Just Installed Factory Tech Valve Body What An Improvement/
Originally posted by Rob_02Lightning
Tim Please explain,
Why would anyone want that god awful torque reduction ON ???
2 Chips, 10 Programs, 3 tuners, mine's been off for EVERYONE.
Tim Please explain,
Why would anyone want that god awful torque reduction ON ???
2 Chips, 10 Programs, 3 tuners, mine's been off for EVERYONE.
G. Evans "Factory Tech" recommends Line Pressure Stock,
Torque Reduction - ON if you are running a FTVB.
Greg E. also says aok to use stock tranny pan with the FTVB. Of course we all realize that a tranny pan that holds more fluid will help keep down temps which is a big deal in areas with hot climates.
Last edited by billarf; Jan 3, 2004 at 10:04 AM.
I wish I would have know all this BEFORE hand.
I HATE torque reduction, and DO NOT want it back on,
especially with Juice, I don't like the idea of "ANYTHING"
cutting off and on, especially 4 cylinders while Juicing
MINE'S STAYING OFF
I HATE torque reduction, and DO NOT want it back on,
especially with Juice, I don't like the idea of "ANYTHING"
cutting off and on, especially 4 cylinders while Juicing
MINE'S STAYING OFF
Originally posted by DarkShadow03
tim, would you reccomend the 4x4 pan as well? whats the main difference? its just more tranny fluid capacity, correct?
p.s. sorry if i stole your thread tlfwatch
tim, would you reccomend the 4x4 pan as well? whats the main difference? its just more tranny fluid capacity, correct?
p.s. sorry if i stole your thread tlfwatch
Last edited by Mart Man 03 L; Jan 3, 2004 at 11:50 AM.
Originally posted by Rob_02Lightning
Tim Please explain,
Why would anyone want that god awful torque reduction ON ???
2 Chips, 10 Programs, 3 tuners, mine's been off for EVERYONE.
Tim Please explain,
Why would anyone want that god awful torque reduction ON ???
2 Chips, 10 Programs, 3 tuners, mine's been off for EVERYONE.
The main reason is that if we recommend that you have it turned off and the tranny goes, it'll appear to be our fault. Mine is turned off also.
Tim
Originally posted by Chikenears
Rob,
The main reason is that if we recommend that you have it turned off and the tranny goes, it'll appear to be our fault. Mine is turned off also.
Tim
Rob,
The main reason is that if we recommend that you have it turned off and the tranny goes, it'll appear to be our fault. Mine is turned off also.
Tim
YA BABY, THATS WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT
PS
Don't worry,
I'll blame Vinnie if mine goes
I'd recommend the FTVB to anyone as the very first thing to do to a Lightning. It's my favorite mod so far. Of course, a supercharger upgrade is in my future. That might change my perspective a little.
A pan upgrade is cool, too.
A pan upgrade is cool, too.
I would concur with Odin - probably the best mod you can make for the buck for a "street fighter". And one of the easiest to install. I didn't do this first, but if I started all over again - it would be the first thing I'd do. I had almost forgotten what it was like to have an automatic shift: "bang", "bang", "bang" into gear - with the accompanying decrease in time. I haven't had an automatic shift like this since the late 50's when Chrysler introduced it's "Torqueflite" automatic transmission and I had a Plymouth with one.
And as long as I was crawling around underneath there, I also put a B & M pan on. Looks good and the extra fluid capacity and fins will keep the fluid a bit cooler in the summer.
And as long as I was crawling around underneath there, I also put a B & M pan on. Looks good and the extra fluid capacity and fins will keep the fluid a bit cooler in the summer.
If you have the torque reduction still 'ON', wouldn't there be more space between where the 1st gear blackmark ends, and the 2nd gear blackmark begins??? I personally like having one, nearly-continuous mark with just enough space to go back and show your buds, "Right there's where it shifted, see?"
Also, other than driving like you have an egg, a cotton ball, or one of your niblets between your foot and the gas pedal, is there any way to NOT bang the gear changes? My wife is giving me the evil-eye every time she rides with me now.......
