I am running a KB on a stock long block w/ pretty much all the bolt-ons...aka...CAI, S/B T-body, Phenolic Spacer, E-fan/Water Pump, Heat Exchanger w/ fans, Bassani Hi Flo Cat-pipe and Cat-back etc...etc.
I'm running a JLP single program chip and a 2# lower with a 3" upper. We have the shift points set at 5200rpm to help alleviate some of the stress on the rods. I see right at 16psi at the 1-2 and 2-3 shift, then she settles down to 15psi in 3rd going through the traps at 5000rpm. We'll be installing a set of Long Tubes this week in an effort to help further alleviate cylinder pressure, and I'm sending my chip back to JL to be converted to a flip.
IMHO, this is the MOST boost I'd run on a stock block.
Furthermore, I will NOT take my truck above 5100rpm in 3rd gear on the street, and ABSOLUTELY keep away from ANY kind of SUSTAINED top end runs. It's a TRUCK, it has all the aerodynamic efficiency of your average brick wall. What's the point?(at least with a stock motor.) Just my .02.

Hope this helps,
Rob

BTW...going from a 3.25" upper to a 3" upper will most definitely bring a SMILE to your face

 

Any tenth of a second gained out of the hole normally doubles out the back door. As far as et goes. With mph it would seem the same since you are elastically proppelling forward with a stronger traction force?...

 

That would seem to make sense, but it doesn't work like that for some reason. I'm sure someone on here could explain why.

 

I think it goes something like this....
Take the same vehicle at the track on the same day making the same power.
When you improve your 60' time, the vehicle has less time to make mph over a given distance (1/4mi. in this case). So, by hooking up better, you effectively lower your ET, but generally won't notice a big difference either way in trap speed, cause the motor's still making the same HP. There are obvious exceptions to the rule, but I believe this is a good rule of thumb. Just my .02.

Later,
Rob