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slicks and t-bars

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Old Mar 22, 2003 | 10:47 PM
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01svtL's Avatar
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From: Sugar Land, Texas
slicks and t-bars

im looking at getting some slicks and traction bars. i've heard good things about the hoosiers and cal-tracks. what do you all think? what do yall like? whats the best price for these? all info is appreciated.
thanks
lata
 
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Old Mar 22, 2003 | 10:51 PM
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i went with JLP lift bars. do a search for traction bars on a thread i started a while back and you'll see a lot of opinions and reviews.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2003 | 11:01 PM
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I agree with cyntaxx
Go with the lift bars, I have the JDM bars, but I hear good things about the JLP ones too.

As for the slicks Hoosier 28x10-16 on 16x10 rims
 
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Old Mar 22, 2003 | 11:28 PM
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The ranchos work great, but as far as tires,the 26x11.5 et street gets me real low 1.6's without having to screw them to the rim or any other b.s.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2003 | 03:05 AM
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I am in the process of installing my JLP bars, it looks like it might be tight drilling for the front brackets.......do I need a right angle drill or how did you other guys do it? Thanks
 
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Old Mar 23, 2003 | 04:37 AM
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Im going to be ordering a set of Johnny's bars.

Spank, i talked to speedin bob a few nights ago and asked him about the front brackets.

He advised using a Carbide bit and be careful with the fuel lines up on the frame rail for the drivers side. The pass side should be a breeze. He also stated drilling Vertical was cake.. It was the horizontal holes that are a PITA.

Take some pics, i would like to see how they turned out.
 

Last edited by Flying Mofo; Mar 23, 2003 at 08:43 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2003 | 08:39 AM
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From: Stinkin Joisey
Originally posted by Flying ****


Spank, i talked to speedin bob a few nights ago and asked him about the front brackets.

He advised using a Carbide bit and be careful with the fuel likes up on the frame rail for the drivers side. The pass side should be a breeze. He also stated drilling Vertical was cake.. It was the horizontal holes that are a PITA.
Sir Speedin is right on the money I found that by using a small (1/8") pilot hole first, it made the drilling alot easier.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2003 | 09:25 AM
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From: On the side of the Road attempting to explain 135 miles per hour
Spank/****

I was able to drill the holes with a regular Craftsman electric drill and a 7/16 Carbide bit. When you feel the bit starting to break through the frame, release some of the pressure on the drill and let it slowly walk itself through. If the bit catches and you don't have a good grip on the drill, it could get abruptly twisted out of your hand.

Be advised, shards of steel WILL be flying... think safety!!!

The drivers side is tricky. One thought would be to put a small piece of 1x4 between the fuel lines and the frame.

Gator,



Bob
 
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Old Mar 23, 2003 | 10:23 AM
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10-4skin Bob
 
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Old Mar 23, 2003 | 10:46 AM
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I used angle iron to make sure that I didn't hit the fuel lines, the drill goes through real quick, and it would $uck to hit a high pressure fuel line.

Also make sure to wear safety glasses. If metal goes in your eye it will rust, then rings will need to be ground off of your eyeball. Don't ask me how I know.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2003 | 11:04 AM
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From: Stinkin Joisey
Originally posted by air1kdf
Also make sure to wear safety glasses. If metal goes in your eye it will rust, then rings will need to be ground off of your eyeball. Don't ask me how I know.
An old welders trick.........a strong magnet
 
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Old Mar 23, 2003 | 12:53 PM
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Thanks guys
 
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Old Mar 23, 2003 | 05:18 PM
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jeez sounds like a tough install. can't wait







good thing i'm not doing it
 
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Old Mar 24, 2003 | 12:00 AM
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Originally posted by Fast Gator
An old welders trick.........a strong magnet
I tried that, had a large rare earth magnet got it so close that it hit my eye, as it turns out the ER removed most of it, then I went to an eye docter to remove the rest and remove the rings (3 days later). The good news is it wasn't a traction bar install that caused it.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2003 | 12:07 AM
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From: La Habra, CA
These work too!

They bolt on in 20 minutes with a 3/4" wrench or socket. No disassembly of the rear and needed.

And the manufacturer lives right up the street.



Best value for your money!

[www.truck-traks.com]
 
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