me know what you want to do or if I can help.

Suavy

 

Boy you can't beat Sauvy's deal there WIK.

If memory serves me right there are only 3 8mm or 10mm bolts holding the whole thing on. It's a no brainer to change.
Also I agree about the gatorback belts. Despite the popularity they are not the best to be using. Go with a smooth one as it'll have more friction and not have as much potential to slip.

Rich

 

Suavy,

If you can get that tensioner this week I'll head over next weekend and have a mini-wrenchfest.

I wasn't going to get a "gatorback" belt, I was thinking of a similar belt with that ribbing but from a diesel shop, they are about 1/2 the price of the gator belt.

With the spring in that tensioner, I wasn't sure how much of a PITA it would be to install.

Next weekend:
1. new Idler pulley bearings (all 3)
2. New tensioner
3. New Belt
4. New Fuel Filter
5. Run Toluene through the fuel system to clean everything out.
6. Re-check my U bolts on the rear end (haven't checked them since I put the JLP bars on)
7. Drag race up and down your street!!!!

Let me know if you are going to be home ane what time I should head over.


Rich,
what do you think about bigger idler pullies to wrap the belt around the s/c pulley more. I think Josh has some installed on his truck? They are kinda pricey, do you think they are worth it?

Also, Right now I'm running a 50/50 mix through the intercooler, I heard some people running straight water in the summer. What do you think?

 

Mark,

Could this explain your last times at the track?

 

I don't want to make excuses, I was running like ***** but I think this may have had something to do with it.

If you look at WYDOPNTHRTL video, you'll see him Launch off the line like he was rearended by a gravel train, while I don't. I knew it was over by the first 60' when he was gone, I was like WTF happened to my power.

That may explain the 2.1-2.3 60' times I was getting all day.

That was a bad day for for me all around.

 

I agree with lose bolt, I had the same problem at Milan. It took me about a week to figure it out but when I did i got an honest 18 lb of boost out of it.
From the body shop my boost gage was not hooked back up so I was going by the stock gage. (I saw Boost)

Replaced my tensioner and hooked my boost gage back up and big boost baby! I would hold off on the metco for now, you are not runing real hig boost and I feel you will be happy with the new belt and tensioner! I'll even let you buy me a beer when you find out I'm right!
Wrench fest at my place a week from this sunday, I get up at 9am so any time after that. I'll spark up the grill if you all want. I posted it on MILOC board will see who comes.

Suavy