So the question still remains. Are pre-outs available from the factory head unit. I said head..huh..huhhuh..unit.

 

No.

 

What size were the speakers? 5x7's? 6x8's? Not exactly sure what fits in the stock locations

 

Didn't think so. By the way mark. Did you see the new one?

You were right. No 03 dsg's left in STL. Wound up in IL. Thanks, you inspired me. Sorry I had to copy.

 

You are the 3rd DSG I know now. They other guy is in Maryland Heights. We are doing a little mod party on Sunday if you want to hang out - drop me an email through the board.

-Mark

 

5x7's and most 6x8's should fit fine. 6 1/2's fit pretty easy with a mounting plate. If you want a no thought solution, stick with the 5x7's.

-Mark

 

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, SOMEONE PLEASE EXPLAIN HOW THE LOW-LEVEL SIGNAL IS ROUTED TO THE AMP

 

Easy enough Tim, but that will be $300.00 an hour with a $1000.00 retainer fee.

Okay, all kidding aside. Some amps have the capability to accept high level inputs (speaker wires) and it's just a matter of routing speaker wire from the deck to the amp and then running speaker wire from the amp to the speakers. The tricky part is getting a remote power signal from the deck to the amp. I can't remember if the Lightning factory radio has a remote lead or a power antenna lead. If so, then you just run either one to the amp to turn the amp on. Some amps will even have signal sensing built into them so that it will turn on when it recognizes a signal from the speaker leads of the deck.

Now, if you go with an amp that has no high level inputs, then you can purchase an aftermarket adapter (PEI makes a nice one as does Navone Enginering). The speaker level leads from the deck go to the adapter and the adapter has RCA outputs that go to the amp. Again, you will need to hook up a remote power lead to turn the amp on when the factory deck is turned on. You don't want to wire up a constant power wire to the remote lead of the amp, as this will cause the amp to be on 24/7 and eventually drain your battery. Some of the adapters have remote wire capability built into them or you can purchase an adapter that will accomplish this if the deck isn't equiped with a remote lead or power antenna lead.

Both these methods will offer pretty good sound, but it will introduce a little more noise than if you went with an aftermarket deck and ran RCA cables to the amp. Majority of people won't even notice it, and it is definitely a nice upgrade from the factory set up. Add some quality speakers in the front locations and your choice of sub(s) and you will have one very nice sounding Lightning. Okay, that should about do it, and I think it took me about 15 minutes to cover it. That will be $300/4= $75.00 plus $1000.00 retainer equals $1075.00. How would you like to pay for it? I do accept Pay Pal or a cashiers check. No personal checks.

 

Under the carpeting of course

 

I am going to have to say I am happy with my factory system. It is alot better than the stock one in my old, f-150. If i were to change it I would add 2 eight inch subs behind the seats.

 

If you are doing it in phases, the front speakers are the first to go ...

Polk components and IT SOUNDS GREAT ...

 

The company work truck I drive is a 2000 powerstroke with AM/FM radio. The low mid sounds so much richer than my L even over the engine rattle. It is heatbraking after working in it all day listening to the radio and then getting into the L and turning on my CD. I would rather here the plain exhaust and whine.

I thought it might be because the powerstroke doesn't have power windows and they put a bigger speaker in the doors and the door itself is bigger and makes a better box.

Whatever it is I would be happy to have that level of enjoyment in the L. Can someone splain how to get to that point? In simple terms.

Just front speakers? (what kind)
Do I really need to add the AMP?

 

If you actually read my post you will see that I said LOW LEVEL OF THE AMP. That means the low level inputs on the amp. Low level inputs on an amp are not ment to take high level input signals. The speaker output on the factory system is HIGH LEVEL. You are right though amps that are made to take speaker level inputs will not need a line level converter.

 

I'm always right and it's tough sometime to be this perfect. I keep trying day by day to make mistakes so I better fit in..

 

Im not sure what kind of power the factory HU has but if you get aftermarket speakers i would recomend to at least get an aftermarkget HU. You could try dynamat or brown bread insulation products around the factory speaker sto help with midbass response. Not sure how well it would work with a factory system though. Otherwise just head to a stereo shop and start listen to some speaker, amp, headunit combinations. Everyone has favorites on brands, just depends on what sounds good to you.