I believe I read a post that stated that the Apten ported Eaton will add roughly 35 rwhp. There was also a post about the Icee chiller box the other day where JimJr had emailed the designer of the chiller box and was told that the temps went from 155 to 60 and gained about 40 rwhp (Thread is below).

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=144069

*Is it possible to get 65-75 rwhp without a chip/predator & pulley?
*Would the stock PCM be able to compensate for the extra flow and cooler temps?
*Would these mods significantly increase the risk of breaking a rod?

Allthough it would probably be more economical to get a chip/predator & pulley, with the temps and humidity here in South Texas I really like the idea of the chiller box.

I'm interested in your opinions and comments....so what do you think?

Thanks,
Todd

 

I think that would yield about 25-30 RWHP with no other mods. I have not seen dyno numbers on a stock truck with a ported blower.............. The chiller will make for a denser charge which means more HP. The stock PCM can easily keep up with a ported blower and chiller with fuel requirements.

I... guess.... you would be looking at 375-380 RWP



Steele is doing his own Blower Porting soon plus he will port others and remove and reinstall it for ....free during Mod get togethers at his house.....I will help

The only catch is you have to clean the intercooler yourself.

 

Son of a... Hmm I wonder how long of a drive it would be from Ottawa Canada to Texas

 

he wont do it for free...he will charge the standard shop fee of a case of beer

ALSO I like how NO ONE SHOWED UP LAST SUNDAY FOR THE WEEKLY HOOTERS MEETING. Of course I did, sat there BY MYSELF and ate some wings, and drank some beer waiting on one of you deuchebags to show up. Are you guys going to show up this time? Lets have that mod porting party this Sunday if the weather permits.

 

Here is a copy of a tech article I did for another website. I dont care what Icee Chiller says, our stock intercoolers are not effeicent enough to reduce intake temps to 60 degrees. Circulating water that is 45-50 degrees thru the intercooler, I saw intake temps of 95+ degrees, unless you circulate 20 degree alcohol thru the intercooler, I dont see how you could get temps down to 60 degrees. Here is the info I wrote and Datalogged:






Well Like the subject states, this is a easy and very worthwhile mod. I see guys all the time bragging about larger heat exchangers but nobody has provided proof of gains. The General rule is for every 10 degrees you can drop intake temps, expect 1% more power. If you look at my dyno graphs you will see that this is true. If you have a flip chip or way to tune your truck expect even bigger gains. What Ive done is nothing new, I simply took something that has been used on race cars for years and applied it to our trucks.My brother has a NMRA Outlaw car and after the car was built I decided to apply the same thing to my truck. This Modification took me less than 2 hours to install and the results were peak gains of 21RWHP 28RWTQ, minimiun gains of 12RWHP 14RWTQ and a average gain of 17RWHP 20FTTQ. Here are the dyno graphs,

Base Dyno on truck with a 30 minute cooldown coming off the street
http://home.comcast.net/~redracer145...1/site1014.jpg


Dyno Run with 16lbs of ice in cell and only a 12 minute cooldown after 1st run




Dyno run with water drained, 8lbs ice added and only a 8 minute cooldown. There was prolly the same amount of ice as 2nd pull. The difference is on the 2nd run ice chips were clogging the feed line, on 3rd run I put my hand in front off pickup so only water went thru and not be plugged by ice chips.



This is Dyno Number 1 and Dyno number 3 overlapped



While Ive listed actual gains on my truck, here are the actual drops in air charge after the intercooler. On the 1st run my intake temps peaked at 134 Degrees, 2nd run intake temps peaked at 99 degrees and on 3rd run peaked at 97 Degrees. At the time of the Dyno the temps were 78 Degrees, 33% Humidity, 28.77 Baro and a SAE Correction factor of 1.03. The inlet temps on these 3 runs was 81 degrees, All intake temps were taken with Ford Scan Tool from IAT1 & IAT2. The timing on my reflashed Computer showed a max Timing of 17 Degrees and a/f ratio of 13:1 at 3600 dipping to 12:1 from 4300 up to redline. Being that my intake temps had dropped, if I had a way to tune I could have added a several degrees of timing, leaned it out a bit and results would have been better. The Modifications my 2002 Lightning has are 6lb Lower Pulley, Electric Fan, 01 GT Water Pump, Borla Catback, 12 Inch K&N Conical filter and the above mentioned Cooler. At the race track Ive run 12.8@107 on stock tires with a 1.95 60ft. I think Ive given you guys all the technical data I can, now I will show you pictures and give you a list of parts needed for this little project.


