Error Code 1639
Error Code 1639
Error Code 1639
Anybody have any insight.....I tried Search......Found nothing......
I pulled chip,cleared computer(I thought) prior to going to dealer.
Went in for a driveline noise @ freeway cruising speed. Service
Writer called........mentioned tech was getting Error Code 1639 off PCM. He then went on to ask various mod questions.....I took the 5th on his questions.....................
Anybody have any insight.....I tried Search......Found nothing......I pulled chip,cleared computer(I thought) prior to going to dealer.
Went in for a driveline noise @ freeway cruising speed. Service
Writer called........mentioned tech was getting Error Code 1639 off PCM. He then went on to ask various mod questions.....I took the 5th on his questions.....................
That means that the VID block needs to be flashed. You have corrupted part of the calibration with the chip or something. Ive never personally seen that code, but i just did some reading on it and it seems like theres not too many ways it could happen other than a brand new PCM that hasnt been initialized, or if it was corrupted via the port. (chip).
You mention <<<< the VID block needs to be flashed>>>
Is that the pats , vehicle identification.....??Truck ran great except for cruising noise......If the pcm was flashed
may have accidently happen @ dealership...... Apreciate your Help, thanks again
Vehicle ID block. Its the PCM's eeprom area. Chip may have corrupted it. Just let them do whatever to it as long as its warranty. It should be the same when you get it back and put your chip back in it.
Just Talked w/service writer(again)............He told me tech w/have to re-enter all info to pcm...(wheelsize, etc)....as you said, tech told him the pcm was corrupted. He went on to say process w/take allday...I didn't say anything (but from reading post on this forum I know the process can/and has been done in a few hours)
W/the key in my pocket, left the headlights on and disconnected the neg @ Battery. I then pulled the chip and put the plastic dust cover on the pcm slot. Waited about an hour,
then reconnected battery.
When I started the truck gauges made a full sweep.........(Can't fig what I did wrong)
As long as warranty w/covers repair ...I wont complain
My question is has anyone else ran into this problem....Corrupted pcm, after they went through the above process "To Clear PCM?"
W/the key in my pocket, left the headlights on and disconnected the neg @ Battery. I then pulled the chip and put the plastic dust cover on the pcm slot. Waited about an hour, then reconnected battery.
When I started the truck gauges made a full sweep.........(Can't fig what I did wrong)
As long as warranty w/covers repair ...I wont complain
My question is has anyone else ran into this problem....Corrupted pcm, after they went through the above process "To Clear PCM?"
When I started the truck gauges made a full sweep.........(Can't fig what I did wrong)
That's what they do after a battery disconnect. That tells you it's checking itself. Btw, you don't have to wait an hour, just turn the headlight sw. on after you disconnect the neg. cable and wait 5 mins. Be SURE you turn the h/l sw. OFF before you reconnect the cable.
Dan
That's what they do after a battery disconnect. That tells you it's checking itself. Btw, you don't have to wait an hour, just turn the headlight sw. on after you disconnect the neg. cable and wait 5 mins. Be SURE you turn the h/l sw. OFF before you reconnect the cable.
Dan
Originally posted by LIGHTNINROD
Be SURE you turn the h/l sw. OFF before you reconnect the cable.
Dan
Be SURE you turn the h/l sw. OFF before you reconnect the cable.
Dan
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power drain
has something to do with draining the power. I installed a s/b throttle body at FFW and forgot to plug the tps back in. Drove to get race fuel and though i dropped my tranny at all of 5mph..hehe. Then i remembered what i forgot to do!!! I asked Shawn if they could hook up the scanner to clear the code so i didn't have to wait a half hour, he said to undo the battery and turn the headlamp switch on. 5 minutes later it was gone......
The hood light or leaving a door open would do just as much for killing any residual power as turning the headlights on. Or how about trying to blow the horn, or turning on the key. Or disconnecitng the battery with the key on.
"Or disconnecitng the battery with the key on. "
You will do the above only once...........and then the crying begins. Turn on or hit whatever you want to. The h/l sw. makes the most sense as it put's a very high 'load' on the capacitors to drain any residual power.
Dan
You will do the above only once...........and then the crying begins. Turn on or hit whatever you want to. The h/l sw. makes the most sense as it put's a very high 'load' on the capacitors to drain any residual power.
Dan
Originally posted by LIGHTNINROD
"Or disconnecitng the battery with the key on. "
You will do the above only once...........and then the crying begins.
"Or disconnecitng the battery with the key on. "
You will do the above only once...........and then the crying begins.


