Porting Eatons
Apten, some of the supporting vendors, one or two members on this board have done it theirselves and EasterIsland does a unique approach to it also. Basically port the holes bigger thus letting more air flow and its more efficient.
Pros: More Power, More Efficiency, More Supercharger Whine
Cons: Hmmm..can't think of any!
An awesome mod no doubt!
Pros: More Power, More Efficiency, More Supercharger Whine
Cons: Hmmm..can't think of any!
An awesome mod no doubt!
well it wouldn't be a bad idea. If possible at least get it to a dyno and check a/f ratio to make sure it's safe. If that's not possible I would get chip reburned to play it safe. I put mine on dyno and did before/after and a/f stayed basically the same. But others the a/f had changed. With the ported eaton mod I believe it tends to lean the a/f ratio out a bit but I think it varies from truck to truck on how much.
Inside View of Port

Before and After

chief40al
The results that everyone seems to agree on is this Mod
allows the stock Eaton to pull like a raped ape up into the higher RPM ranges, where it use to flatten out. We're seeing up to 2 lbs of free extra boost also, and Dyno's are showing the HP + Torque now pull to a much higher RPM than before. This Mod will def benefit the heavier Moded L's running the 1320, (extra Power in the higher RPM ranges where it use to start falling off). Some see results as high as 35-40 HP, some more, some less. Some saw 20 extra ft lbs of Torque, a few lost a little torque, some reported 3/10th's better ET's some reported nothing (thats hard to believe)
but all agree and the Dynos all seem to show higher more usable power, "most noticable in the Upper RPM's" But helpful in the lower as well. I kid you not when I say I get 10-12 lbs of Boost with as little as 1/4 -1/3 throttle, so when I stap it, you can imagine the Boost
the guage goes around into the Tach area pointing to @ 4500 RPM

Before and After

chief40al
The results that everyone seems to agree on is this Mod
allows the stock Eaton to pull like a raped ape up into the higher RPM ranges, where it use to flatten out. We're seeing up to 2 lbs of free extra boost also, and Dyno's are showing the HP + Torque now pull to a much higher RPM than before. This Mod will def benefit the heavier Moded L's running the 1320, (extra Power in the higher RPM ranges where it use to start falling off). Some see results as high as 35-40 HP, some more, some less. Some saw 20 extra ft lbs of Torque, a few lost a little torque, some reported 3/10th's better ET's some reported nothing (thats hard to believe)
but all agree and the Dynos all seem to show higher more usable power, "most noticable in the Upper RPM's" But helpful in the lower as well. I kid you not when I say I get 10-12 lbs of Boost with as little as 1/4 -1/3 throttle, so when I stap it, you can imagine the Boost

