Anybody know what the specs are on the 'Plug'. What's the thread, size etc?

 

Hey Guys-

I used a 5/8 brass hose-end (garden hose) block off at the header and EGR...which I have yet to remove. Threads on like it was meant to be.

coated the inside with a "generous" amount of RTV red, let it skin, and screwed it on. No leaks.

Piece of cake, for $1.35 per cap at the hardware store.

No check engine lights.

With a laser thermometer, 165 degrees pre-mod at the manifold/JDM Spacer union.

128 degrees after, all things the same.

No way it can't help.

-Andy

 

Is that true the egr lowers compustion temps? but doesnt it heat the intake?
Shane

 

Yes and yes.........less pure O2 is being burned. Noxious gases take the place of the oxygen.

--Joe

 

the licesnse plate blocker did set off an ses light

 

It is pretty sensitive isn't it. To the people who remove these egr valves, do you get lower intake temps is that true or a myth?
Thanks, Shane

 

And more EGR reading...

EGR Info

It sounds as if HIGH EGR flow is necessary during mid-range acceleration and cruising when combustion temps tend to be the highest. That means that removing the EGR could potentially cause detonation at part throttle. Also, the EGR simply serves to reduce the amount of oxygen entering the motor at a certain time (engine speed, throttle position, etc.) to reduce the amount of oxygen available for combusiton, thereby reducing the combustion temperatures and the production of NOx's.

Provided it doesn't throw a code, your truck doesn't knock and ping (although inaudible detonation can certainly take its toll after a while) and you're not too worried about emissions and any visual inspections, than removing it should cause no harm. In fact, you may pick up a minute amount of power in the midrange due to the fact that no exhaust gas is being introduced into the intake tract. Also, the potentially cooler intake charge may serve to partially offset the added oxygen and its increased combustion temperatures...this would help to offset a least a portion of the added liklihood for detonation.

So, good arguments for and good arguments against. Place your bets and roll the dice.

TeamSLS,

Not flaming by any means, but unless your measurements were taken under controlled identical conditions (same air temp, same barometric pressure, same gas, same driving conditions prior to measurement - including identical throttle settings for exactly identical amounts of time, same starting temperature for the upper intake plenum, etc.) than the measurements don't really mean anything. Do I think that blocking the EGR will help...probably marginally. Do I think that it will make a 40 degree difference...probably not. Like I said, I don't think that removing it is necessarily a bad thing, but I don't think that the difference in temperature will be that great. But I have been wrong before. Unfortunately, neither you nor I have the means nor the equipment to prove one another wrong. So...

 

can I get more info on how the egr valve has to do with detonation?
thanks, Shane

 

Shane,

Thermo 101 is in session...

The EGR itself has nothing at all to do with detonation. What it introduces into the intact tract has everything to do with detonation. Since, when it functions normally, it introduces burnt exhaust gases into the incoming air charge it is reducing the amount of oxygen entering the motor while it's 'open'. This reduced oxygen mixture (due to exhaust gases now occupying space that previously would have been occupied by air - with its contained oxygen) results in a less powerful explosion in the combustion chamber. This less powerful explosion will result in less heat in the combustion chamber - smaller explosion, less heat - a side benefit of which is that NOx's are not created because they don't occur until combustion temps approach 2500 degrees. This reduced combustion heat will also result in a cooler motor (valve faces and any potential 'hot spots' in the combustion chamber) which will reduce the chances of detonation. It's a combination of intake air charge temperature, combustion chamber temperature and compression ratio that will cause detonation. Reduce any one of these three and you reduce the likelihood of detonation.

So, removing the EGR will result in higher combustion chamber temperatures at certain times (part throttle, cruising, etc.), which results in a greater chance of detonation (all other things being equal). Now, if the EGR does indeed heat the air charge and it has been taken out of the equation by being removed or blocked off than you have reduced the temperature of the intake air charge but have increased the combustion temperature. One of our three variables has gone up while another has gone down - assuming that the third variable - compression ratio - has remained constant.

You lose in one area but gain in another...but it would be nearly impossible for anyone to be able to tell you the degree to which the two offset one another without a controlled lab and some rediculously expensive and complex testing equipment.

 

Didn't most automobiles run just fine prior to the introduction of the EGR mess?

I do plan on taking it to a dyno real soon to make sure I'm running up to snuff, then send the chip off for fine tuning, or upgrade to a dual program - one for spring/summer/fall and one side for winter.

No SES light on mine... drove it for 2 days.

 

One thing that hasnt been mentioned yet is that if your intake is getting REALLY hot under normal driving then your EGR system is likley bad.

Since it is part of the emssions system it should be warrantied longer than most.

You might get more results from fixing the problem rather than the symptoms...

Doug

 

so if my intake isnt getting really hot, and my egr is working, It isnt even worth it to remove it?

 

These discussions are simply GREAT FUN

I would be VERY curious on how many so-calld 'informed' members have actually built an engine or tranny? I know this is the place to learn things and thats great. I've learned quite a bit about the ins and outs out the Lightning experience.

But.. when people get on here and claim their opinion is the correct one (and how many motors have YOU built from bare block up?) and these opinions are simply CRAZY, it makes for great fun.

The egr thing is pretty good. But to my mind Struck in AZ has it about right. Does NOT open at idle or WOT, so in staging lanes or burnouts or on a run it does NOTHING detrimental.

Best thread so far was PCV valve. Guy claim half of his motor was pressurized and other half wasnt

So this particuler engine must be sealed right and left at the crankshaft? New design Ive never seen on ANY V8

Me.... Im a dumbo, I'll admit it. But Im not some kid or white collar never touched an engine in my life guy and it gets my goat to get flamed on some of this stuff.

 

NO

 

thanks