That I can't answer as I no longer have my "L", makes sense that it would though. It is in that bundle of wires coming out of your PCM harnass behind the battery coming out of the firewall. All you do is splice into that, wire to a switch and wire that to a ground, turn on the key, hit the switch and it should work. Like the post in the link said you are only supplying a ground.

 

How was yours hooked up???

 

Wrong

I'm guessing the relays are after the fuse so any wrong hookups down at the pump feeds back to the relays and then to the fuse. Go from there.

 

you would figure the way a relay works, that power feeding in the opposite direction wouldn't matter because the relay wouldn't activate. I'm assuming that putting a diode in the oem wire going to the pump was virtually eliminate any possible way of there being a problem with feedback into the oem harness???

 

True, but what do the relays do when the vehicle is started?

Oops

 

ok, vehile off scenario...

wire from solenoid to fuse....wire from fuse to switch.....wire from opposing post on switch to power lead on pump...tap in wire.

ok, power can only come to pump through this new setup. Even power going into the oem harness will go to the motor and back up to the relay. Chances are this wont activate the relay because the wire will be connected to the "recieving" terminal of the relay. To solidify this situation, put a diode in the oem harness comming from the relay to the pump, now there is no way the power can leak into any of the oem harness on the other side of this diode. Fuse comming from solenoid ensure any overload will be stopped from frying switch, and wiring associated with the pump. I think we can agree that this is ok here???? Yes....No???

vehicle running scenario.....
power is comming through oem harness to pump.....they way it was engineered to work. Any power leaking through new manual harness will be limited to the jumper wire up to the switch, which could also be eliminated by a diode. Are we ok here??? Yes?..No??

Vehicle running.........turn manual switch on....

this is where there may be a problem ...only if you aren't using diodes. I don't know why you would want to put direct power when the truck is running because the truck is already doing it.

I'm certainly not an electrical genious, so i'm kinda asking and telling in this post. What do you guys think of my theory?

 

Like I said, I just wish you'd would have posted before the relays fried. Let me clarify. Being accustomed to house wiring the white is ground and the black is hot. I didn't color code my wires but when I connected(yes, I knew better but it slipped my mind) the hot to the black and ground to the white it wasn't a problem, other than the pump probably ran backwards, until I was showing a friend the setup while the truck was running. That's when the fuse blew and the relays fried. My most expensive brainfart in the persuit of mods to date.