What and how are you torquing your built motor head studs to....

 

Hey-

"Due to the expansion rate of aluminum, it is recommended that the torque should be 65 ftlbs with ARP Moly Lube"

80 with 30wt.

Plenty of 700 hp+ cars going with that recommendation.

No problems here.

Knock on wood

Have fun!!

-Andy

 

Andy,
What setup are you running? Which blower? Nice numbers...

 

I wish I was in here talking about my 700 horses.

--Steele

 

Steele:

''~~My lug nuts require more torque than your Honda makes!~~
''

ROFL! Nice one

 

I have that bumper sticker on my truck. The Honda boys don't like it much.

--Steele

 

My setup, constantly changing:

Stock block bored to 350
Manley, CP, ARP, Federal Mogal, stock 4-ply head gaskets...
Fox Lake ported heads, ProPower valves etc
Stage 2 Comp Cams.
NOS noszles jetted to 175.
Kenne Bell @ 19psi.
electric everything.
Exhaust cutouts @ the header collector.
JDM exchanger, twin electric fans, NX N-tercooler, Water Wetter.
Ported intakes (upper & lower)

More horsepower to come.....hehehehehe

-Andy

 

Not to be redundant, but decided to change my sig after the post.

-See ya

 

Sounds sick. You have any pics?

 

Suggested torque with the ARP lube is 75 ft-lbs, I torque mine to 80 ft-lbs, and works great. If you use 30wt, I think it's 85 ft-lbs suggested by ARP.

 

So if you read the fine print it says 65 ft lbs. But Sal says 80 ft lbs........

Because of the extreme length of these studs I'm inclined to go with the higher torque, maybe not 80 ft lbs, but higher none the less.

Other things I have learned is to torque all the studs to spec and then let them sit for a day, then go back and un- torque them and re- torque them one at a time. Do this more than once if you can. It helps mate the threads together and you get a more solid torque, its almost like heat cycling the engine and then retorquing.

One more thing....be careful of ARP....they put torque specs for 7/16 studs into my main stud box, the main studs are 10 mm. There is a 10 ft lb difference between the two. The head studs are 11 mm on the block and 7/16 on the cylinder head end.
Dale

 

I got about 1500 miles on the motor..havent really put any power to it yet....I want to go back and retorque the heads while motor is cold before I get back on the dyno....can I just squirt 30 wt oil on the studs and retorque while motor is still in truck to 85 ftlbs Sal? I would have to go with Sal on this one due to the fact that he is the king of cylinder pressure and if 85 ftlbs with 30 wt oil works for him at 24# boost and 300 spray than it should work great for my 22#s and alcohol injection.....

 

promod
Is there anyway you could put the ARP moly on the studs ??

The more you can cut friction the better off you will be. The studs are long enough that they wind up like a torsion bar and then they creeeek like an old barn door and sometimes even snap at ya. Moly will help this situation.

Its not good if you think your torquing to 85 and only getting a true 60 because of friction and stud wind up.
Dale

 

for me to put moly on the studs I would have to back all of them studs out and apply the moly on the threads and both sides of the washer, correct.....my studs were originally torqued to 70 ftlbs with moly...I just thought that they are supposed to be checked after about 1000 miles......and it probably wouldnt even hurt anything to check..but pulling the valve covers off is tough....

 

It should be noted that this quote was taken from the ARP head stud directions.

A call direct to ARP confirms this.

Personally, I would go with Sal's recommendation...

Although I have had no problems.


-Andy