If i wanted to get slicks??
NOPE
I highly recommend 28 x10 Hoosiers
a 16" x 8 or 16" x 10 Rim
and a good set of Bars along with that Loop
That set up has assured me a 1.6 or 1.7 60 ft time each and everytime I've run it since those Mods. I'm hoping for a 1.5 soon.
Remember every tenth you take away on your 60
SHOULD work out to be @ 2/10th's on your ET
I highly recommend 28 x10 Hoosiers
a 16" x 8 or 16" x 10 Rim
and a good set of Bars along with that Loop
That set up has assured me a 1.6 or 1.7 60 ft time each and everytime I've run it since those Mods. I'm hoping for a 1.5 soon.
Remember every tenth you take away on your 60
SHOULD work out to be @ 2/10th's on your ET
If you decide to run the hoosiers and the same wheels that Rob and I run, buy the Mr Gasket screw kit from Jegs for the rims. Its like $11 and comes with the bit. If you go alumn, the tires will bite on the wheel and most likely you wont need the screw kit.
Hey Mo Fo,
Do you think mine can be spinning ???
I have the cheap Steel Rims as you see, yet no screw kit ???
Maybe thats part of the weird violent launch feeling I've gotten a few times ??? Would my crappy little 12.0's at 1.6 60ft times put me in that catagory where it could become a problem with my set up ???
Do you think mine can be spinning ???
I have the cheap Steel Rims as you see, yet no screw kit ???
Maybe thats part of the weird violent launch feeling I've gotten a few times ??? Would my crappy little 12.0's at 1.6 60ft times put me in that catagory where it could become a problem with my set up ???
If you are making decent power and want good times get a real slick not DOT. I have Hoosier 28x11.5x16(DOT so I can drive them on the street) on 16x8 wheels. They pretty much suck. The best 60 foot I have got was a 1.69 once. Every other time has been mid 1.8's or slower. Maybe I need a wider wheel...I'll probably end up getting mine widened at the end of the year.
Hey Rob, next time you race, simply put a mark with shoe polish on your slicks exactly where your valve stem is, for a reference point. If the mark moves, then you'll need to screw the rims, hope this helps, John H.
Rob
I used a paint stick to mark my ET Streets by the valve stem. They where mounted on the same rims as you use. They never moved on me.
I watched your video again this morning and you can't see any wheelhop/shaking
I used a paint stick to mark my ET Streets by the valve stem. They where mounted on the same rims as you use. They never moved on me.
I watched your video again this morning and you can't see any wheelhop/shaking
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Yea, like the others said, you got to mark em. Im telling you, the suckers still move. Mine were moving sometimes 1/8th of an inch once day at the track, then the next outing, nearly 4 inches. I screwed them and havent had a prob since. Im now getting new traction bars which will help me drastically. Theres nothing like seeing your truck spinning slicks on prime time television
tires
I have Hoosier 28x11.5x16(DOT so I can drive them on the street) on 16x8 wheels. They pretty much suck. The best 60 foot I have got was a 1.69 once. Every other time has been mid 1.8's or slower. Maybe I need a wider wheel...I'll probably end up getting mine widened at the end of the year.
I just got a set off of Don and if i can pull 1.8's consistantly i'll be happy as a pig in ****!!! Since i put the 4lb on i can't get any better than a 2.1 on my f1's and i have traction bars!!!! I haven't had 60's that bad since i got the truck. I was humming "up in smoke" in my head through the 1/8 mile on every run