the guage goes around into the Tach area pointing to @ 4500 RPM
Last edited by Rob_02Lightning; Apr 3, 2004 at 12:27 AM.
Just to clarify, for those of you viewing the first Rob02 pic, the inside of the rotopac area is not machined.That has to be left alone for the tight tolorances in order for the rotopacs to "compress" the incoming air.Its the top inlet and exit openings (and additional added exit hole) that are machined and smoothed to give the needed airflow.Just wanted to clarify that.
Ya what Mondo1 Said
I should have mentioned that.
I show that pic because it shows you a good shot of the "New and Improved" opening
I should have mentioned that.
I show that pic because it shows you a good shot of the "New and Improved" opening
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from your pics rob, it's pretty clear that there's a lot of difference between your "apten copy" and the real thing. I don't mean to stirr up any trouble, but the only thing the same between yours and ours is the shape of the outlet. I see no significant intake work being done, and none of the radiuses that we do. That extra stuff does account for a noticable amount of extra power. Yes when you do some of that you have to reclearance the case, but we do that as well.
Brian
Brian
Last edited by Apten_Tech; Apr 4, 2004 at 01:37 PM.
Brian,
I believe that is why some are not happy with their power after porting. Not evey port job is the same. Sal has my chip and my dyno info working on a re-burn because I was so rich. . With an Apten ported Eaton, long tubes and just a four # lower I'm seeing 16 lbs. of boost at redline. Sal sent me an I/M last week saying my truck was making "fantastic power for as rich as it was" and only running a four lb. lower pulley. Looks like I will be around 435-440 H/P with only these few mods (I was at 428 with the A/F around 10.0 A/F). Sal thinks the long tubes may really make the porting shine even more than without. I think the extra money I spent with Apten was worth it. For me it was for sure!
Jerry
I believe that is why some are not happy with their power after porting. Not evey port job is the same. Sal has my chip and my dyno info working on a re-burn because I was so rich. . With an Apten ported Eaton, long tubes and just a four # lower I'm seeing 16 lbs. of boost at redline. Sal sent me an I/M last week saying my truck was making "fantastic power for as rich as it was" and only running a four lb. lower pulley. Looks like I will be around 435-440 H/P with only these few mods (I was at 428 with the A/F around 10.0 A/F). Sal thinks the long tubes may really make the porting shine even more than without. I think the extra money I spent with Apten was worth it. For me it was for sure!
Jerry
Originally posted by Apten_Tech
from your pics rob, it's pretty clear that there's a lot of difference between your "apten copy" and the real thing. I don't mean to stirr up any trouble, but the only thing the same between yours and ours is the shape of the outlet. I see no significant intake work being done, and none of the radiuses that we do. That extra stuff does account for a noticable amount of extra power. Yes when you do some of that you have to reclearance the case, but we do that as well.
Brian
from your pics rob, it's pretty clear that there's a lot of difference between your "apten copy" and the real thing. I don't mean to stirr up any trouble, but the only thing the same between yours and ours is the shape of the outlet. I see no significant intake work being done, and none of the radiuses that we do. That extra stuff does account for a noticable amount of extra power. Yes when you do some of that you have to reclearance the case, but we do that as well.
Brian
Originally posted by Apten_Tech
from your pics rob, it's pretty clear that there's a lot of difference between your "apten copy" and the real thing. I don't mean to stirr up any trouble, but the only thing the same between yours and ours is the shape of the outlet. I see no significant intake work being done, and none of the radiuses that we do. That extra stuff does account for a noticable amount of extra power. Yes when you do some of that you have to reclearance the case, but we do that as well.
Brian
from your pics rob, it's pretty clear that there's a lot of difference between your "apten copy" and the real thing. I don't mean to stirr up any trouble, but the only thing the same between yours and ours is the shape of the outlet. I see no significant intake work being done, and none of the radiuses that we do. That extra stuff does account for a noticable amount of extra power. Yes when you do some of that you have to reclearance the case, but we do that as well.
Brian
Brian, Just curious.When you mentioned "no significant intake work.." how can you even see the intake opening from the pics shown by rob?? Unless you are making that assumption from the 2 rear casting "humps" left untouched.Please clarify this
I can look at the photo showing the rear case bearings and see that his intake side is hardly touched (as I suspected from the beginning). It looks like nothing more than a polish job in that picture. The humps are where the intake is, but changing those is not what I am talking about. There is just a LOT of room for improvment in those photos, and that's a fair amount of work that has been passed over. Not only that, but the outlet work has room for improvment also. It appears that someone just cut out an outlet the shape of ours on a mill and didn't pay any attention to airflow or the radiuses. I can count and mark 12 spots visible in the first photo where there was not enough work done, or that ours is going to be more efficient.
As time goes on, hopefully people will start to see that there is a difference in port jobs on your supercharger, and reasons that one may cost more than another. I believe by the time summer rolls around the numbers will be coming in from the dynos and reflect it. I believe there's an active thread about low numbers in this forum right now from one of these home ported blowers.
If you want the cheapest port job, that's okay. But the cheapest is not going to net the same results as the best one out there, and if you put these two supercharger port jobs side by side on a controlled test... our Apten porting will outperform the one pictured in this thread every time.
the sad part about what is happening is that the end group of people that are loosing out is the consumer. They are being given this great promise by individuals and vendors to have Apten's performance and service for an even lower cost, and by the time they figure out that they got what they paid for, their blower is already ported and the check has cleared. We have repaired over $2000 worth of ported blowers that have been done by other sources where the customer ended up having to come to us in the end to make things right. I wouldn't be suprised if some customer testimonials come out here soon about this.
Brian
Last edited by Apten_Tech; Apr 5, 2004 at 01:12 AM.
several people have done it with a 6lb lower, but the tune needs to be conservative. Also know that you will see anywhere from 16-18psi in good air. A conservative approach would be to port and go to a 4lb lower.
Brian
Brian


