Battery Relocation - pics
Battery Relocation - pics
Hello,
To clean up the engine compartment and move some weight aft, I recently moved the battery underneath the bed. Some pics are in the gallery and here are some notes.
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...TOKEN=77627938
I started out with a Coleman Racing lightweight battery box. Here is a link.
http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=789
I welded a drilled/tapped 1/4" thick steel strip to the "hooks" on the box. The crossmember got drilled and the box bolted to it. I also added two straps to the bottom of the box which bolt to the crossmember to add stiffness.
For cable, used 00 cable and a big switch mounted to the inside channel of the frame just aft of the upper shock mount. I read some of the rules of SCCA and NHRA. I never was really convinced I needed the ACTUAL switch mounted on the body somewhere(anyone??). I plan to use an actuator rod from the switch back to the rear bumper. Up front, I just connected the cable to the factory terminal. Cable/conduit routing was done with a bunch of rubber lined clamps up along the frame rail.
Sorry about the pics. The paint on the battery box got plenty dinged up sliding around on my garage floor.
I do plan on adding a fuse to the + cable very close to the battery. With all that extra cable and risks of chafing of insulation, etc. I am worried about the whole thing being hard wired. I found some slo-blow 250A fuses that will work. That's the next mod.
Mucho credit goes to Tim Skelton and his web site(www.timskelton.com). Although I did something a bit different, the inspiration was from Tim's fly ride.
N-joy, Randy
To clean up the engine compartment and move some weight aft, I recently moved the battery underneath the bed. Some pics are in the gallery and here are some notes.
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...TOKEN=77627938
I started out with a Coleman Racing lightweight battery box. Here is a link.
http://www.colemanracing.com/section/index.htp?id=789
I welded a drilled/tapped 1/4" thick steel strip to the "hooks" on the box. The crossmember got drilled and the box bolted to it. I also added two straps to the bottom of the box which bolt to the crossmember to add stiffness.
For cable, used 00 cable and a big switch mounted to the inside channel of the frame just aft of the upper shock mount. I read some of the rules of SCCA and NHRA. I never was really convinced I needed the ACTUAL switch mounted on the body somewhere(anyone??). I plan to use an actuator rod from the switch back to the rear bumper. Up front, I just connected the cable to the factory terminal. Cable/conduit routing was done with a bunch of rubber lined clamps up along the frame rail.
Sorry about the pics. The paint on the battery box got plenty dinged up sliding around on my garage floor.
I do plan on adding a fuse to the + cable very close to the battery. With all that extra cable and risks of chafing of insulation, etc. I am worried about the whole thing being hard wired. I found some slo-blow 250A fuses that will work. That's the next mod.
Mucho credit goes to Tim Skelton and his web site(www.timskelton.com). Although I did something a bit different, the inspiration was from Tim's fly ride.
N-joy, Randy
Sorry about that, haven't quite figured out the picture things yet...how about this one...
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=3907
Yup, I do plan to move things around in the engine compartment. My plan is to fabricate a divided tank which will fit in the stock battery tray to hold I/C coolant (big) and windshield washer fluid (small, just enough for a few squirts). I have access to a machine shop until mid-May, I hope I can get to this project.
Have also toyed around with welding in an aluminum tube coil into the reservoir and plumb the return (low side) A/C hose through it. Although not NEARLY as efficient as putting the whole evaporator in it, the return can still be pretty cold.
Randy
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=3907
Yup, I do plan to move things around in the engine compartment. My plan is to fabricate a divided tank which will fit in the stock battery tray to hold I/C coolant (big) and windshield washer fluid (small, just enough for a few squirts). I have access to a machine shop until mid-May, I hope I can get to this project.
Have also toyed around with welding in an aluminum tube coil into the reservoir and plumb the return (low side) A/C hose through it. Although not NEARLY as efficient as putting the whole evaporator in it, the return can still be pretty cold.
Randy
Re: Battery Relocation - pics
Originally posted by desertL2001
. . . I read some of the rules of SCCA and NHRA. I never was really convinced I needed the ACTUAL switch mounted on the body somewhere(anyone??). I plan to use an actuator rod from the switch back to the rear bumper. . . .
. . . I read some of the rules of SCCA and NHRA. I never was really convinced I needed the ACTUAL switch mounted on the body somewhere(anyone??). I plan to use an actuator rod from the switch back to the rear bumper. . . .
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Neal, that is awesome! I can see that you mounted it directly to the frame. Where does the exhaust run our your truck (not a stock L exhaust I presume)? I seem to remember having to attach mine to the the crossmember because of exhaust clearance.
EDIT......just figured it out. L's have the staggered shock setup, and the pass/ side shock points forward.
Randy
EDIT......just figured it out. L's have the staggered shock setup, and the pass/ side shock points forward.
Randy
Last edited by desertL2001; Mar 9, 2004 at 10:35 AM.




