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Brake Job "How to" and Ceramix vs Hawk

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Old May 4, 2004 | 08:47 PM
  #16  
clonetek's Avatar
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They are talking about 4X4 trucks.

"I ended up taking the hubs off with the rotors still stuck "
"had to replace the brakes on my 98 Eped 4x4. They had around 52K and were done. Rotors were shot, so I was going to replace
"

A totally different animal compared to the Lightning/F150 setup!

On a 2wd truck there's nothing for it to stick to!
Now if we were talking about 4x4 lightnings, we might be worried.
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 08:53 PM
  #17  
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I used a BFH, worked for me
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 09:05 PM
  #18  
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hmmm, thats a good point, the 15 lb sledge i did for a buddy who has a 4x4. I'll have to check around to see if any of the accounts i've heard is on 2wd vehicles.
 
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Old May 4, 2004 | 10:33 PM
  #19  
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From: Selden NY
I put the Ceramic on front and Back @ 600 - 700 miles ago,
now that my OTHER brake problem is fixed (bad Booster Check Valve) I so far love the Ceramic and haven't had to clean the rims
YET since I put them on .

As yysenhimer just said, they need a little heat in them to stop the best, but when there cold it's just a little more pressure needed, (nothing too bad, or worth not buying them over)
I give it two thumbs up so far

Got both the Front and Rear for under $90.00 too https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hlight=ceramic
 
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Old May 5, 2004 | 08:39 AM
  #20  
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Did my fronts about 5,000 miles ago, piece of cake (although I am having some trouble that I'll post later).

The rears I did a couple of weeks ago... 60,000 miles on the truck and those rears were tough to get off. I too used WD-40 and a hammer... guess I must have loaned out my sledge hammer so I used a regular one. I had to really hit it get them to budge... should have seen to look on my face when I realized I had drum brake too... my other four wheel disk vehicles wern't like that.
 
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Old May 5, 2004 | 09:50 AM
  #21  
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From: Warner Robins, Ga, CSA
What Brooks said............my front rotors came off very easy and were turned on a bench machine. Also agree that anti-seize(in the proper places) is a good idea.

My Ceramics have worked fine for the 23,600 miles they've been on now--both front and rear.

Dan
 
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Old May 5, 2004 | 12:55 PM
  #22  
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From: Lexington, KY
Originally posted by clonetek
What? Mine were taken off to get turned.
I have a pic of it on my website, but the server is being moved right now.

Who told you that they had to be turned on the truck?
FORD service manual ... and my FORD head tech ...
 
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Old May 5, 2004 | 01:22 PM
  #23  
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Originally posted by rickgig
should have seen to look on my face when I realized I had drum brake too... my other four wheel disk vehicles wern't like that.
that is your emergency brake

Will
 
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Old May 5, 2004 | 01:28 PM
  #24  
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From: Lexington, KY
Originally posted by rickgig
should have seen to look on my face when I realized I had drum brake too... my other four wheel disk vehicles wern't like that.
Oh I bet they were ... Emergency brakes are mandatory ...
 
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Old May 5, 2004 | 02:26 PM
  #25  
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Yep... I knew what it was... just never saw that approach before... My Taurus SHO wasn't that way...

Just surprised... that's all!
 
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Old May 5, 2004 | 05:56 PM
  #26  
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Originally posted by SVT_KY
FORD service manual ... and my FORD head tech ...

Do you take it to FORD to get everything done?
I bet that the FORD service manual & the FORD head tech say not to modify the truck too. Did you follow those FORD directions?



 
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Old May 5, 2004 | 06:02 PM
  #27  
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From: Lexington, KY
Originally posted by clonetek
Do you take it to FORD to get everything done?
I bet that the FORD service manual & the FORD head tech say not to modify the truck too. Did you follow those FORD directions?




Troublemaker .... < grin >

Nah, but I do listen to what the experienced guys tell me.

You going to WFC ????
 
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Old May 5, 2004 | 06:08 PM
  #28  
95 Saleen S351's Avatar
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From: SoCal
Anyone know of an online "brake how-to" yet? I have to fork over several hundred bux if I don't have to.
 
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Old May 5, 2004 | 06:17 PM
  #29  
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Originally posted by SVT_KY
Troublemaker .... < grin >

Nah, but I do listen to what the experienced guys tell me.

You going to WFC ????

Nope.. been laid off for too long. Hopefully I'll be hard at work by the time WFC comes around. :o
 
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Old May 5, 2004 | 06:19 PM
  #30  
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i don't know of any for your particular application, but it's pretty straight forward. Just do a search for the torx bit you need to remove the calipur, make sure to have a coat hanger ready to hang the calipur (don't let it hang by the cord) and clonetek gave a pretty good description of pulling the rotor.

Seriuosly the very first piece of auto work i ever did was a brake job, with no experience. It's a piece of cake.

Oh yeah make sure to lube your calipur slides and maybe someone here can tell you the torque spec.

Oh and you'll need something good to push the pistons in the calipur back in. I use a big vise clamp i have and a thin piece of wood. Others can push it in manually (I'm like 6'1" 150 lbs, so yeah . .. ) i can't. And grab some of that disc quiet stuff and spray it on the BACKSIDE of the brake pad, not the calipur rotor contact area.

Oh and never use an impact wrench (or let anyone else use an impact wrench) on your lugs to put em on, just to take em off. Use a torque wrench to put em on, it prevents your rotors from damage in the least.

I think that's pretty much it, hopefully someone will mention if i missed something.
 
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