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Brake Job "How to" and Ceramix vs Hawk

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Old May 4, 2004 | 03:23 PM
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95 Saleen S351's Avatar
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Brake Job "How to" and Ceramix vs Hawk

Well I think it's time to do a brake job. The squeal indicators have not activated, but the truck is shuddering a bit under braking. I have never done a brake job before, so does anyone know if anyone has assembled a "How To" online for the Lightning?

I believe I will need to get the rotors machined due to the vibrations.

What is the final consensus from those who have used the ceramix pads? I have read lots of positives (low dust, low noise) and some negatives (don't stop as well, damage the rotors due to excessive heat). What say you?
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 04:49 PM
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info on hawk pads

I have the hawk super duty pads. There are some pros and cons that go along with these pads. Pro: they stop better than the stock pads. Pro: Dust is a little bit better with the hawk pads. CONS: The squeel like a big yellow school bus, sometimes louder. Just a little insite before you buy. These pads are really noisy, but i think if you upgrade to a more performance pad they will be noisy.
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 05:03 PM
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F150 rotors are turned on the truck ... So you need
to find a shop that can do that....
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 05:39 PM
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I just put my second set of ceramix on the front today (And I use them on the rear brakes as well, but have a line lock). They don't stop as well when they are cold, but when they heat up a bit they are just fine. When they are cold it is that the pedal is a little heavier if you jam on the brakes. Normal driving I haven't noticed a difference.

I had no damage to my rotors.
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 05:53 PM
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Originally posted by SVT_KY
F150 rotors are turned on the truck ... So you need
to find a shop that can do that....

What? Mine were taken off to get turned.
I have a pic of it on my website, but the server is being moved right now.

Who told you that they had to be turned on the truck?
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 07:05 PM
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i think ford actually turns them on the truck because generally on f150's if your rotors are original and have been on for more than a few thousand miles they are on there, and nothing is going to take em off short of a sawzall. They are however removable particularily if you have them greased on install. Also if you take the time and literally soak the rotor in wd-40 for a day or so i've heard of people gettin em off without too much trouble, its a task though.

not sure if this is necessarily the same for 250/lightning rotors.
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 07:19 PM
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Originally posted by grinomyte
i think ford actually turns them on the truck because generally on f150's if your rotors are original and have been on for more than a few thousand miles they are on there, and nothing is going to take em off short of a sawzall. They are however removable particularily if you have them greased on install. Also if you take the time and literally soak the rotor in wd-40 for a day or so i've heard of people gettin em off without too much trouble, its a task though.

not sure if this is necessarily the same for 250/lightning rotors.

We must be talking about different things.. I wish my website was up so i could post pics of the rotor on the machine.

remove caliper/pads
take off the dust/grease cap & remove cotter pin
take nut off, pull rotor toward you & remove outer bearing.
push rotor back on, put nut back on, pull rotor completely off leaving inner bearing on spindle.

put rotor on machine & resurface.
reverse instructions to reinstall

(i may have left out some steps because i was just watching my friend do the work)


what are you talking about?
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 07:20 PM
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grinomyte, While their on the truck?greased on install?
literally soak the rotor in wd-40 for a day? What??
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 07:28 PM
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what clonetek said. On car lathes are usually faster than the traditional lathes thus why they are becoming more and more widespread. On cars are esp usefull on 4x4's where the hub is attached to the rotor (i.e. toyota 4x4's, suv's) with those rotors you would spend more time trying to get the rotor of than if you just hooked up and on-car lathe to it.

just my .02

Will
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 07:29 PM
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yes yes and yes. I know many people that have ended up using a sawzall to remove their rotors off f150's. Like i said i don't know about f250/lightning rotors.

On an f150 i have taking a 15 lb sledge to a rotor and that ****er didnt budge for crap.

And yes i believe ford has a machine that turns rotors while they remain on the vehicle. Now if you don't have that your option of course is to pull the rotor off and have it turned in a shop, which isn't a problem, if you can get the rotor off.

I also don't know if this machine exists for f250/lightning rotors.

And yes if i bought a new heritage f150 today i would pull the rotors off and put antisieze on the contact surfaces for later.
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 08:19 PM
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I've got a 98 with 80000 miles and just pulled them off about a month ago, took like 30 mins, then an hour to have them turned
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 08:20 PM
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Learn something new everyday.
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 08:25 PM
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The F150's have the same basic parts!
spindle, rotor, bearings, calipers & pads!


I would love to see exactly what the people you know were working on with a sawsall..


Tell me exactly how they cut them off. Did the cut the spindle off?
Are you really sure you are talking about the same thing as us?


 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 08:27 PM
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yes im talking about rotors. That thing that the brake pads push to stop your vehicle. I'm not saying the designs aren't basically the same, i'm sure they are, but apparently you had an easy time taking your rotors off, as did dameon. I've had and heard horror stories about getting them off as well.

I'll find you a couple links.

http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewt...=rotors+siezed

check that one out. The guy 4 or 5 down is mark, hes a ford tech in KY. hes seen it plenty.

heres another
http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=164
 

Last edited by grinomyte; May 4, 2004 at 08:32 PM.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 08:33 PM
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edited.

Oh and you sawzall the rotor top to center and bottom to center without hitting the hub, then you should be able to sledge it off.
 

Last edited by grinomyte; May 4, 2004 at 08:37 PM.
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