alignment issues
Originally posted by builtfordfast
Cam bolts(OEM).....F65Z-3B236-BB
Cams.....................F65Z-3C1788-AA
Cam bolts(OEM).....F65Z-3B236-BB
Cams.....................F65Z-3C1788-AA
Cam bolts(OEM).....F65Z-3B236-BB
has anybody used this kit, or should i go with the ford parts?
http://www.lightningforceperformance...productID=1146
Originally posted by Harley#356
i only have 2 and all the alignment specs are right on. i stood
there and watched the entire time so i know he wasn't just BSing
me either
i only have 2 and all the alignment specs are right on. i stood
there and watched the entire time so i know he wasn't just BSing
me either
not possible to do it correctly with only two. But I don't
doubt that they told you that. I would appreciate Skelton's
view on this also.
I'm not arguing with you, just trying to understand HOW
you can move ONE corner of a FIXED triangle and not screw
something else up (Caster? Toe?)
for the slight bit the alignment was out after the 1" drop, it worked fine. Ayrton had the same setup on his 02 HD as well. I was there when the guy did the alignment, and saw all the measurements as he was doing them, and everything came out to spec. Had the drop for about 8K miles now, tire wear is still nice and even, and the truck doesn't pull to either side.
hard to explain what i'm thinking in words on here, but if the rear upper A-arm has a cam bolt, and with the 1" drop i get a little negative camber...rotate that cam bolt out so it pushes the upper A-arm out to correct the camber. although since its pushing the rear arm out slightly more than the front upper A-arm, i would end up with a little bit of toe in. adjust the tierods to correct the toe (i think i'm using the right term there???) that would put it all back into specs for camber and toe if i'm picturing this right and explaining it how i'm thinking it
Not getting into an arguement here....just a technical discussion w/ ya's
always willing to learn more new things
hard to explain what i'm thinking in words on here, but if the rear upper A-arm has a cam bolt, and with the 1" drop i get a little negative camber...rotate that cam bolt out so it pushes the upper A-arm out to correct the camber. although since its pushing the rear arm out slightly more than the front upper A-arm, i would end up with a little bit of toe in. adjust the tierods to correct the toe (i think i'm using the right term there???) that would put it all back into specs for camber and toe if i'm picturing this right and explaining it how i'm thinking it

Not getting into an arguement here....just a technical discussion w/ ya's


