Ordered my new subs!
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Orland Park, IL just south of chicago
Originally posted by Deus
Image has the ID v.3 out to replace the IDQ v.2. The ID v.3 has better build quality and materials and 34mm of linear excursion as opposed to the IDQ v.2 with 26mm. Price is pretty much the same.
Heres a link to give ya some pics and info. I wouldn't buy from this guy as the speakers can be found cheaper elsewhere. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1943616198 Also pay no nevermind to the BS large text at the top of the description. http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/website/tech/index.html
Anyone happen to know where to get Q-forms and Thunderforms at a good price? Also do the Q-forms cause any problems with the parking brake pedal?
Image has the ID v.3 out to replace the IDQ v.2. The ID v.3 has better build quality and materials and 34mm of linear excursion as opposed to the IDQ v.2 with 26mm. Price is pretty much the same.
Heres a link to give ya some pics and info. I wouldn't buy from this guy as the speakers can be found cheaper elsewhere. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1943616198 Also pay no nevermind to the BS large text at the top of the description. http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/website/tech/index.html
Anyone happen to know where to get Q-forms and Thunderforms at a good price? Also do the Q-forms cause any problems with the parking brake pedal?
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Orland Park, IL just south of chicago
navi man, The front's hold up pretty good for me alone, they have some kick to them. I would love to get a 8inch woofer in the door though 
, that would be some nice mid bass.
Might have to do some custom doors eventually with fiberglass and everything.
, that would be some nice mid bass.Might have to do some custom doors eventually with fiberglass and everything.
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Joined: Apr 2000
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From: College Station, TX
6.5s are easy to fit, just use a piece of 1/4inch mdf and make an adapter plate. Cut out the hole for the driver to fit into. Mark the factory holes and drill the adapter, mount the driver to the adapter then attach the whole assembly to the door with the factory holes. Costs about 2 bucks and takes less than 20 minutes.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Holiday FL
dynamat x-treme is good stuff , I dont know why someone would recomend the other stuff over it. It doesnt need a heat gun to apply, its thicker than hell, is somehwhat forgiving if you mess up, easy to cut with a razor, and just plain works great...but everyone has their favorite of everything I guess 
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Joined: Aug 2001
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From: CA
Originally posted by RTKILLA
the IDQ v.2's are better subs then the new V.3's. they handle allot more power.
the IDQ v.2's are better subs then the new V.3's. they handle allot more power.
I had planned on putting some 8s in the doors on my L but instead decided to keep the install as simple as possible. http://www.onlinecaraudio.net/nd8. Also an Illusion ND12 sub to compliment the ND8.1 component set up front. http://www.onlinecaraudio.net/nd12. Instead I am going all CDT (because I carry the brand and it is awesome gear for the dollar). CDT ES-630 6.5" Braxials up front and CDT CL1015 subs in a thunderform (if I can ever find one!!). http://www.cdtaudio.com
As for damping mats, http://www.raamaudio.com is imo the best stuff for the dollar. He also sells it on ebay under the seller id raam for cheaper. I feel I need to remind people that damping mat is for DAMPING. It only controls resonance and lower frequency sound. You will want a foam/vinyl (or lead) sandwich mat to go along with the damping mat. This will greatly reduce high and mid frequency noise and also act as a gasket between squeeky panels. B-Quiet makes a good asborber/barrier product but it is only for use where it will not get wet.
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From: Orland Park, IL just south of chicago
Originally posted by cyntaxx
rtkilla when do you plan on starting your install and stuff? i might end up going the same route with a big amp and lots of subs..but i cant afford teh IDs
probably like 5 JL w3s
rtkilla when do you plan on starting your install and stuff? i might end up going the same route with a big amp and lots of subs..but i cant afford teh IDs
probably like 5 JL w3s
Well the ID''s are usually cheaper then the JL's anyway. JL cost more for the name.
