Well i went and ordered the IDQ's for the truck, so 5 is what its all about boys!!!

I also got the kicker unfinished grilles that I'm going to use and have painted to match the truck. That with black carpet, wires and other crap should be here next week!!!!

When most of you guys did the dynamat on yours trucks, how many layers did you use and what expereinces do you have now? I'm about to get that project on way and I just want to know before hand cause I hate that sticky tar!

 

don't use dynamat, use either b-quiet or MMats that's sold on ebay. Make sure you get a roller, a pair of gloves, a heat gun, and a bunch of razor blades. Take your time when doing it because the stuff is unforgiving, once hot and stuck on it's a bitch getting off. I put two layers on the floor, three layers on the back and one on the doors and one layer inside the doors.

 

you so crazy!!

can't wait to see your next finished product rtkilla!

 

All that money to play "Achey Brakey Heart" What a shame....






J/K


VINNIE

 

LOL! Vinnie! That's a classic.

 

RTKILLA,

What are you going to be running for mains pseakers and what kind of power will they have? The reason I ask , is that with that many subs, it will be tough to get a good balance of mid and low end. Another possible problem I see, is the size of the box. In my experience, sub manufacturers over estimate the size of a box on the small size. You can put a sub in a small box, but it's usually at the sacrifice of output. You may be able to get better output and sound quality with fewer subs and more space per sub. Most sound quality systems have a 2 or 3 way system up front and a pair of subs. SQ systems choose high end quality components and keep it very simple. The more drivers in a system the more difficult it is to eliminate cancellation and find a good transition between low end and mid. Good luck in your system and I hope it sounds as good as you are looking for.

 

if you are worried run a good set of 3 way components up front with good power pushing them and you won't have to worry about a thing. CDT is a good company.

 

I got kicker resolutions 5.25" in q-form kick pannels, and I got kicker 5x7 components in the door running at 4ohms stereo with a phoenix Gold ZX450 amp. I got more then enough front stage to handle the subs, they scream!!!!


As for the subs, they can go down into an enclosure thats .35 cubic feet and they really do handle the power and sound good at the size. The IDQ's are kinda famous for that aspec of them, they are very common woofers for tight spaces and they perform great. I have them in my last box that was .75 cubic feet per sub and they didn't sound that great until I made the box smaller to about .5 cubic feet per sub. I can get a .65 cubic feet of space per sub with the size I can pack in there for the box, but I don't need it so I"m not going to use somthing that big. The box is going to be about 60" wide, 10inchs deep on the bottom, 6inches deep on the top and about 13.75 inches tall. I'll be right around .5 cubic feet per sub with woofer displacement. They actually handle allot more power in the smaller enclosure and I'm going to have 300 watts to each sub so .5 is right about perfect. The only thing I do doubt is the woofer cancellation but I'm pretty sure with the box design and the way I'm doing it I won't have that problem. Only way to find out is to test it I guess, I had 3 before in my old setup and they sounded good to me, I just got used to it and wanted more. 1 more sub would have done it, but I figured why not go for a little more and go to the extreme, HAHAHAHHA.

 

RT - whatever you do, DO NOT cover the vents on the back wall with sound deadener. I made this mistake when I had my L. The truck becomes super tight and the doors barely close. There was also a situation that I can't remember the exact events, but I would hear air rushing in through the top of the doors at certain speeds.

On the floor go with a product that has "dynamat" with a foam top. Then go with 2 or 3 layers of standard "dynamat" on the rear wall (minus the vents). I have used B-quiet, Dynamat, and cascade's material in the past, it was a toss up on which I liked better. B-quiets first attempts weren't that good, but now their product is very good at a cheap price.

-Mark

 

Thanks bro, I porbably would have covered those up.

 

You can cover the vents up, but leave a little slit, this will allow for the doors to close easily with the windows up.

 

Joe man,

2 words. You're crazy! But I like it hahhaa.

-Mike

 

That's how I fixed it after the fact. It was a pain because I had to take everything out again

-Mark

 

Have you considered running a 6.5" mid bass speaker in the door? This would help bring your bass forward as opposed to having it all come from the back. It would also give you a better front sound stage. The problem with running 5.25" components in the kicks and 5x7's in the doors is that they will be playing the same frequencies with different sound characteristics and will battle each other to establish a front sound stage, plus 5.25's are usually a little weak on the bass. This could cause you to have to run your subs at a higher crossover and drag your bass to the back of the truck. By running a mid bass up front you will get a smoother transition between the subs and the main speakers and you can run your subs at a lower crossover.

 

Image has the ID v.3 out to replace the IDQ v.2. The ID v.3 has better build quality and materials and 34mm of linear excursion as opposed to the IDQ v.2 with 26mm. Price is pretty much the same.

Heres a link to give ya some pics and info. I wouldn't buy from this guy as the speakers can be found cheaper elsewhere. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1943616198 Also pay no nevermind to the BS large text at the top of the description. http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/website/tech/index.html

Anyone happen to know where to get Q-forms and Thunderforms at a good price? Also do the Q-forms cause any problems with the parking brake pedal?