Okay I need to get some cams for my truck. What parts do I need?
Cams
springs
do I need retainers, seals, guides, cams, anything else?

How hard is the install while on the engine?

I was looking at comp cams #102700 with their springs#26113

 

You are going to need Cams, cam sprockets, washers and bolts to hold the sprocket on, and the springs.

Send me an email if you would like more info.


Link to CompCams Modular "kit"

As far as how hard to do inside the truck, the cams would not be bad but may be a pain to do the valve springs.


BTW: They are the cams and springs in my truck and I love how it sounds and runs!!!!!!

 

When you say three stages
stage 1= #102500
stage 2= #102600
stage 3 = #102700

I talked to a comp cams tech guy and he said the stage 3 is very extreme and that the valves may not have enough clearance...


What about valve guides and seals?

 

anything more than a .550 lift and you will have coil bind on the stock valve springs and need to change them out. Also be careful if your dealing with a stock bottom end, your adding more stress on the top end with a higher duration.

 

When we do a head job (replace the valves) we replace the seals. You do not need to replace the guides.

As far as the cams, Yes I have the 102700 and they run great!!!! They are a 550 lift cam. No clearance problems.

 

I like the Crower Stage 2's they have 581 lift and 216* duration at 50 they use the stock 114 lobe center and work well in our trucks. They have a nice bumpity idle out of gear but work good with a stock converter. As far as strain on the stock lowers the way I under stand it is cyl pressure is the real killer of our engines leading to pinging and other problems more duration and a better flowing exhaust should only help to lower the cyl pressure, when you get away fron the 114 lobe base line like some other cam makers you can get into pressure problems. I purchased mine from JDM in there cam kit I had priced around and they had the best price for what you get (2 cams 2 sprockets & bolts 2 spacers 16 springs and 16 titanum retainers) you won't need to do any guide work at all but I do recomend going ahead and changing the valve seals while the springs are off (kinda a no brainer there LOL) You will need the ford type spring compressor if you plan to do it in the truck also to get the most out of the cams long tubes are a must.

 

Do not plan to change springs in the truck, while supposedly not impossible, you would have to prove it to me. Yes, I had the tool and am an experienced mechanic. Better to stay with a cam that does not require new springs unless you have the heads off. JDM Stage II does not have 114 LCA. There is no cam with too much duration for the L. The pistons are deeply dished and sit ~0.135" (forget exact amount) down in the hole.

The Stage III Comp cam is too much cam for stock rods. You will not be able to rev high enough (more than a few times) to reach power peak. Bigger cams take power from low rpm and give it back to you at higher rpm. If you can not rev to higher rpm or the motor does not breath well enough at the higher rpm, you have lost power in the trade. You need to be able to reach your power peak. Stock cam peaks at 4950 rpm, have not seen many dynos with cammed motors including JDM cam that peaks below 5700 rpm which is pushing it for stock rods.

If you go with Crower, stay with low lift series to avoid coil bind unless you change springs. You can go with 114 or 113 LC with the 113 favoring mid and higher rpm a bit more and 114 being more computer friendly and helps low end. Comp is OK at 0.550 lift, but suggest you go with their Stage I if you are keeping stock rods. Do not believe Comp 0.050" lift numbers, they HAVE to be measured at valve although I can not get anyone at Comp to confirm that. Crower costs more than Comp.

 

The JDM stage 2 cams are crower stage 2's if you go to Crowers web site and look at the specs you WILL see a 114 LC on the stage 2 cams. I dont mean to start a fuss but I just put a set in my truck IN the truck springs and all it can be done (it ain't no fun) but can be done.

 

No fuss, you obviously have more patience and smaller fingers than me, I had problems getting keepers back in even on the bench since tool was in the way. Can I presume that you pulled blower and manifold for more access to springs? Yes - I have been told by Sal and Shawn that it was possible, but barely. Neither recommend it. Wanted to make sure anyone doing this swap goes in with as much knowledge as possible, it is work and changing springs (however you do it) is a LOT of work and spring rates are not that different.

Crower specs are 114 LCA, JDM uses that grind, but adjusts LCA slightly.

 

Yes the tool could be desined better but if you take the front wheels off and the inner fenders out (4 screws and 5 push pins) on each side and use a pocket type magnet like on a mac screw starter it will take you about 3 hours to change the springs and retainers. Yes there was a point that I too wondered "Man I hope this $h!t is worth it" but trust me the idle lope of the stage 2 Crowers makes the 3 or so hours fade in your memory REAL fast and the low end power increase (where we need it most) is unreal. I kinda judge the worth of a mod on how much farther the rear tires spin after the mod well here goes, Stock: truck and a half chip: all the way through 1'st gear 4# pulley: 15-20' into second gear, now ready? JDM stage two cams and long tubes well all the way into third gear ====================

 

Can I use aftermarket heavier duty valve springs with the stock cams?

 

Must be a 4.6 mustang problem then

 

What about sprockets and shims and lash caps and bolts to hold the sprockets on? Do these vary between the different vendors? I don't see any info on these on the crower or competition cams website.

Are people using # F8AZ6256AA and F8AZ6256BA for the sprockets?

The crower stage III cams have more lift, but the comp cams have more duration for the exhaust stroke which should help get rid of the exhaust gas better...???

Looks like the crower springs more heavy duty than the comp cams springs. Is that correct?

 

It is harder to get camshaft/valvetrain info than it is to get a picture of a ported apten blower...

 

So from what I'm getting is that stage 2 is ok for our trucks? Will it make good power on a 6# lower? My order goes in next month and this is very important.