Got my reflashed PCM back!
i think I told them to set my shifts at 5,350. I don't know if he did or not. I think i have seen around a 1,000 rpm drop from a shift. correct me if I'm wrong. Just digging around my subconsious (spelling).
CYN, wth!? why are you being all special agent secretive now with your mods? I always post my mods here. I do it sparingly on other boards though. I never race other lightnings. and to answer your question Buzz, i never been to the track. I'm not really interested in track racing.
Nate, I would much rather street race than go to the track, Its cheaper until you get the ticket
I know DFW has about 6 different tracks within a hour drive, give it a try it can be alot of fun.
Cyntaxx- Check you mail and I wont tell anybody about the 10lb lower and 200 shot without a chip
I know DFW has about 6 different tracks within a hour drive, give it a try it can be alot of fun.Cyntaxx- Check you mail and I wont tell anybody about the 10lb lower and 200 shot without a chip
Originally posted by BuzzzLightyear
Nate, I would much rather street race than go to the track, Its cheaper until you get the ticket
Nate, I would much rather street race than go to the track, Its cheaper until you get the ticket
(compared to TnT nights for a weekend brawler that is)
This thread has run a bit off; but I figured I chime in a little with some interseting data
Taken mostly (all) from Tim Skeltons site ; the stock Eaton is already overdriven the way it is setup. Basically; you'll start loosing power with extended sustained usaged of boost. Basically- you start seeing 'dimishing returns'. With a single quarter mile run; that will not be seen right away. But try open course or hot lapping at the track... then you will see my point. Drag racing is where you might re-consider things so you can be more consistent. I really don't know because I'm not chipped.
Another Point. If we shift into 3900 rpm instead of 3600 shouldn't be that big of a deal and I'd take it as peice of mind... I'm more scared of floating a valve than running .1 faster in the 1/4 mile.
Also- isn't the 'peak' torque about 3200 rpm? Torque is what gets you down the track....
Food for thought- nothing more.
enjoy,
John
Taken mostly (all) from Tim Skeltons site ; the stock Eaton is already overdriven the way it is setup. Basically; you'll start loosing power with extended sustained usaged of boost. Basically- you start seeing 'dimishing returns'. With a single quarter mile run; that will not be seen right away. But try open course or hot lapping at the track... then you will see my point. Drag racing is where you might re-consider things so you can be more consistent. I really don't know because I'm not chipped.
Another Point. If we shift into 3900 rpm instead of 3600 shouldn't be that big of a deal and I'd take it as peice of mind... I'm more scared of floating a valve than running .1 faster in the 1/4 mile.
Also- isn't the 'peak' torque about 3200 rpm? Torque is what gets you down the track....
Food for thought- nothing more.
enjoy,
John
You may lose 20 hp on the low end from shifting at 5200 rather than losing 10hp on the top when shifting at 5500.
But how much torque do you lose when you shift at 5500 instead of 5200? I don't have time to look at #'s right now but I would speculate its near 50ft.lbs, nothing to sneeze at.
I suspect cyntax's overal ET will go down (improve - faster ET), but he may experience 10hp's (10hp area over 300 rpm) worth of trap speed to drop as well.
But how much torque do you lose when you shift at 5500 instead of 5200? I don't have time to look at #'s right now but I would speculate its near 50ft.lbs, nothing to sneeze at.
I suspect cyntax's overal ET will go down (improve - faster ET), but he may experience 10hp's (10hp area over 300 rpm) worth of trap speed to drop as well.
Last edited by Tundra; Jul 23, 2003 at 11:49 PM.
Buzz,
Actually my torque doesn't fall off any faster than Cyntaxx's. At 5500 rpm I'm making 360 pound feet of torque to his 350. It's an optical illusion because the values start at different points on the right side of the dyno sheet. His start at 0 on the bottom and mine start at 150. This gives the appearance of a sharper drop but in reality it's not.
The dyno run was done with my street chip which I found out (with Autotap) has 18 degrees of timing in 1st thru 2nd and 16.5 degrees in drive. This is great for wide open blast on the street thru the upper gears but dyno runs are done in drive so it was costing me on the dyno. Amazingly the chip is only 3/4 of a tenth and 3/4 mph slower in the quarter than my agressive warm weather program. The warm weather chip has 21 degrees of timing in all gears. I'll be dyno with the warm weather chip on August the 2nd. I should see bigger numbers.
I don't know how the change from 3:55 to 4:10 gears will affect my dyno numbers. It will be interesting to see how it effects my ET's when it gets cooler.
Actually my torque doesn't fall off any faster than Cyntaxx's. At 5500 rpm I'm making 360 pound feet of torque to his 350. It's an optical illusion because the values start at different points on the right side of the dyno sheet. His start at 0 on the bottom and mine start at 150. This gives the appearance of a sharper drop but in reality it's not.
The dyno run was done with my street chip which I found out (with Autotap) has 18 degrees of timing in 1st thru 2nd and 16.5 degrees in drive. This is great for wide open blast on the street thru the upper gears but dyno runs are done in drive so it was costing me on the dyno. Amazingly the chip is only 3/4 of a tenth and 3/4 mph slower in the quarter than my agressive warm weather program. The warm weather chip has 21 degrees of timing in all gears. I'll be dyno with the warm weather chip on August the 2nd. I should see bigger numbers.
I don't know how the change from 3:55 to 4:10 gears will affect my dyno numbers. It will be interesting to see how it effects my ET's when it gets cooler.
Originally posted by LTNBOLT
The dyno run was done with my street chip which I found out (with Autotap) has 18 degrees of timing in 1st thru 2nd and 16.5 degrees in drive.
The dyno run was done with my street chip which I found out (with Autotap) has 18 degrees of timing in 1st thru 2nd and 16.5 degrees in drive.
Cost?
So how much does this cost and what is the turn around time?I'm going to be putting a 3# on innthe next few weeks I have a modded stock air box K&N drop in filter Magnaflow exhaust with X-pipe and a FTVB.Would I see any benifit.Thanks I've been watching this for a while and it is more steathly when Taking it to the dealer.
Jeff
Jeff
Right now I believe it's $250 but you may want to give Mark @ BOP a call for pricing. And the turn-around time has generally been about 7-10 days. I sent mine out last Tuesday and received it Wednesday.


