I did a without much luck...

Should I try using the small nut in the middle or just not bother with that one and use the large nut? I want to prevent being "probleminfected"

Also, what sizes are these nuts?

Thanks!

 

Good luck... and they will not help you with it. I would advise that once you get it off, go with another pulley manufacturer.

 

not sure on the sytles issue you have... I have helped take several of "vendor Xs" pullies off..here is the secret, weld an elcheapo socket onto the pulley, and use a big frickin breaker bar..

take a pic of your pulley and post it, so we can see which type you have.

 

Here is a pic of a pulley like mine on the JDM website.

 

01Lightning here you go bud...

1. Install stop strap on converter so engine wont turn over

2. Remove SC belt.

3. Remove cage bolts ( 3 arms )

4. Do not attemp to remove the 3/4" center bolt yet

5. Using a 2 3/4" socket ( a large pipe wrench will suffice ) turn the gold 2 3/3" hub clockwise to remove. ( reverse threads )

6. Everything but spindle should now be removed.

7. Install pipe wrench on spindle shaft not the 3/4" hex. Also turn clockwise for reverse thread removal.

Remeber a little elbo grease is required because these units get tighter under hard on/ off throttle.

JimIII

 

Thanks for the great tips, JimIII! Hopefully my pulley will not be off the truck for long.

 

Am I the only one who laffed at that one

 

A pipe wrench is required to remove the pulley? And you
recommend that method?

01Lightning, after you get that P.O.S. off, go with the Metco.
Using the pipe wrench will screw up the shaft and possibly not
run true anymore.

Three allen screws that go on and off in a snap and 6 allen
screws that are on the interchangeable part ...

 

KY,


I do recommend this method it is the way we do it here. We have had no problems removing the caged style pulleys. No damage has ever been done to a pulley or truck when we do it. Using the tools and methods correctly you can get those same results. Using the tools or method of removal incorrectly will cause damage.


JimIII

 

Hopefully others see this as a lesson of where to purchase from.

 

What are you trying to bring to the table here??


JimIII

 

Step 8: Call Big James:

 

Cliff,

We have over 6000 of these pullies out there and from what I have counted over the past year there is no more than 8 people having problems getting them off. Its you and people like 93 cobra that jump in on the same exact thread ever time. We have 23 10 sec truck running this pulley and over 2000 trucks running in the 11's with it, also countless 12 sec trucks. This design might be alittle more difficult for some home mechanics to rmove and yes I do recommend a new spindle when taken off. We have been selling an uncaged pulley for about a year now and in that year we sold 1100 uncaged to 2300 caged. Trust me when I tell you most people on here dont listen to people like you or 93 cobra. They see you on threads like this all the time and they dont take anything you say seriously.

Jim@JDM

 

Come on Jim, admit it already. The reason why you are selling a cageless pulley now is because none of your old "theories" were true, that and the fact that your caged design was flawed to begin with.

Let us not forget when the caged pulley first came out from JDM, you had to get it done at their shop, then a few months later you could be sent/loaned a "jig" that held your cage down for pulley removal, but you werent done there, you had to shave .025 off the hub of the cage for the JDM bearing to fit correctly, this was while using your stock spindle, then when they came out with their own spindle/cage, the spindle was soft metal and "ALL" pullies were seized on the spindle. Not to mention that JDM recommended you to use threadlocker on the spindle, only making matters worse.

Its a **** poor design and it was the one thing that I hated having on my Lightning back when I had it, my H/D uses an uncaged design and it works great.

stating facts, not rumors.

Later...

Bruce

 

No more than 8 with the 'new' design? How many had to purchase the new design after the 'old design' failed? Why still mess with the caged design anyway? Seems like more of a PITA for you AND your customers to continue the caged design. Less cost to produce, less failure, less replacement, etc. or do you really like getting calls from steaming mad individuals?

23 - 10 second trucks, over 2000 in the 11's, countless in the 12's... Totally irrelevant to the discussion.

If you promote the caged design over the cageless, of course you'll sell more caged units. DUH Love the $25 "Optional Toolkit" tactic too. CLASSIC!

Whether or not people choose to listen to your vast knowledge or someone else's opinion is up to them. Most threads regarding lower pulleys are asking for OPINIONS anyway. Just too bad they all don't align with yours.

Try and spin it any way you want. Three allen screws win over a pipewrench anyday.