When I pulled my head to have a valve repaired I had to remove my waste gate to get to an intake bolt. I have moved it all over the place seeing if it makes a differance, not much. Anyway, someone please tell me how to make sure its correct. I'm hitting the dyno in the morning and I don't no if being out of adjustment will hurt my numbers. Thanks!

 

When did you put a turbo on your L

--Joe

 

Thats what I was told it was called, sorry!:o It sits on the drivers side and has an arm that activates a gate inside the blower. It through a code because I was adjusting it. I can see if I can get a pic of it later.

 

1. Go to this link,
http://home.midsouth.rr.com/lightningpage/tips.html
2. Scroll half way down the page to find the instructions on how to adjust the boost bypass.
3. Send Chuck a thank you for the great instructions.

 

Just messing with ya Tim

FYI.........mine never threw a code when I was messin with it.

--Joe

 

Its amazing! All the work I have done myself on this Lightning and not know what a Boost bypass valve is. I feel like a dummy!:o Thanks for the help!

 

thats some bs

 

Enlighten us with your wisdom.

If you are going to post it then you might as well post the whole thing. This adjustment actually shows better results on a stock pulley truck but that was before your time.

The boost actuator is located on the driver's side of the intake close to the firewall. There are (2) 10mm bolts that hold it in place. One you can see in the pic and the other is on the backside of the actuator closest to the firewall. Pay attention to the slots location in reference to the bolts so you will know where you started. Loosen bolts and raise the actuator up until you see the LEVER raise up off of the STOP. Lower it back down until the LEVER just touches the STOP then tighten bolts. Now, this is the way it was explained to me but I found that set this close the boost gauge would rise to almost "0" while cruising at 80. I went back and readjusted so I could cruise at 80 with no needle movement unless I barely moved the throttle (and I mean barely). This setting was probably halfway between the stock setting and the just touching setting. The first thing I noticed was the needle jumped immediately to 10lbs and climbed from there. Stock it jumped to 9.5lbs and climbed. The total boost also increased by a 1/2lb to 1/4lb more. I also ran a tick quicker with my fastest mph at the track. The temps were warmer and there was less traction (it rained until the track opened). I think this adjustment is worth a small amount of speed. Besides, it's free

 

0 psi is rufly a N/A 5.4 at WOT
i disconected the entire thing so id remaind closed and dont this this happing

 

Actually the only way your going to gain boost even if it's 1/4 to 1/2 pound is if your bypass valve is setup incorrect from the factory and does NOT allow the valve to completely close with loss of vacuum. The boost bypass does NOT produce anymore boost over what the blower will make...under WOT the bypass valve should be closed for maximum boost..

 

Exactly what are you talking about.

 

the psi gauge reads the pressure inside the intake below the blower and compares it to the pressure inside the cab

at WOT in a N/A car the pressure inside the intake is near the pressure of the amiant atmosphere

"i disconected the entire thing so id remaind closed and dont this this happing "
re written
i diconnected the accutator so it remains closed and dont see this happining

 

Jeff,

You're right. A lot of them weren't set right from the factory.

They mainly weren't set that sensitive. Meaning the valve closes at a lower throttle setting causing it to build boost faster.

 

So what you are trying to tell me is that as you go into the throttle your gauge doesn't go from vacuum to "0" to boost.

Don't worry about disconnecting it. Just adjust it like the instructions explain.

 

so u agree its bs?