After breaking a rear U-joint/Driveshaft I found out I need traction bars to prevent axle wrap.

So my question is what is the best one out there to prevent axle wrap? Also including companies like Competition Engineering and what not. I know I need Under Axle traction bars but thats all I know.

Also what is the difference between a slapper style bar like..



and this style bar...



Does one work better then the other to prevent axle wrap?

Any input would be great in terms of what companies out there have something good.

I also hear the term "lift bars". Does this mean it lifts the rear of the truck? If that is so then why would that help since I was also told I have to lower the back of the truck by 2" in order to correct bad pinion angles? Doesnt make sense.

Thanks guys.

 

I don't know about the fixed bar style, but the slapper bar is a proven working model. I built a set my self in just a few hours.

Edit: Also the torque arm wont allow he suspension to move as freely

 

The slapper bar will allow some wrap, and is the easiest to install. While the torque arm will allow no wrap, and is much more involved to install. You have options of the Truck-Tracs (slapper), Cal-Tracs (adjustable torque arm), and the Ranchos (non-adjustable torque arm).

Sal sells both the Truck-Tracs and Cal-Tracs through PSP. He has even used both himself and would be able to you how he liked each.

 

TTT I'm curious as well

 

Where do you get the Rancho type???????? And will any of these have any issues if using drop shackles?

*Didn't mean to jack your thread...just curious *

 

From doing a lot of reaserch it looks like both will get the job done. I have chosen to go with the Lakewood (updated) traction bars because the price is right. All will work basically as well as each other and keep my U-joint and drive shaft from exploding

 

i would just upgrade the hardware to grade 8. the truck tracks are much better and beefier imo. traction devices is something i wouldnt want to skimp on. i use the TT my self and couldnt be happier.

also, lift bars dont lift the rear, they help by lifting the front when launching and placing more weight on the rear (i think)

 

I agree that the Rancho style, from JDM, LFP. or JLP are the best in elliminating axle wrap. I don't worry about busting a driveshaft with mine.

 

what he said!!!! I have JL's traction bars and I love them!!!!!

 

nice new sig Don.

 

No doubt that the Rancho style, AKA Lift Bars is a more firmer
traction bar that will prevent the most amount of rear wraping.
(no it does not raise the height of the truck)
At 58" long and permanatly and firmly mounted, it's obviously a
better launching bar. But they are also alot more money, and do sometimes run into problems with lowered L's and certain exhuast systems. Also I've seen the brackets themself become a clearance problem and actually hit in some cases. Would I be correct in assuming you give up some drivability and comfort with these type bars around town ???

I happen to run the Truck Trak bars and I will say they will give you equal 60ft times and perform flawlessly on powerful launches neck and neck with the above bars. It is a differant type of launch,
I guess the best way to describe it would be the power slams up on the front section of the leaf's and then throws the power to the rear and down, where as the 58" solid bars seem to launch you straight out, however once again I got to say the same 60ft times seem to be acheived. I have experienced some hopping
with TT's, and on 1 particular run I had to get out of it due to that hopping. But I think with a little adjusting I can prevent that from ever happening again. Guess thats tommorrow's project,
not much time left before Friday

In your case NTIMD8, I think slapper bars are a perfect choice.
I see enough people using Lakewoods (with better hardware)
getting good results if you don't spring for the TT bars

 

Thank you for the info guys!

I was under the assumption the new lakewood kit part number 21715 came with grade 8 bolts. Is that not true?



I do agree the TT are beefier and look like a better product but I can justify payin $275 for them when the lakewoods are $99

I talked to a few "authorities" on this subject and all said the Lakewoods would do what I need it to do.

EDIT: I just read a bunch of posts and sure enough they do not come with grade 8 hardware just as ROb said. I should have known not to question Rob

 

i have lakewoods, and they work great,
I can drive every day No problems!

Some of the bars that are permanently attached effect drivability.

they must be PRE_LOADED and ride and handle like crap.

Truck Tracks are more beefy and strong and a little longer than the Lakewoods, but the lakewoods work for me.

BTW: at the trrack I run a Hoosier SLICK 28x10x16.

All i can say is the lakewoods work for me and I haven't had a problem since I mounted them.

Mounted them and forget about it.
Kinda like pulg and play.

Kinda like my last girlfriend.

 

Great now that I have seen a pic of the JLP ones I am thinking of those ones. They look so nice



OK here is the thing. I dont mind paying more "if" I am paying more for a reason. If the lakewoods will prevent me from breaking anothe U-joint just as well as the TT slappers or the JLP lift bars then I will just grab them. If not I will pay the extra money for the TT or the JLP's which ever works better.

Me so confused

 

Where you getting your Lakewoods from?