All Lower pullies are not created equal (pic)
Originally posted by LightningTuner
I just got a bunch of Metco 4s and 6s in, and they both match our PSP 4s and 6s.
I just got a bunch of Metco 4s and 6s in, and they both match our PSP 4s and 6s.
Thanks
Originally posted by Krix330cic(NJ)
Hey VINNIE, you still have your 8# ring? Drop me a line if you wanna sell it.
Hey VINNIE, you still have your 8# ring? Drop me a line if you wanna sell it.
Still have the 8# on and I am keeping it on, Should work well with my built motor and KB coming soon.
VINNIE
Originally posted by BuzzzLightyear
I have a PSP 6#r, my question is what makes Metco better ? Less rotating mass ? Looks ? Less belt slippage ? Also what are price differences ?
Thanks
I have a PSP 6#r, my question is what makes Metco better ? Less rotating mass ? Looks ? Less belt slippage ? Also what are price differences ?
Thanks
yysenhiemer, the correct pulley sizes should be: 2lb- 8.0, 4lb- 8.5, 6lb-9.0, 8lb- 9.5. Basically, a half inch for every 2 psi increase. I came up with these sizes back in 99 when I was designing the cageless pulleys. I saw about 2psi for every 1/2" as tested on my 99. I think these sizes have become the guidelines, but any of the pulley vendors could change them per thier preference.
Originally posted by Rob_02Lightning
I understand that Doug,
but everyone's (all mfg) should measure the same,
if it's CLAIMED to be the same
I understand that Doug,
but everyone's (all mfg) should measure the same,
if it's CLAIMED to be the same
Sal made his size chart in 99 based on his 99 and the boost it made in NJ with his boost guage. SO thats his standard. For example the same size pulleys on Swansons 2002 test truck in California might net more or less during testing so they may adjust thier ring sizes. Same for REM in Florida they may get diff results.
It would be helpful if the vendors disclosed the circumference ( or diameter) where the belts run. That would be an easy way to make comparisons. BUT then everyone would escalate thier pulley size to make sure customers like you
Originally posted by Rob_02Lightning
are ~ getting ~ the Boost they pay for,
are ~ getting ~ the Boost they pay for,
Last edited by Silver_2000; May 31, 2003 at 02:08 PM.
Originally posted by wkuper11
so my metco 4lber might not be putting out 4 lbs? cool,now I dont feel scared of bolting on the 2.8 upper I just ordered from JL.
so my metco 4lber might not be putting out 4 lbs? cool,now I dont feel scared of bolting on the 2.8 upper I just ordered from JL.
Sal, as usual you always provide
the most useful information! I take it the 8",8.5", and 9" are diameter measurements, not circumfrence? Since you're selling Metco, have they come out with their revised pullies, yet? Thanks!
I purchased a 6lb ring at WFC6 and Ron told me that it was the new updated ring. It was about a 1/4" larger than my JL 5lb'er so I think they finally got it right. I like the Metco interchangeable setup. It takes me about 15 minutes to change out the rings.
Originally posted by VINNIE
Still have the 8# on and I am keeping it on, Should work well with my built motor and KB coming soon.
VINNIE
Still have the 8# on and I am keeping it on, Should work well with my built motor and KB coming soon.
VINNIE
OK all you interchangable guru's.....
Are you guys running different chips/tunes for each pulley, or tuning for the big one, and dealing with the way it effects the other one?
In other words...I have a flip chip and a two pounder. I want a four pounder just for the track. Do I have my chip burned side one street/2lb and side two race/4lb?? Whats the hot ticket guys???
Or if I have my street side burned for my 4, will it run ok with my 2?
Are you guys running different chips/tunes for each pulley, or tuning for the big one, and dealing with the way it effects the other one?
In other words...I have a flip chip and a two pounder. I want a four pounder just for the track. Do I have my chip burned side one street/2lb and side two race/4lb?? Whats the hot ticket guys???
Or if I have my street side burned for my 4, will it run ok with my 2?
Hey now
Aaron,
I had my chip tuned for a 4 before the spring, but didn't actually put the 4 on till a week ago, so I ran it with the 2. Most of the tunning has alot of parameters, but alot of it has to do with load. So if you are running a 2 with a chip tunned for a 4, your not maxing out the parameter of the tune because your notting hitting where it would be with the 4. May run a tad rich, which may mean a tad less power. I am in no way an expert but this is pretty much how it was explained to me (unless I screwed it up) when I called JDM before i went to the track this year for the first time, with the 2 still on. I was very happy with the times i was pulling.
Food for though....wait till you try to change the rings
I would just put the 4 on permanetely like i did. It's very streetable and unless you get on it, not much of an around town difference from a 2-4. You'll just get used to how much quicker you jump in the boost when you do hit it.
I had my chip tuned for a 4 before the spring, but didn't actually put the 4 on till a week ago, so I ran it with the 2. Most of the tunning has alot of parameters, but alot of it has to do with load. So if you are running a 2 with a chip tunned for a 4, your not maxing out the parameter of the tune because your notting hitting where it would be with the 4. May run a tad rich, which may mean a tad less power. I am in no way an expert but this is pretty much how it was explained to me (unless I screwed it up) when I called JDM before i went to the track this year for the first time, with the 2 still on. I was very happy with the times i was pulling.
Food for though....wait till you try to change the rings
I would just put the 4 on permanetely like i did. It's very streetable and unless you get on it, not much of an around town difference from a 2-4. You'll just get used to how much quicker you jump in the boost when you do hit it.


