This is probably one of the most interesting "new" products since the ported eaton. Thanks for being the front runner Rob. I'm sure you'll keep us posted with more than enough info as this goes on...good luck

 

Sounds a little like the Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind I used to run on a Mustang in the mid 90's.

Dyno comparison would be cool. It will be interesting to see the power and torque curves for each.

 

Rob, you make sure to call me when and where thats gonna happen I wanna be there to see that beast.



Josh

 

wouldn't you want to drive over to Sal's on your current kit........dyno, then put the new kit on and dyno....i mean for a true comparison??? Plus you can get Sal to help you install it

 

Why not keep the zex kit on when you install the racetested kit so you can dyno and track test them both back to back, at the same jetting of course.

Could you explain why it is you dont have to purge the racetested kit?

 

I can't remember the explanation, but rob doenst purge the zex kit either from what i know.

 

he's right you know

Bad Habit

They explain it well here

1/2 way down the page
Nylon Lines vs. Braided SS

http://www.racetested.com/rt/technic...36424fe1#nylon

 

I'm not doubting that this is a great product but, can we stop getting our selves wet talking about technology that has already been invented and implemented (i.e. progressive nitrous controllers)? Can we focus more on the things that race tested does that the other companies do not?

Thanks!

--Steele

 

After reading racetested's reasoning for not "needing" a purge..... well I honestly don't agree with them, but whatever, it is their kit and they can do things the way they want to do them.

I will look forward to your results.

 

Your right Steele, progressive control over the systems have been around forever, my buddy had a multi stage set up over 20 yrs ago. What drew me over to Race Tested was the fact it was very affordable with the Minimax.

If you saw the original post where we all met Denny and Race Tested, I think it's their Solenoids, construction of them, and material used that sets them apart from everyone else,
and I love the thought of a lifetime wrrnty on the Solenoids. This a key selling feature of their systems.

As for the Nylon lines vs Steel Bad Habit, I can't say I'm convinced 100% yet either, "BUT" as grinomyte said, I don't have a purge on my Zex System anyway, so smaller lines WILL help for the NON PURGES like myself. Race Tested says it helps enough to actually not need a Purge, (and since I never use one)
it just makes sence that this system was the one for me
And hey, why wouldn't they want to add money to the sale and sell you a Purge, unless it didn't need it ??
I do leave pressurized Nitrous in my lines for sometimes up to
many hours in the heat of the pit's before making my runs after getting to a track, so this talk about less problem due to that, and more liguid Nitrous being delivered smoother, interest me and my set up VERY MUCH

Only time will tell, BUT I THINK I'M GONNA REALLY LIKE THIS

 

If I miss any questions I'll try and get to them later.

1) A progressive system will not show peak torque figures on a dyno as you may only be at 50% power delivery by the time your engine reaches peak torque. A progressive sytem is designed to get you down the track faster and deliver more power smoother and safer. Please contact me to bypass the progressive unit for max dyno numbers.

2) No worries Sal as I have been busy myself, so whenever is fine.

3) The nylon "doesn't" need purging because our nylon line for applications 150 bhp and under is a small bore which doesn't house a ton of vapor like the braided line. -4AN braided line that comes with all the other kits can deliver at least 300 bhp. It doesn't take a genius to realize that this line is way to big for most applications. There is also a lot of excess nitrous just sitting in the line and vaporizing on smaller hp applications. On the outlet side, the other kits have a fixed length of line to the injector. This slows down the deliver and power again as the lines are way to long. Nylon can be cut to exact length and deliver the most power possible. Rob didn't purge his Zex kit and I guarantee this cost him the best E.T.'s.

4) The Minimax is a very basic but effective progressive unit. The Maximiser has a ton more features for fine tuning and controlling severe traction issue cars using a given amount of power. A few examples. a) You can electronically "delay" the nitrous system altogether if you spin with non-nitrous power already. b) The higher the power needs the more severe the initial lean out condition from nitrous getting to the motor faster. The Maximiser can richen the fuel side only during pulsing and delay the nitrous solenoid only until the fuel catches up. c) you have a 2 stage power feature that lets you jump up in power or down in power when the time set is reached, instead of a linear progression usually. d) the list goes on.

5) YES progressive units have been around for a while, but nobody makes them as user friendly or advanced as Highpower. Plus nobody in the world makes solenoids that are designed to be pulsed. Which means the others won't hold up to our Lifetime warranty and are not matched to be in sync with another when pulsing. We also have the most efficient flow path which is like no other also.

6) Rob hit the nail on the head. We don't sell solenoid rebuild kits and our 150i kit doesn't need a purge to add to cost. When we come up with more features or additions we also design them as an upgrade so people don't need a whole new part or system. The initial extra cost for our systems is justified with import taxes, a terrible conversion rate, and more to make our systems. Not needing a purge kits saves money over others and our service will pay back the extra cost ten fold.

7) I did inquire about being a supporting vendor but have not heard back yet.

 

Denny, do you have any info yet on my question about a portition of the fuel being collected on the IC? I suppose your controler can accomidate this by adding some fuel?

Rich

 

Rich,
Your question is not an easy one to answer as I don't have an L to test with. Theoretically the fuel should be atomized and starting to vaporize enough to not worry about to much liquid and droplets. This could be one of those issues where on small power requirements the fuel that "may" separate is not a big deal but like anything, the problem can multiple with higher demand/power and then this is a problem. All I can do is have Rob and the tuners check the plugs for even distribution. If a problem seems to be present then the best option fuel wise is to use propane as it's not a liquid fuel source and will pass right through the I/C. The drawbacks are having another bottle to refill, keep pressurized, and worst is an external fuel source in the back of the bed. Nothing is perfect and it's up to the user to see what is their best option.

 

OK thanks Denny,

Having spent a little time researching this I'll be looking fwd to your "as tested" outcome on the following. As soon as I do, I'll place an order.
(assuming *Joe average* 1999+ lightning owner having the following power increasing modifications:
a stock long block; typical bolt on's like aftercat exhaust, CAI kit, blower pulleys pushing about 14psi daily driven, and a mail order chip)


1) spark plug with a shorter ground. Which one should the *Joe average* racetested customer be using daily?

2) A valve that reduces intake psi in place of a bigger shot. What valve, and where do I mount it?

3) Larger capacity fuel system. Does *Joe avgage* lightning owner need to upgrade pumps and injectors? (at what level of power?)

4) Running the line from the trucks bed and in the engine compartment. Where specifically is best in each area.

5) Bottle warmers. ??

6) A complete kit (including specific tune on the chip) with full instructions. I WANT ONE!


No need to answer anything today. But these are the things I'm still in the dark about and will be watching for.

Regards, Rich

 

I like my purge for one reason.. the other day at the track I opened the bottle and the presure went right up to 900 I turned on the bottle heater and got it up to 990-1000psi. After my burnout i purged the system and all i was getting was air. So i shut the truck off and swithch my chip to the all motor program. After i got back to the pits i armed the nitrous and purged it again and got a split secound of nitrous and then more air and the presure dropped to like 600. I think i got a bad fill. IF I didnt purge, I would have sprayed it and it would have puddled and most likely blew the intake off.