Coil Pack Bolt
Coil Pack Bolt
The broken coilpack bolt issue that keeps coming up is such a pain considering what a tiny bolt it is.
Has anyone got a good reason why we can't just take them out and put them in a pill bottle and throw them in the junk drawer of your tool box?
Why not replace them little buggers with a stud and use a nylock nut to hold them in place?
Or for you guys that are bling crazy you could use a chrome accorn nut, or a allen bolt.
It is bad enough that I tremble everytime I open my rollaway and see that 5 1/2 inch spark plug socket. Now it happens when I look at my 7MM 12 point swivel. I feel like I am in the Dentist office waiting room.
Are we a bunch of STUD'S or are we not?
Has anyone got a good reason why we can't just take them out and put them in a pill bottle and throw them in the junk drawer of your tool box?
Why not replace them little buggers with a stud and use a nylock nut to hold them in place?
Or for you guys that are bling crazy you could use a chrome accorn nut, or a allen bolt.
It is bad enough that I tremble everytime I open my rollaway and see that 5 1/2 inch spark plug socket. Now it happens when I look at my 7MM 12 point swivel. I feel like I am in the Dentist office waiting room.
Are we a bunch of STUD'S or are we not?
I agree completly.
The issue seems to be with removal regardless of who orginaly put them in.
I understand that if you don't overtorque them that they will be easier to remove the next time but I have noticed over the years when you have two different metals (aluminum manifold & steel bolt) they get married and don't want to seperate sometimes. Murphy's law says that it will always be the one that is hardest to get to.
You could always put a little never seize on them but by using the stud idea you won't have to worry about it again. Less wear and tear on the femaly threads also.
What if you want to do a plug check after a run and the manifold is warm? It expands at a fast rate than the steel bolt which might grip it tighter.
The plugs probably weren't designed to spit ether, but they sometimes do!!!
Oh well, just and idea, trying to make a contribution for those having problems.
The issue seems to be with removal regardless of who orginaly put them in.
I understand that if you don't overtorque them that they will be easier to remove the next time but I have noticed over the years when you have two different metals (aluminum manifold & steel bolt) they get married and don't want to seperate sometimes. Murphy's law says that it will always be the one that is hardest to get to.
You could always put a little never seize on them but by using the stud idea you won't have to worry about it again. Less wear and tear on the femaly threads also.
What if you want to do a plug check after a run and the manifold is warm? It expands at a fast rate than the steel bolt which might grip it tighter.
The plugs probably weren't designed to spit ether, but they sometimes do!!!
Oh well, just and idea, trying to make a contribution for those having problems.
Originally posted by wydopnthrtl
I know, and thanks. I was just trying to ruffle some
feathers. LOL..
The gold coating on the bolt should help to prevent any
bonding between the two. That's why we spec it.
Rich
I know, and thanks. I was just trying to ruffle some
feathers. LOL..
The gold coating on the bolt should help to prevent any
bonding between the two. That's why we spec it.
Rich
on the threads. <grin> Better ideas are possible.....
a. Zip tie the *****.
b. Have a "swing" clip that holds it down.
c. Run without it ...
I like EZGZ's approach. The nylon nut sounds tempting! I've had the coil pack screws in/out a couple times. After reading some threads about them busting off, I started in with the anti-seize.
Maybe we can get ARP to custome make us some aircraft quality coil pack retaining nuts
Randy
Maybe we can get ARP to custome make us some aircraft quality coil pack retaining nuts
Randy



Rich