Installed Tommy's line lock kit on Thursday so I could use it at the track. Install went very smooth. I used a push button out of a TCI line lock kit I had laying around and put it right next to the steering column. Most people don't even see it unless I point it out to them. Well once it was all said and done, it didn't work. You could hear the solenoid coming on but it wasn't holding any pressure. So I called Tommy and he brought an extra soleniod to the track for me. He even swapped it out himself, no questions asked! That is customer service. It worked flawlessly on both Friday and Saturday. Did a couple smokeys on Sat night once I got home too. Doing a burnout now takes very little effort. I am sure it will help out my rear brakes too. Thanks Tommy for the great product and great service. I recommend it to anyone that goes to the track. It is money very well spent. -Mat-

 

Hey Matt, the instructions say bleed out the front brakes, did you do this? Is it difficult to do, what do you need to bleed brakes?

D-Day

 

I did not bleed the brakes. My thinking was that since you are working right near the booster, the air will just go up into the reservoir. I simply pumped the peddle several times before I started her up. We also had mine apart twice due to the faulty solenoid and my brakes feel just as good as they did before. Bleeding brakes is not hard at all either, just best to have 2 people when you do it, but I don't see a need. I think he just has that in the instructions as a precautionary measure. -Mat-

 

 

A good rule of thumb for anyone working on their brake system is to"ALWAYS" bleed the brakes when you remove a line or a major component. One little air bubble in the system could spell disaster.

Would have been really bad if you would have had problems stopping after an 11 sec run with no brakes and no rollbar to boot.

SAFETY FIRST

 

I bled mine and got A LOT of air out of the lines. You are adding a new line that only has air in it and no fluid.

I agree though, the line lock kicks butt!

 

It takes 10 minutes once the front wheels are off, and you need two people (one in the truck operating the brake pedal and one operating the bleeder valve.

Get a rubber vacuum line and clear water bottle or whatever. Put some brake fluid in the bottom of the water bottle. Attach the vacuum line to the bleeder valve and make sure the other end is in the brake fluid in the bottle.

Open the bleeder valve
Have the other guy push the brake pedal all the way down and hold it. Fluid will come out of the line and enter the bottle. Eventually, if there is air in the lines, the air will come out and create bubbles in the bottle (Make sure the hose is in the brake fluid).
Close the valve.
Have the guy release the break pedal. (Make sure he doesn't release the brake pedal with the valve open or you will pull a lot of air in the lines.

Repeat this until no more bubbles come out and do it once or twice more to be safe. Then do the same with the other side.

Keep checking the amount of fluid in the master cylinder and top it off, especially at the end of the bleed.

Should take 10-15 minutes.

 

yysenhimer,

Thanks a million, brother!

 

Yes make sure you don't run the resorvoir down to low, otherwise you will just have to do it all over again. -Mat-

 

I would have just thrown it in park. -Mat-

SAFETY LAST

 

Your kill'N me man!!!

 

INTO THE SANDPIT

 

ROTFLMAO

GET ME A SHOVEL

 

what did the line lok run you? and how long did it take to put in (the hardware anyway not the switch)

 

The hardware, takes aprox 10min. to install. It is the easiest you will find!!!