I know alot of US know how, but I have recieved many e-mails
on it, and like alot of you, I GIVE BACK TO THE COMMUNITY
anywhere I can help. Some don't know, and I promised them I would help, so here it is.

PLEASE CORRECT ME, add Pic's , sugestions, tricks, etc...

You need:

Screw Driver to remove Clamps holding Rubber Boot
from Throttle Body to MAF. I left my Maf attached the the JLP box and only removed the rubber boot.
(of course remove the 3 lines attached to the boot)

3/8" drive rachet, extention and 10MM socket to remove the Throttle Body and Gas Pedal Bracket.

1/4" drive rachet, universal, extention and 8mm socket to remove the manifold bolts.

3/8" drive rachet, universal, extention and 13mm regular AND DEEP socket to remove S/C Bolts.
(deep socket needed for 4 bolts, they have a thread off the bolt head w/ a nut that holds a bracket)
AND THATS IT

NOTES:
The back super charger bolt ON BOTH sides is a bitch, but you can and will get to them.

On the pass side I found the deep socket straight onto the rachet is the easiest.

On the Drivers side a simple Rachet Extention Universal and 13 MM Deep Socket will work fine.

The back Manifold bolts are also bitchy and quite tiny, you'll sneak in there with a 1/4" Rachet Extention Universal and 8mm socket.

Pass Side
There's a couple of vacum lines you pull off the back lower part of the S/C, NOTE WHERE THEY GO

Also a coule of Larger Hoses you'll pull of the back upper part of S/C, AGAIN NOTE WHERE THEY GO

I found pulling a few electrical plugs helped getting some wires out of the way too.

Drivers Side
You have the PCV line to pull off the Upper Manifold (where everyone puts a Seperator)

Also another hose to pull off (has two wires coming out of it), thats toward the front upper part

The IAC Plug must be pulled (Idle Adjustment Control)

The TPS Plug must be pulled (Throttle Position Sensor), thats on the Throttle Body

It's pretty straight foward, no hidden tricks, just 4 bolts holding the throttle body,

1 holding the gas pedal bracket,

6 holding the Manifold,

4 nuts holding brackets on the S/C,

and then the 8 bolts holding the Eaton on

As for Torque Spec's ""IT MUST BE DONE IN TWO STAGES""

Torque the S/C to 18 ** lbs (I stand corrected, THANKS DAN)
Then 33 Ft lbs
EDIT
The Sequence is from the middle out criss crossing the usual way (there's a total of 8 bolts)

You criss cross the middle 4 first (2 ea side) then jump to the front 2 (1 ea side), then the rear 2 (1 ea side).

THANKS FOR THE PIC GATOR
EDITED PICTURE

BTW Gator if I screwed something up by torquing to 18 LB's instead of what is should be
--> 18 Inch, I HOPE YOU HAVE A GOOD LAWYER hehehehehehehehehe.........

Rather than repeat ever bolt, hose, wire, line, etc...
I'll now give basic steps

EDIT
Thanks Slick
Here's a link for when I did mine, piece of cake job
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...leaning+iac%2A


Step one, Off with the Throttle Body
(old Pic)


Step two, Off with the Manifold



EDIT
Yes that Pass Side Rear Bolt is a bitch, excellent point EZ, the trick does seem to be taken it off AND ON with it dangling

EDIT

 

Step three, Time to attack the two nuts on each side to get bracket out of way to expose the S/C bolts to be removed

 

Step four, now that the brackets are out of your way,
simply remove the S/C bolts



Step five, Lift up and remove the S/C
NOW WASN'T THAT EASY, heheheheh
YOUR DONE

 

Great post rob, Much nicer then trying to read my shop manual DVD

 

The stains on mine are from BEFORE I installed the
Lightning Enterprise PCV fix

Look at this close up and you'll notice it was dry dry dry....
Mine was so clean at 12K, I didn't even touch it


Clean if needed, like I said, I didn't
Put it back together


Here's my Wasp


The only reason I got to see the inside of mine is cause
I swapped Rotors

 

good info!

 

Like I said, Wes does AMAZING WORK
I love the results, you've all heard me boast about the gains
UNBELIVABLE DIFF

This pic, is BEFORE I swapped rotors


Had the inlet of the S/C ported too


Here's some great Links with more pic's from others
and some good info

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...5&pagenumber=1

Here's a step by step and INSTRUCTIONS on it
http://www.azloc.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=774

 

Great stuff Rob. I'll definitely be using this when I change my blower, if I ever find a case to get ported that is. I know this mod will surely put me in the 400/500 club if I'm not there already.

The Mart Mans says

 

Rob02...

Nice post man, but the torque sequences for the supercharger are incorrect. Step 1 is 18 IN.-lbs. and step 2 is the 33 FT.-lbs. This came directly out of the Ford Service Manual that I have... I've converted the section to a Word doc if anyone would like to host it (hint, hint Doug) and I've also got a list of part numbers for most of the nuts, bolts and gaskets invovled with a supercharger swap (which I have to credit to the folks over at AZLOC).

This may also come in handy...

Supercharger Removal and Installation

Dan

 

Great post Rob I'm saving this one into my favorites! Thank You

 

18 inch pound-force = 1.5 foot pound-force

Thats just threading it then pretty much.

 

18 IN.-lbs. is straight out of the Ford manual...I thought it was incorrect also but that's what they've printed in manuals from two years that I have seen.

 

I cleaned mine two days ago and it was as bad as that picture of clonteks he has shown on here before. THe only trouble i has was reinstalling the back bolt on the passenger side. I found when cleaning pouring acetone on the intercooler pulled the oil right off.

 

Good post Rob
But lets not take for granted DISCONNECT BATTERY AND REMOVE S/C BELT FIRST . I know these are obvious but he you never know good post
Also you didn't have to clean the I/C (did you ever) I think it is only a couple more bolts and 2 hoses
Also what time frame did it take you 2-3 hrs
Thanks
Slick

 

Thanks Ronbo, you are the best. I have everything i should need now to install the Magnum Powers Tues and then do an immediate Dyno. I even went ahead and got the supercharger and intercooler gaskets just in case (some haven't replaced them but if they are in bad shape, well....... See ya at the track sometime this year.