Wheel Alignment & Cam Bolt
Wheel Alignment & Cam Bolt
Hey y'all... I put new tires on about two months ago and in the last couple of weeks it starting pulling to the right.
Sure enough... the drivers tire inside tread is worn pretty bad...
Don't remember hitting anything that would toast my alignment but it will have to be done...
This brings up the old question about camber bolts... I've done a search and I'm still unclear if I need them for the alignment. I can certainly put them on myself but there seems to be enough controversy I am not sure if I should or shouldn't.
Is there anything differernt on the 2001 as oppossed to the other years?
Can't drive it too much or I'll really have a tire problem.
Sure enough... the drivers tire inside tread is worn pretty bad...
Don't remember hitting anything that would toast my alignment but it will have to be done...
This brings up the old question about camber bolts... I've done a search and I'm still unclear if I need them for the alignment. I can certainly put them on myself but there seems to be enough controversy I am not sure if I should or shouldn't.
Is there anything differernt on the 2001 as oppossed to the other years?
Can't drive it too much or I'll really have a tire problem.
Re: Wheel Alignment & Cam Bolt
Originally posted by rickgig
Hey y'all... I put new tires on about two months ago and in the last couple of weeks it starting pulling to the right.
Sure enough... the drivers tire inside tread is worn pretty bad...
Don't remember hitting anything that would toast my alignment but it will have to be done...
This brings up the old question about camber bolts... I've done a search and I'm still unclear if I need them for the alignment. I can certainly put them on myself but there seems to be enough controversy I am not sure if I should or shouldn't.
Is there anything differernt on the 2001 as oppossed to the other years?
Can't drive it too much or I'll really have a tire problem.
Hey y'all... I put new tires on about two months ago and in the last couple of weeks it starting pulling to the right.
Sure enough... the drivers tire inside tread is worn pretty bad...
Don't remember hitting anything that would toast my alignment but it will have to be done...
This brings up the old question about camber bolts... I've done a search and I'm still unclear if I need them for the alignment. I can certainly put them on myself but there seems to be enough controversy I am not sure if I should or shouldn't.
Is there anything differernt on the 2001 as oppossed to the other years?
Can't drive it too much or I'll really have a tire problem.
How many miles have you driven since the new tires?
MaxTorque02
It's a daily driver but I work out of my home so I can sit here if I need to...
I may have 1/8" of tread left on the inside of the tire at the very edge... around 2" form the side of the tire all is well and the tire looks good. I can use it still but not on the front of the truck.
I may have a total of 5,000 miles on the tires... maybe.
Are the cam bolts tough to put in or should I just have the shop do it?
It's a daily driver but I work out of my home so I can sit here if I need to...
I may have 1/8" of tread left on the inside of the tire at the very edge... around 2" form the side of the tire all is well and the tire looks good. I can use it still but not on the front of the truck.
I may have a total of 5,000 miles on the tires... maybe.
Are the cam bolts tough to put in or should I just have the shop do it?
Putting the bolts is easy, but you will have to have an alignment after as your camber will be all out of whack.
As a side not, I know some alignment shops will tell you that they can align the truck without the camber bolts, but I question the alignments specs they are using. The camber bolts are cheap insurance and offer far greater adjustability than the stock plate.
As a side not, I know some alignment shops will tell you that they can align the truck without the camber bolts, but I question the alignments specs they are using. The camber bolts are cheap insurance and offer far greater adjustability than the stock plate.
Originally posted by Ayrton
Putting the bolts is easy, but you will have to have an alignment after as your camber will be all out of whack.
As a side not, I know some alignment shops will tell you that they can align the truck without the camber bolts, but I question the alignments specs they are using. The camber bolts are cheap insurance and offer far greater adjustability than the stock plate.
Putting the bolts is easy, but you will have to have an alignment after as your camber will be all out of whack.
As a side not, I know some alignment shops will tell you that they can align the truck without the camber bolts, but I question the alignments specs they are using. The camber bolts are cheap insurance and offer far greater adjustability than the stock plate.