Also, other than driving like you have an egg, a cotton ball, or one of your niblets between your foot and the gas pedal, is there any way to NOT bang the gear changes? My wife is giving me the evil-eye every time she rides with me now.......
i keep putting it off everytime i get the money to do it. After i get my current project done i will do the FTVB but im in the process of lowering the truck so i dont know if the bigger pan is gonna be safe for me.
I should go by Chickeneers house tomomorow(but its SUN)im in charlote again for the weekend and get that FTVB and the new Lightning mats. They will go good with my bucket seats.
I should go by Chickeneers house tomomorow(but its SUN)im in charlote again for the weekend and get that FTVB and the new Lightning mats. They will go good with my bucket seats.
Let me post the definitive answer on torque reduction, because it's high time I did. Bookmark this thread for the next time it comes up....
The intermediate clutch is weak, or the weakest part anyhow, Ford put the program in to protect the tranny from the STOCK engine, doing anything to remove it and not even change the engine is pushing your luck, period. But the big problem, is the thing that most people do to remove it is really a side effect of doing something to the engine to make you need it even more. If you chip the truck and remove the torque reduction, there comes a point that every 1/2 WOT shift you get is luck. GO ahead and do it, if you want. It won't kill the tranny in a week (well, not every one anyhow) but it's not good for it, every time you WOT without it takes something away from the intermediate clutch, it's almost always a case of how long it will last. As with all things made in millions, some will last a long time, some will die pretty quick, but nothing else you can do will effect how long, it's all a matter of luck from the day you remove it.
I've said many times, bring me 10 trannies with it left in, 10 with it removed, all with about 12K miles since modded and I'll tell you which ones were which from looking at the intermediate clutch. It's not even close, and 8 of the ones with chips will say beforehand that it was shifting fine. It breaks donw gradually, you don't feel it until it finally lets go. If you watch your trap speeds, you can tell (they get slower), but otherwise, burned plates will hold somewhat up to the day they don't, when the last little bit of friction material falls of the middle plate, you no longer have second gear, and then you know how long yours was going to last.
If you're planning in doing some internal work eventually, by all means, go for it, just know that eventually, you will have to pull the tranny.
G
The intermediate clutch is weak, or the weakest part anyhow, Ford put the program in to protect the tranny from the STOCK engine, doing anything to remove it and not even change the engine is pushing your luck, period. But the big problem, is the thing that most people do to remove it is really a side effect of doing something to the engine to make you need it even more. If you chip the truck and remove the torque reduction, there comes a point that every 1/2 WOT shift you get is luck. GO ahead and do it, if you want. It won't kill the tranny in a week (well, not every one anyhow) but it's not good for it, every time you WOT without it takes something away from the intermediate clutch, it's almost always a case of how long it will last. As with all things made in millions, some will last a long time, some will die pretty quick, but nothing else you can do will effect how long, it's all a matter of luck from the day you remove it.
I've said many times, bring me 10 trannies with it left in, 10 with it removed, all with about 12K miles since modded and I'll tell you which ones were which from looking at the intermediate clutch. It's not even close, and 8 of the ones with chips will say beforehand that it was shifting fine. It breaks donw gradually, you don't feel it until it finally lets go. If you watch your trap speeds, you can tell (they get slower), but otherwise, burned plates will hold somewhat up to the day they don't, when the last little bit of friction material falls of the middle plate, you no longer have second gear, and then you know how long yours was going to last.
If you're planning in doing some internal work eventually, by all means, go for it, just know that eventually, you will have to pull the tranny.
G
G
Will turning it back on
(god I hate that stupid fart)
effect ET's at all ???
And will it effect the positive shifting of your V/B ???
I mean lets think about this a minute, right where we want this
beautiful positive shift to keep up moving quick and slip free,
all of a sudden wam 4 cylinders drop out
Now as for the fart, (like the old electric shifters we use to use
for MotorCycle racing), the fart "or backfire" was due to the
ignition being turned off and on for this milli-second.
