New Member - Heading to the track for the first time this Sunday!
Hey all. I'm a new member to this forum and a few months ago in February I was finally able to realize a long time dream and picked up a Silver 2000 L w/ 37K miles from a local SVT Dealer in the northern Va area.
My L is still 'stock' and I have only added a K&N panel filter as well as Bilstein shocks at all four corners.
I'm heading over to the Maryland International Raceway(www.mirdrag.com/) this Sunday for their 'Test and Tune' day and I was hoping to get some advice on the best way to race one of these trucks in the 1/4.
Thanks in adavance for your replies.
My L is still 'stock' and I have only added a K&N panel filter as well as Bilstein shocks at all four corners.
I'm heading over to the Maryland International Raceway(www.mirdrag.com/) this Sunday for their 'Test and Tune' day and I was hoping to get some advice on the best way to race one of these trucks in the 1/4.
Thanks in adavance for your replies.
Here are some general tips for a first-timer:
http://modernmusclecars.net/articles/drbasics.html
For our trucks: disconnect the neg. battery cable right after you get to the 'pits'--turn on the headlight sw.--for 5 minutes--turn it off--reconnect the cable, lower rear tire psi to about 28lbs(hot), leave the t/gate on and up, let the eng. cool down as much as you can, go around the 'water box', do a dry hop before staging-to clean off the tires, shallow stage(roll up until the second pre-stage light JUST goes off--helps get a lower et), brake/torque up to about 900-1,000 rpms, GO on the third amber light--DON'T wait for the green light, if the rear tires spin, let off gradually until they grip--keep the truck straight, WOT all the way thru the traps--KNOW WHERE the turn-off(s) are, and NEVER turn around on the track if you miss the turn-off!
Dan
http://modernmusclecars.net/articles/drbasics.html
For our trucks: disconnect the neg. battery cable right after you get to the 'pits'--turn on the headlight sw.--for 5 minutes--turn it off--reconnect the cable, lower rear tire psi to about 28lbs(hot), leave the t/gate on and up, let the eng. cool down as much as you can, go around the 'water box', do a dry hop before staging-to clean off the tires, shallow stage(roll up until the second pre-stage light JUST goes off--helps get a lower et), brake/torque up to about 900-1,000 rpms, GO on the third amber light--DON'T wait for the green light, if the rear tires spin, let off gradually until they grip--keep the truck straight, WOT all the way thru the traps--KNOW WHERE the turn-off(s) are, and NEVER turn around on the track if you miss the turn-off!
Dan
Welcome,
I'll agree with Dan w/the exceptions of:
The batt terminal? (I don't know what thats about? Is that really worth anything Dan? Why?)
And depending on how good the track is for hooking off the line? You might find just going from a dead idle to be of some help if you spin easily.
And last but not least, drill a few 2-3" holes in the bottom of your air box. This dropped me 0.10 and I gained 1mph vs the stock box (K&N panel)
WOT
I'll agree with Dan w/the exceptions of:
The batt terminal? (I don't know what thats about? Is that really worth anything Dan? Why?)
And depending on how good the track is for hooking off the line? You might find just going from a dead idle to be of some help if you spin easily.
And last but not least, drill a few 2-3" holes in the bottom of your air box. This dropped me 0.10 and I gained 1mph vs the stock box (K&N panel)
WOT
Originally posted by wydopnthrtl
And last but not least, drill a few 2-3" holes in the bottom of your air box. This dropped me 0.10 and I gained 1mph vs the stock box (K&N panel)
WOT
And last but not least, drill a few 2-3" holes in the bottom of your air box. This dropped me 0.10 and I gained 1mph vs the stock box (K&N panel)
WOT
Good luck with your track visit, and above all enjoy it safely......
jc
Originally posted by wydopnthrtl
Welcome,
I'll agree with Dan w/the exceptions of:
The batt terminal? (I don't know what thats about? Is that really worth anything Dan? Why?)
And depending on how good the track is for hooking off the line? You might find just going from a dead idle to be of some help if you spin easily.
And last but not least, drill a few 2-3" holes in the bottom of your air box. This dropped me 0.10 and I gained 1mph vs the stock box (K&N panel)
WOT
Welcome,
I'll agree with Dan w/the exceptions of:
The batt terminal? (I don't know what thats about? Is that really worth anything Dan? Why?)
And depending on how good the track is for hooking off the line? You might find just going from a dead idle to be of some help if you spin easily.
And last but not least, drill a few 2-3" holes in the bottom of your air box. This dropped me 0.10 and I gained 1mph vs the stock box (K&N panel)
WOT
Thanks for your post, & of course we're delighted that you're happy. We do look forward to seeing your track times posted as well, & thanks in advance for that!
One quick thing to point out is that if anyone ever wants to do a direct back-to-back comparison to see just what the Superchip is doing for their vehicle on a given day, they way we do that is to do a 3-run format; stock, then chipped, and then stock again, with cooldown times in between to stabilize powertrain temps as well as battery disconnects & draining residual voltage so the computer's memory is fully cleared each time the program is changed (meaning, each time the Superchip is installed or removed). That way, you have a clear picture and directly comparable results, by properly isolating the program changes so there is no "skewing" of the numbers due to the previous program still bein left in the computer's volatile memory. That memory can be kept "alive" for anywhere from 3-5 hours to a day and a half after just doing a battery disconnect, if residual voltage is not drained, so it's important to to the voltage drain too if you want to do a back-to-back type of comparison. The way we do that is to disconnect the battery and then make the program change (either install or remove the Superchip), re-connect the battery and test-fire the engine. Once it starts, shut it back off and then disconnect the battery again. Then turn on the headlights for 5 minutes to drain residual voltage, then shut the headlights back off & re-connect the battery. What that procedure does is to fully clear the computer's memory, and when the power is restored, the computer gets a complete fresh program load, from either the Superchip or it's own internal eeprom chip that stores the factory program. That's the way to get the most accurate & directly comparable results on the same day.
We do have a drag racing tips sheet for Lightning owners that we've just updated, it's basic but it's great for those who aren't experienced professional drag racers. It tells how to do back-to-back comparisons properly, and also goes over staging techniques as well for best consistency, which is needed to do the most accurate back-to-back comparisons, if that is what is desired.
Thanks very much for your posts, good luck & have fun with your 2001 Lighting!
------------------
Mike Troyer
Performance Products, Inc.
National Distributor of Superchips
(540) 862-9515
Email: mtroyer@compuserve.com
Performance Products F150Online Superchip ordering system: F150Online Superchip Ordering System
Dan