Originally posted by Ayrton
Putting the bolts is easy, but you will have to have an alignment after as your camber will be all out of whack.
As a side not, I know some alignment shops will tell you that they can align the truck without the camber bolts, but I question the alignments specs they are using. The camber bolts are cheap insurance and offer far greater adjustability than the stock plate.
Putting the bolts is easy, but you will have to have an alignment after as your camber will be all out of whack.
As a side not, I know some alignment shops will tell you that they can align the truck without the camber bolts, but I question the alignments specs they are using. The camber bolts are cheap insurance and offer far greater adjustability than the stock plate.
I've dug deeper in the search and have found all kinds of good stuff... I'll tackle this in the morning and then get an alignment.
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Originally posted by Mondo1
Anyone know the part# on the napa cam bolts for the L? I think the bozo at the counter sold me the wrong ones.
Anyone know the part# on the napa cam bolts for the L? I think the bozo at the counter sold me the wrong ones.
F65Z-3B236-BB (bolt)
F65Z-3C178-AA (cam)
264-2953 (NAPA)
dirtchicken,
Read your post above about how quick the install went. It sounds like you only need to remove the factory bolts and slip in the new adjustable bolt without disturbing anything else???
>No need to compress the spring?
>Is there any "sprung" tension on the upper control arm...in other words...it doesn't pop out of place when you pull the factory bolt?
>Anything critical to watch for when changing the bolts out?
>The "BB" part number is for the front of the control arm and the "AA" part number is for the rear of the arm?
I'm going to be doing mine in the next week or two in prep for an alignment...just wanted a few more details from you on this procedure!
Thanks,
Kevin
Read your post above about how quick the install went. It sounds like you only need to remove the factory bolts and slip in the new adjustable bolt without disturbing anything else???
>No need to compress the spring?
>Is there any "sprung" tension on the upper control arm...in other words...it doesn't pop out of place when you pull the factory bolt?
>Anything critical to watch for when changing the bolts out?
>The "BB" part number is for the front of the control arm and the "AA" part number is for the rear of the arm?
I'm going to be doing mine in the next week or two in prep for an alignment...just wanted a few more details from you on this procedure!
Thanks,
Kevin
I lowered my truck and installed these... still wondering how necessary they are. The alignment shop used all of the travel allowed and just barely came in at the Lightning spec's listed on this website. My advice is to have the truck aligned.. get the printout and see if it matches what the spec is. If not, ask why... if they say you need more travel on the alignment, then get the cam bolts.
I really do not think that this an issue of whether or not to add the cam bolts. Look at your lower contol arms and look for any signs of movement... the round bolt doesn't always tighten in the oval hole - a.k.a. the clunk. This can throw your alignment out of whack right away... I am speaking from ewperience on this. My 99 was like this. Right after the first clunk, the tires went south, and the truck pulled hard to the right. The clunk was supposedly fixed, and alignment was good until it clunked again... guess what... pulls hard to the right. After the dealer finally got it locked in place, the alignment held. My 02 hasn't clunked, and alignment is very good... tire wear is also good.
Just shedding light on a possible root cause for your problem. Your cam bolt kit will do you no good if your lower control arm is constantly moving.
I really do not think that this an issue of whether or not to add the cam bolts. Look at your lower contol arms and look for any signs of movement... the round bolt doesn't always tighten in the oval hole - a.k.a. the clunk. This can throw your alignment out of whack right away... I am speaking from ewperience on this. My 99 was like this. Right after the first clunk, the tires went south, and the truck pulled hard to the right. The clunk was supposedly fixed, and alignment was good until it clunked again... guess what... pulls hard to the right. After the dealer finally got it locked in place, the alignment held. My 02 hasn't clunked, and alignment is very good... tire wear is also good.
Just shedding light on a possible root cause for your problem. Your cam bolt kit will do you no good if your lower control arm is constantly moving.