In this case it's not going off, just dropping 4 cylinders
HOW SAFE IS THAT FOR ME AND MY NITROUS ?
Of course I am not doubting your expertise on this matter,
that goes without saying, You'r the expert
and I know nothing.
I'm just asking questions because lately it seems things
I THOUGHT I've known about forever,
seem to change without notice
I think everyone knows my story by now,
my L hasn't shifted where it's suppose to, since the
day I bought in "BRAND NEW".
(10 programs, 2 chips, 3 tuners)
Thats the one and ONLY reason I just now put your V/B in.
Hoping this will stop the 6000 RPM WOT Shifts I experience.
(I've faced the fact, it may already be too late for me)
and yes like you say, even know under normal driving,
my tranny is flawless.
Dam I got to start paying attention more
Will turning it back on
(god I hate that stupid fart)effect ET's at all ???
And will it effect the positive shifting of your V/B ???
I mean lets think about this a minute, right where we want this
beautiful positive shift to keep up moving quick and slip free,
all of a sudden wam 4 cylinders drop out
Now as for the fart, (like the old electric shifters we use to use
for MotorCycle racing), the fart "or backfire" was due to the
ignition being turned off and on for this milli-second.
In this case it's not going off, just dropping 4 cylinders
HOW SAFE IS THAT FOR ME AND MY NITROUS ?
Of course I am not doubting your expertise on this matter,
that goes without saying, You'r the expert
and I know nothing.
I'm just asking questions because lately it seems things
I THOUGHT I've known about forever,
seem to change without notice

I think everyone knows my story by now,
my L hasn't shifted where it's suppose to, since the
day I bought in "BRAND NEW".
(10 programs, 2 chips, 3 tuners)
Thats the one and ONLY reason I just now put your V/B in.
Hoping this will stop the 6000 RPM WOT Shifts I experience.
(I've faced the fact, it may already be too late for me)
and yes like you say, even know under normal driving,
my tranny is flawless.
Dam I got to start paying attention more
Rob,
You are exactly right. You would be cutting off the leg to save the foot. That momentary fart is a backfire taking place in your engine. It's not as bad on a stock engine as it is on a modified motor where you are pushing the head bolts and rods to the limit.
Let's face it, this is just the auto manufactures bandaid to get it through the warranty period. Instead of really fixing the problem it's cheaper to throw this bandaid fix at it. They all do this crap not just Ford.
If you autocross or just drive the hell out of your L all the time on the streets then torque reduction might be your best bet. I'm not in the gas all the time on the street just ocassionally. In my case I choose to offer up the tranny over my motor because I'm already pushing it at 430 HP. I always said that I would count myself lucky if the stock tranny made it to 50,000 miles at this performance level. It's at 47,000 miles right now.
Gregg, you will have my money soon or later. I'm hoping for later.
You are exactly right. You would be cutting off the leg to save the foot. That momentary fart is a backfire taking place in your engine. It's not as bad on a stock engine as it is on a modified motor where you are pushing the head bolts and rods to the limit.
Let's face it, this is just the auto manufactures bandaid to get it through the warranty period. Instead of really fixing the problem it's cheaper to throw this bandaid fix at it. They all do this crap not just Ford.
If you autocross or just drive the hell out of your L all the time on the streets then torque reduction might be your best bet. I'm not in the gas all the time on the street just ocassionally. In my case I choose to offer up the tranny over my motor because I'm already pushing it at 430 HP. I always said that I would count myself lucky if the stock tranny made it to 50,000 miles at this performance level. It's at 47,000 miles right now.
Gregg, you will have my money soon or later. I'm hoping for later.
you might have trouble with hitting the pan if you have your L lowered. I have a friend that's going back to a stock pan because of this.
It increases capacity more than the 4x4 pan (more capacity=more cooling), and it does not hang as low as the 4x4 pan.


