Well My parts all came in today from ford parts network. I would be sitting here right now waiting on a bolt if it wasnt for fellow Lightning enthusist Microsuck on Nloc.net as he hooked me up with the idler bolt that i needed. The top pic is what the idler looked like when i popped my hood when i new i had a problem.
Im no longer the sole member of the no boost but still running club

 

Now would be a good time to polish it up

 

I thought about it but i would rather have boost right now. I will polish them over the christmas holidays.

 

glad your back up to speed now...

 

Glad you have Boost again.....

 

what did you do to that thing with a bolt? Im just wondering if you did the same thing I did... I cracked a bolt off in that frame... i had to remove it like you did, and take it to a machine shop then have it backed out, and I was able to put a new bolt in it... I just couldnt get it out by hand while it was on the motor... What did you do to yours? Glad you got it working again.
Shane

 

Idler bracket took me a good day to completely polish.... it's was worth the trouble!

 

QIKSLVR Im coming for you now I got an new mod for some extra hp to make shure you see tailights lol

ShaneMcKenna203
The bolt is still in one piece but the threads were messed up so a MICROSUCK on NLOC.net hooked me up with another one. Ihad to get a whole bracket since the threads were messed up and the mount was bent. Ill get a pick of the bolt here in a sec when i put the new parts on.

TampaBlack99

I need some tips on how to polish and what all i need to do it. I figure you gotta learn sometime.

 

This is some info from Eastwood that will give you an idea of what is involved.
Email me and I will send a pdf file that will be VERY informative!

POLISH & BUFF USING A VARIETY OF COMPOUNDS
You will be polishing and buffing your wheel with a series of progressively finer compounds. To do so you will need a high-speed buffer, drill, or flexible shaft (which can save on hand fatigue).

We started with a Sears Craftsman Pro-Series high-speed drill capable of 2500 r.p.m. and the Eastwood Wheel Smoothing Kit mentioned previously. The Smoothing Kit contains all the progressively finer compounds, 4" spiral buff, a goblet buff, wheel arbor, buff taper and detailed instructions.

Using Eastwood's 80 grit Greaseless Compound (Item-no #13129), run a slowly moving 4" spiral buff against the compound for an even coating. Permit the compound to dry. Strike the buff with a screwdriver handle to free up the material a little and permit it to do its job.

Following the diagram in the directions, work your buff across the surface to be polished at a 90-degree angle. As you progress you will see the surface take on a dull, polished aluminum finish. Turn the wheel 90 degrees and polish the surface once again. You may find you will have to repeat each step and recoat your buff several times. Remember, it is important
to let the buff dry for about 15 minutes after each application of Greaseless Compound before using the buff.

Eastwood's Tapered Goblet Buff (Item-no #13045) is ideal for getting into tight places such as lug nut holes and our finned areas. At this point, before moving on to the next level of compound be sure to wash your wheel with warm soapy water and make sure it is free of compound residue and dry before moving on.

Once you are satisfied you have produced an evenly polished surface with the 80-grit compound, move on to Eastwood's 220 grit Greaseless Compound (Item-no #13131). Once again, run a clean, new 4" buff against the compound and permit it to dry before you begin polishing your surface. Keep your buffing wheel as close to a 90-degree angle from the previous grit scratches as you can.

You will notice the surface of your wheel will take on a smoother and more polished look. Yet a very aluminum look/color
will persist. Repeat as needed and use the same procedure to reload Greaseless Compound onto the buff.

It is best to use the goblet buff in tight areas with the 220-grit compound. You will now switch to Eastwood's 320 greaseless
compound and another brand new 4" spiral buff. Use the same procedures as followed with the courser compounds.

Note that Greaseless Compounds can dry out. While Eastwood's plastic packaging can be resealed with care, we recommend
the use of airtight plastic freezer bags to protect your compounds from drying out before your next session.

It was at the 320-grit stage we could really start seeing some real results in our work.

Be sure to continue to wash your wheel thoroughly between each level of compound with warm soapy water, making sure to rinse all the soap away as well.

THE FINISHING STAGE
You will proceed to Eastwood's Wheel Buffing Kit for the final finishing stage. The kit (Item-no #13105) contains Tripoli Premium buffing compound (Item-no #13135), which is perfect for all base metals such as aluminum, copper, brass and pewter. Also included is White Rouge (Item-no #13001), which will produce the final brilliant shine for which you are looking. Use the same basic procedures as you followed with the courser materials, the exception being the use of a 4" Loose Section Buff for the final polish with the White Rouge.

At this point, your wheel should literally turn to a chrome-like shine right before your eyes, and the sense of pride in doing it yourself will take hold.

 

would a dremel tool work for a drill? Sounds good but how do i keep the stuff out of the bearings on the idlers?

 

The bearings are sealed so this should not be a problem, but I would just remove all the pulleys from the idler bracket before you begin to grind away.

A dremel will not work for a drill, unless you plan on working on the idler bracket for weeks instead of days.