I agree 100% about using t-bars and d-loop when running any type of slick, but has anyone heard of a 99-00 breaking a steel d-shaft, or are all of the broken d- shafts the aluminum 01 up trucks?

 

I dont recall any steel ones breaking but anytime metal rubs against metal it isnt good.Thats whats happening aluminum or not.The axle twist.

You can check to seee if youve done any damage by looking for shiney pieces of fresh aluminum missing from the rear of the shaft and look at the caps on the u joint closleyto see if the caps are on tight or the ears of the driveshaft seem opened up too much.

 

Thats what happens when you have those crappy aluminum shafts, HAHAHHAHA. steel baby!

 

now you guys got me worried. My NT-555R's go on next week on my 99 and I have not got traction bars yet. If I do not drive hard on them I should be alright correct? I am planning to buy lakewoods soon. The truck is basically stock other than the FTVB, JLP Air Box, and a Boost Bypass.

 

Are traction bars needed if I'm running F1's with a FTVB?
Or rather, would traction bars help F1's?

 

I still say that everyone should invest in a drive shaft loop. It should be one of the first mods in my opinion. With the power that these trucks can make, you never know what will happen.

Just my 2 cents....

 

i made about 200 passes last year with the alum drive shaft and never had a problem, cut as low as 1.60 60' on the stock convertor,

truck traks all the way!

truck wasn't lowered either

 

I like my crappy aluminum drive shaft? It sure beats the hell out of a two piece with a carrier bearing, like on my 86 E-150,,,,98

 

That was a good post! Some of us old guys forget the new people need to hear some of this stuff again.

Good Job!
Alvin

 

Paul's sells rear lowering shackles that correct the pinion angle

http://www.paulshp.com/lightning.htm

it lowers the rear 2" and takes the positive 5degree stock pinion angle and changes it to negative 2 degrees pinion angle.
when you floor it the axle wrap brings it to ZERO degree's or a little positive, but it is much better than stock.

Cheaper than traction bars also.


I'm not endorsing them, becuase I know they are not a supporting vendor, but perhaps one of the support vendors could start carrying this item. HINT HINT>>>>>

BTW: the PHP Chip Dyno Tune on my truck kicks a$$.

 

One of these days, if i ever get some time I will have J.J. install mine that I have had for about 6 months.. And also a driveshaft loop..............

PEacE..............
(Jim)

 

Everybody should have a drive shaft loop, for the safety factor. It doesn't matter which one you buy from our vendors, or you could make one yourself out of stainless steel

 

Crawl under the truck and look at the U-Joint mounts on the driveshaft, The "U" shape at the end of the driveshaft will look like someone has been hitting it with a hammer flattening it out. If you see this, your in trouble.

 

Hello,
I really did not have much of a chance to talk to you at Epping but I was there, If you were the 2nd Gen truck that lost the driveshaft parts then I saw where your U joint was hitting the shaf. I spoke to another racer there and it may actually be your launch thats causing some of the problem.
I think if you are just going from the brake pedal right to the throttle(WOT) with out taking the slack out of the drivetrain you may be putting unnecessary stress on your whole drivetrain and the Ujoints are taking most of the brunt.
I saw one run and I could not tell if you were taking the slack up or not.
when I pull up to the line, I step on the pedal and easy the throttle up to about 1800 rpm until I feel the drivetrain slack run out, I then I release brake and hit Throttle simultaneously when I see my light.
I ran my Gen 1 for years without traction Bars and never had an issue or breakage and I was still making good power.
good luck

 

First mod I did. Bone stock to traction bars. No chances for me. I experienced wheel hop 1X on the street before the traction bars. If anybody is wondering if you should get something or not, you need them.