Engine rebuild questions
I plain on rebuilding my bottom end over the winter to handle more boost. I plain on runnig manley rods, but waswondering if t would be safe to run the stock pistions. New ones are about $700. I dont want to sound cheap but can the stock ones handle the additional boost? I only wanna do this once so any advice will help
When most people rebuild their motor, they figure they might as well change out the pistons while they already have the motor apart. But, really the weakest part in the L motors is the rods and not the pistons so you should be fine with the stockers.
don't quote me on this
don't quote me on this
The weakest links are the rods. I believe our stock pistons are hypereutetics, which are much weaker than cast or forged pistons. Ive never heard of anyone melting a whole in a stock piston though..
I went with the CP pistons, noisy but effective...
I went with the CP pistons, noisy but effective...
Originally posted by promodlightning
I went with the CP pistons, noisy but effective...
I went with the CP pistons, noisy but effective...
I hear “this” piston is noisy verses “that” piston and it always seems contradictory. I wonder if it is not the piston so much as the machine shop doing the work. What exactly would make one piston noisier than the next?
Originally posted by Ayrton
That brings up a good question…
I hear “this” piston is noisy verses “that” piston and it always seems contradictory. I wonder if it is not the piston so much as the machine shop doing the work. What exactly would make one piston noisier than the next?
That brings up a good question…
I hear “this” piston is noisy verses “that” piston and it always seems contradictory. I wonder if it is not the piston so much as the machine shop doing the work. What exactly would make one piston noisier than the next?
We will have some great engine combos shortly!!!!!
Hope this helps.
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I remember reading where lightning boy had problems with the stock pistons where the wrist pin is held. The aftermarket pistons have a much bigger area there. The only reason I would go with the stock pistons is if you just are looking for the cheapest way to build the engine. Take the stock rods out and put the new ones in.
BTW, I have the manley pistons in my engine and haven't had any problems out of them. I have run up to a 150 shot of nitrous with 21 psi boost and 26 psi boost by itself and haven't broke anything for around 20K miles...
BTW, I have the manley pistons in my engine and haven't had any problems out of them. I have run up to a 150 shot of nitrous with 21 psi boost and 26 psi boost by itself and haven't broke anything for around 20K miles...
Last edited by easterisland; Oct 7, 2003 at 10:57 AM.
Originally posted by tommylightning
You are right, it has lots to do with how much clearance the machine shop puts in the bore. The CP pistons are very strong and have a lower silicone content than say....the Probe pistons. The probe pistons can be ran with less piston to wall clearence but are not as strong.
You are right, it has lots to do with how much clearance the machine shop puts in the bore. The CP pistons are very strong and have a lower silicone content than say....the Probe pistons. The probe pistons can be ran with less piston to wall clearence but are not as strong.
The stock forged pistons are good pieces, allot of people will recomend that you replace them but I know if anyone is realy is sure of what their limit is.
1 report of a pin knock is not much info. I think it would be safe to say that if you plan on keeping HP below 500 to 550 you would be fine. I plan to use stock pistons and over time I hope to see how much thay can take.
1 report of a pin knock is not much info. I think it would be safe to say that if you plan on keeping HP below 500 to 550 you would be fine. I plan to use stock pistons and over time I hope to see how much thay can take.