1- Fuel Cell- I chose a Nice Aluminium Fuel Cell from www.summitracing.com it cost me $100 shipped to my door. Either the Black cell or the Non Painted will work, I chose the Aluminium because I wanted to have the ability to add up to 3 bags of ice on very hot days. http://static.summitracing.com/globa...m-290200pc.jpg

2- 25 foot 5/8" Hose, Steel Braided would be best but for cost options I chose regular Black hose from Home Depot. The hose I used was the stuff you use to feed water into your washing machine. It cost about $1.25/FT

3- 1/2" drain Valve, I also got this at home depot $6

4- 6-10 5/8" Hose clamps, I found these to be more expensive at Home Depot than there were at Napa. Cost was around $3 for all the clamps I needed.

The pictures will pretty much will explain everything, you could prolly mount the cell better than I did but I didnt want to drill or cut into my bed. What I do is drain the cell only leaving about 1 inch of water in the cell. When you do this be careful not to drain lower than the highest point in the system. If you drain too much water your going to have a air bubble in the system and the pump wont work. The best thing to do would be raise the fuel cell about 6-12", I didnt do it yet because Im trying to figure a way to not have to drill new holes in my bed. I also altered the direction that the water flows thru the system, if you dont do this you might have different results. The stock intercooler system has water going directly into the intercooler after the heat exchanger, this works best on the street. Doing this mod you want the water to go from your cell directly into the intercooler, if it goes thru the heat exchanger your going to heat the water before it actually goes into the intercooler. What I do is before each run I put 16lbs of ice into the Cell, I also pull the relay on the intercooler pump because I dont want the ice water to remove heat while Im in the staging lanes and approaching the line. A few cars before Im next to run, I jump out of the truck and put the relay back in, even if your intercooler core has got hot, it will cool off by the time you do your burnout and approach to starting line. After the run I still have 50% of the ice and I can either make a 2nd run or drain water and add 1/2 the ice. I usually just head back to the staging lanes, pull the relay and make a 2nd run. So long as Im not in 95 Degree sun, the remaining ice wont melt and my 2nd run is only a little slower.

Fuel Cell in Bed

Fuel Cell in Bed 2

Fuel cell in bed 3

Under Hood

Under hood 2

Cab & Bed Joint

Valve Picture

Valve Picture 2

Intercooler Picture

Thanks for reading and see you at the Track

 

Yeah, let me just pull my CNC machine out of my *** and dust it off.

This reminds me of the time you told mikes entire shop that I was going to take them out to lunch -- and then you left before I got there.

Suck it!

--Steele

 

.........Steele, .come on lets pull your blower ..I'll port it for ya at my house.. don't be skerred, I got skills !!

Alans buying as usual Sunday!!!


and he's gay.

 

yeah, im buying as usual cause im the only *******ing person who ever shows up. clay, im gonna come over and kick your ***, steal your plane(you know i know how to fly), and crash it into nathans rice burner. that should about cover all the bases.

 

Man, I forgot how much being in the 14 second club makes you so irritable. Wait a minute, I was never in that club. Never mind.



--Steele

 

uhhhh....STOCK HERE minus the fastari! no 6lb with an agressive chip and trac bars w/ slicks you tard. plus, im not at the PARK GETTING OWNED right now....im drinking beer, working on my truck. your out smelling daises. you pansy.

 

http://www.nloc.net/forum/showthread...threadid=24290


I get yelled at everytime I bring this thread up...

But it is a EFFICENT AND CHEAP ALTERNATIVE TO LOWERING YOUR INTERCOOLER TERMPERATURE.

When someone says the intake lines are dripping condensation, you know the damn thing is working

 

Thanks for the great info BigFan & I-menace! After seeing the way my truck performed in 40 degree weather, lowering the intake temp really peaked my interest.

Thanks Again,
Todd

 

What a deal!



Hey I've got a come-a-long and a tow strap...will that help?

 

Yeah, I ran a 13.8 stock -- cry me a river!

Tell me Alan... Whats it like to wake up next to the same chick every morning?

Yes, that was a "my current girlfriend is hotter than your wife joke".

OWNED!

--Steele

 

uh huh. "current" to you is about a day and a half. and sorry, but i dont dig the kind of chicks that go through men like you every two days. yikes

i may wake up next to the same girl every morning, but at least im not having to guess where she came from, and i know for a fact what she looked like the night before(vs. the morning)!

OWN3D!