I have read up that you need to put on shorter end links once you lower the truck so the sway bars work correctly....

So what does it do or not do if you leave it the same? Doesn't it just preload the sway bars making them stiffer?

Here's some info on my truck ---
Roush kit with belltech 2 inch shackles...

thanks in advance for the replys

 

Anti-sway bars (You really don't want SWAY bars ... grin)
are best set at a neutral position and with the least amount
of "give" due to the stock rubber bushings. You want the
bar to start flexing the moment you side load the suspension imho.

I replaced my fronts and addressed the tendency to under/over
steer and the truck never handled better than this month
at Mid-Ohio ...

I had run the stock set after lowering for about 4 month's and
since I never replaced them, I didn't really appreciate the difference.

Get the poly ones, and the Moroso adjustable for the backs.

Great investment in cornering correctlyl

Cliff

 

Cool

 

It may make them stiffer, but not because of preloading. So long as the links on each side are the same length, the bar is not preloaded.

But the bar may be stiffer because the leverage would be less, as the arms are effectively shorter. Consider the following explanation found on the Web relating to adjustable bars:

It is the lever law that is applied during the design of an adjustable anti-sway bar. By using multiple end link locations, the distance from the point of attachment to the straight part of the bar can be altered. Or in engineers’ terms, the length of "the moment arm" can be increased or reduced in order to make more or less torque against the bar. Using a setting further from the center of the bar increases the length of the moment arm, resulting in more torque against the bar, allowing more twisting motion of the bar, creating more body roll. Using a setting closer to the center of the bar reduces the length of the moment arm, resulting in less torque against the bar, allowing less twisting motion of the bar, creating less body roll.



According to my mind's eye, making the bar more vertical (i.e., less level), will do the same thing as moving to a hole closer to the bar on the end of an adjustable bar. For instance, a perfectly vertical bar would be stiff indeed, allowing virtually no twist. But as the angle of the bar increases, the tendency to bind also increases.

But I could be wrong. If so, can anyone explain where my analysis fails?

 

SVT_KY
You mean that you ran the stock anti-sway bar setup and then changed to an aftermarket bar or you just changed the end links to the correct length?

Tim,

Your post has brought up some brainstorming for me.... I think that because the end links are applying torque to the anti-sway bars because they are too long, the bars are trying to "straighten out/neutral out" and thus, applying a downward force to the rear axle while at normal ride height....This then makes it stiffer even before the axle is twisting, creating something that i don't want at a neutral position. Does that sound right ? Or did i make that confusing

While going higher speeds when i hit a small bump in the road while turning, the front and rear would "skip/jump" to the side rapidly. It is kinda hard to explain.....I just attributed this to bump steer (because i have never had a vehicle that could exhibit bump steer), but i am thinking now that the problem is because of my stock endlinks.....

Is this kinda what your truck was doing SVT_KY?

Well i am ordering up the stuff tomorrow and will let everyone know what changes......

 

I lowered my '03 with JLP lowering shackles, 3 inches. The result was a very tight rear, so much so that I believe it impacted performance.

Solution - I drilled new holes in the frame rails raising the sway bar arms 2 inches. Worked like a charm!

D-Day