1) spark plug with a shorter ground. Which one should the *Joe average* racetested customer be using daily?
A) We recommend a resistorless plug but these are getting harder to find. There is enough electromagnetic protection throughout the rest of the ignition system to not worry about a resistor in the plugs. Otherwise we just recommend a shorter ground strap as you mentioned using NGK standard plugs or some people like iridium as they last longer and don't require as much from the ignition to spark fully.

2) A valve that reduces intake psi in place of a bigger shot. What valve, and where do I mount it?
A) I use a Hallman boost controller that just takes the factory boost bypass out of the equation by replacing it with no side effects. It's a mechanical boost controller than can be upgraded to be adjusted in the cabin. I can give more details if needed but it's an easy install with no major modifications. I'm not sure how tight the area is where the factory boost bypass is on the L though?

3) Larger capacity fuel system. Does *Joe avgage* lightning owner need to upgrade pumps and injectors? (at what level of power?)
A) Any vehicle will need an uprated fuel pump evetually with more power. An easy test with our nitrous system is to shut off the nitrous bottle so you only get fuel. Put the right fuel jet in that you will be using and run the output line into a container. Activate the fuel solenoid at idle for 10 seconds where fuel is sufficient with no load. Then do the same test at WOT during a run. If the fuel in the conatiner is the same then you have adequate fuel for your needs. If not then you need a bigger pump. A fuel pressure gauge will help also to make sure there is no drop. Bigger injectors are not needed with a wet nitrous kit as the needed fuel is supplied through the fuel solenoid.

4) Running the line from the trucks bed and in the engine compartment. Where specifically is best in each area.
A) The best area is where it's the coolest and shortest. The nice thing about the nylon is it's only 5mm O.D. and can be run with ease. To many people over the years just run the braided line under the vehicle where the hot exhaust system is. Far from optimal.

5) Bottle warmers. ??
A) We don't offer one yet as we don't like the current offerings and will be a while till we do have one. We are trying to eliminate the clutter like the other ones and we are not fans of bottle heating anyway. When you heat the bottle you are heating the nitrous and taking away it's density. We prefer nitrogen boosting which is the best option but not ideal for street cars on the road yet. This is a work in progress for now.

6) A complete kit (including specific tune on the chip) with full instructions. I WANT ONE!
A) We have the nitrous kit covered. The tuners will have to cover the chip issue.

 

Fuel puddling and a rich mixture don't cause backfires. LEAN conditions do!! Liquid fuel does not ignite anyway, vapor does. Any vapor left behind by the nitrous system will be quickly picked up by the incoming air behind it. Puddling is not an issue like people have been taught. If puddling is an issue with some intake designs then just add more fuel to compensate for a less than adequate A/F.

 

My friend had a 87 gt 5.0 with a 125shot "nitrous works wet kit" he forgot to open his bottle before a run and had the nitrous armed all the way down the track. When he got to the pits he realized the valve on the bottle wasnt open . he opened the bottle and went right to the staging lanes. he sprayed it right off the line and blew the intake off and both head gaskits. This is why I'm afraid of puddling a wet system. If it wasnt because of puddling what could have happened???????

 

It's internal to the blower and operated by a computer controlled vacuume actuator.

(Sorry for my ignorance on this. I just have no experience with this sort of thing) Could we just use a valve that relieves psi when *we* want? Like at the track only? My understanding is that the stock boost by pass is actuated under different circumstances for different reasons. Not just excessive pressure situations.


I live in Mi and run in cold weather sometimes. So.. your set up will work at temps like 45F ?

Thanks for the input Denny, Rich

 

My only concern with the nylon lines is trying to pass tech at NHRA/IHRA tracks. The rule book is very specific about all non-OEM fuel lines being metallic or steel braided, and all nitrous system lines being high pressure steel braided.

 

WOOOOOO, then thats a major issue,
Bro you telling me they ain't gonna let me through tech with
these lines ??? They were like hawks at Cecil for Spring Nationals......

 

:cough cough: They could always have the *appearance* of a SS line.

Rich

 

i was thinking that same exact thing. I'm kinda wondering how that would affect the heating and cooling properties of the nylon lines, but aside from that, head to your local plumbing store and grab some sink hoses, or maybe they even sell the outer sheathing by itself. Can't be altogether too hard.

 

I happen to be the "Director of Commercial Plumbing",
for NY's largest Plumbing Supply,
I sell those and tons of other SS hoses for sinks, toilets, washing machines, etc....

See nothing to worry about Rob....

 

OH YA
BTW Some I sell are Nylon "Stainless Steel look-a-likes"...WOO HOO. The smallest I'll have is 3/8 OD, then 1/2 OD, then larger for Washing Machines.

Oh well there goes 49.00 in Red Blue and Black Wire Loom
I bought last night (!#$!(#$!($#($%$)%!()#@!(#!#$#!$

The NEW Nitorus Line running to the rear (bottle) will be covered in Black (like mine is now) that runs OUTSIDE the chassis
all the way from the front of the Truck, into the rear drivers side wheel well @15ft total I guess. (I bought 20ft of Black) That can't be scene and I drilled holes all along the way originally to wire tie it all up tight, away from everything, I like it covered in Black for protection and not to advertise whats under the hood.

Then I was actually thinking about mounting the Solenoids
either INSIDE the JLP Box, "or" on the outside, "upfront".
Either way, it'll def be the coldest loaction.
Those Lines are Red and Blue, so I figured I'd pick up 10ft of each and see if it looked good covering the Nylon Lines,
"and or" all the wiring to and from the Solenoids.

I guess I'll see as it goes, I was really digging the purple too,
and I got 8 lines covered just for my Multi Spark Ignition in it, then other ground and power lines.


It'll look like the 60's under there on 4way sunshine by the time I'm done

 

bad00,
Puddling can only aggravate a backfire it can't cause it, a backfire
can only be caused by what's happening inside the combustion chamber not
what's happening inside the manifold. Your friend must have had misfiring and other problems that had nothing to do directly with fuel in the manifold. I'm not sure how your friend did the whole 1/4 and didn't notice a huge drop in performance from all the extra fuel and didn't get off the throttle? That's another story.

Rob e-mailed me and I sent solutions for the nylon nitrous line issue and the rules. Hopefully he will share them as I don't feel like typing it all out again. I'm sure the rules were designed a long time ago and the officials didn't want people showing up with home-made supply line substitutes. I can assure you our lines our very durable and have a working pressure of 1750 psi and a burst of 4,000 psi. Not your typical nylon line that people mistake them for in the pneumatic industry. Trev has started working with the tracks in the U.K. and eventually we'll have to do the same here and plead our case.

Worst case scenerio is we use a braided supply line and the other adapter to connect to the solenoids. Easy enough for us to do but it hurts performance for the customer. Nylon under the hood is fine as you'll see with our IHRA customer in our gallery.

 

It was his first time spraying, 2nd time it blew, after that he went with a supercharger LOL!!

 

In the past and currently nitrous takes work to make sure everything is working properly so you don't damage things. Once a turbo or s/c is set-up you can pretty much turn the key and not worry unless something breaks. With nitrous you need to check things each time you use it. Trev is currently working on new products and I have a few ideas of my own that will hopefully make nitrous as easy as turning on the key and going also. Then you just need to worry about refills.

 

You always have a test mule with me BRO
I officially changed my name from Nitrous Ronbo,
to
THE WIZARD OF NOS