Full Review of JDM BILLET AXLE GIRDLE installation
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From: Richmond, VA, USA
Full Review of JDM BILLET AXLE GIRDLE installation
Hi everyone.
I installed the new JDM billet rear axle girdle today.
This is one VERY nice looking part, very solid and beefy design. It fit perfectly.
The question as to wether or not this product is needed on your truck is for you to decide. I do know that under high load (like hard acceleration of a 4800+lb vehicle) the entire rear differential is being driven rearward. I haven't heard of a huge number of 9 3/4 rear axle failures on our trucks, but there is no doubt in my mind that the girdle is a good idea and makes the axle as a whole stronger. Girdles are very common practice when building up a 8.8 rear for mustang drag racing.
the finish has everybody drooling. in fact, I already had to clean the thing before I installed it because after it arrived everyone in the shop had to touch it and pick it up and look at it.
The instructions were clearly written and had actual photos to help clarify the install. They were real photos, not drawings or sketches or even worse nothing at all. The photos were quite easy to see, unlike the instructions on so many aftermarket parts i've installed over the years. I don't know how hard it is to xerox a photo, but some compaines can't do that right. not a problem here.
Stainless steel hardware is included that should hold up and maintain it's appearance (not corrode and rust) in the harsh environment under the truck.
I received the polished bare aluminum finish and I love it. It may get tarnished or oxidize down there, but that is what's nice about bare aluminum, a little elbow grease and some polish and it'll be like new again if it does fade.
the install is easy and shouldn't take long, It took me a couple of hours because I am **** about details on my vehicle and also I had to take alot of photo-oportunity breaks to snap these pictures. If I did another one tomorrow, I can't imagine it would take more than 20-30 minutes to do the whole job.
there is a list of tools needed in the instructions. the only tools or materials I found missing were:
*1 tube of black or grey silicone RTV sealant
*several cans of brake clean or other solvent to clean parts
*torque wrench(es)
so anyway here you go:
starts with this.
remove twelve 13mm bolts and break cover loose.
scrape old silicone from axle housing with razor blade or scotch bright abrasive pad.
I installed the new JDM billet rear axle girdle today.
This is one VERY nice looking part, very solid and beefy design. It fit perfectly.
The question as to wether or not this product is needed on your truck is for you to decide. I do know that under high load (like hard acceleration of a 4800+lb vehicle) the entire rear differential is being driven rearward. I haven't heard of a huge number of 9 3/4 rear axle failures on our trucks, but there is no doubt in my mind that the girdle is a good idea and makes the axle as a whole stronger. Girdles are very common practice when building up a 8.8 rear for mustang drag racing.
the finish has everybody drooling. in fact, I already had to clean the thing before I installed it because after it arrived everyone in the shop had to touch it and pick it up and look at it.
The instructions were clearly written and had actual photos to help clarify the install. They were real photos, not drawings or sketches or even worse nothing at all. The photos were quite easy to see, unlike the instructions on so many aftermarket parts i've installed over the years. I don't know how hard it is to xerox a photo, but some compaines can't do that right. not a problem here.
Stainless steel hardware is included that should hold up and maintain it's appearance (not corrode and rust) in the harsh environment under the truck.
I received the polished bare aluminum finish and I love it. It may get tarnished or oxidize down there, but that is what's nice about bare aluminum, a little elbow grease and some polish and it'll be like new again if it does fade.
the install is easy and shouldn't take long, It took me a couple of hours because I am **** about details on my vehicle and also I had to take alot of photo-oportunity breaks to snap these pictures. If I did another one tomorrow, I can't imagine it would take more than 20-30 minutes to do the whole job.
there is a list of tools needed in the instructions. the only tools or materials I found missing were:
*1 tube of black or grey silicone RTV sealant
*several cans of brake clean or other solvent to clean parts
*torque wrench(es)
so anyway here you go:
starts with this.
remove twelve 13mm bolts and break cover loose.
scrape old silicone from axle housing with razor blade or scotch bright abrasive pad.
Last edited by superfords; Jan 17, 2003 at 10:58 PM.
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or one of these is nice if you have air tools:
get all of the old oil out of the housing and off of the flange. if you leave any oil dripping like this, it could prevent the silicone from sealing properly and you might create an oil leak.
wash the housing flange with brake cleaner or other quick drying solvent and make sure that there is no scrapings or dust/debris inside of the housing on or around the differential. allow to dry.
get all of the old oil out of the housing and off of the flange. if you leave any oil dripping like this, it could prevent the silicone from sealing properly and you might create an oil leak.
wash the housing flange with brake cleaner or other quick drying solvent and make sure that there is no scrapings or dust/debris inside of the housing on or around the differential. allow to dry.
Last edited by superfords; Jan 17, 2003 at 11:00 PM.
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From: The People's Republic of Los Angeles
Re: Full Review of JDM BILLET AXLE GIRDLE installation
Originally posted by superfords
. . . The instructions were clearly written and had actual photos to help clarify the install. They were real photos, not drawings or sketches or even worse nothing at all. The photos were quite easy to see, unlike the instructions on so many aftermarket parts i've installed over the years. I don't know how hard it is to xerox a photo, but some compaines can't do that right. not a problem here. . . .
. . . The instructions were clearly written and had actual photos to help clarify the install. They were real photos, not drawings or sketches or even worse nothing at all. The photos were quite easy to see, unlike the instructions on so many aftermarket parts i've installed over the years. I don't know how hard it is to xerox a photo, but some compaines can't do that right. not a problem here. . . .
Hats off to JDM for clear instructions. Shows that they really care about their products AND their customers.
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take the zinc/gold colored main cap studs and run them through the holes in the housing cover to make sure there are no burrs and that the threads are clean. then apply a thin layer of silicone sealer onto the threads. you want it covering all but the last 1 inch of threads near the allen head end of the stud.
install the studs into the girdle so that the pads are facing the inside of the girdle like this. then apply a thin 1/8" bead of silicone sealer around the flange of the girdle. be sure to apply enough but not so much that it squeezes out everywhere. you can spread it out with your fingers if you like.
be sure that the main cap studs are backed all the way through the girdle. if you install the girdle and tighten it down without these things backed off damage could result to the caps or the girdle! they should look like this.
install the studs into the girdle so that the pads are facing the inside of the girdle like this. then apply a thin 1/8" bead of silicone sealer around the flange of the girdle. be sure to apply enough but not so much that it squeezes out everywhere. you can spread it out with your fingers if you like.
be sure that the main cap studs are backed all the way through the girdle. if you install the girdle and tighten it down without these things backed off damage could result to the caps or the girdle! they should look like this.
Last edited by superfords; Jan 17, 2003 at 11:02 PM.
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install the cover using the 12 stainless steel allen head bolts and washers. torque down to 25-35 ft/lbs. recommend alternating tightening bolts back and forth across the cover until all are snugged and then go back and recheck torque.
after the cover is bolted down it is time to adjust and set the main cap/girdle studs. this is the only part of the directions I found somewhat difficult to follow. I'll show you how I did it. however, (disclaimer)I am not recommending anyone vary from the JDM instructions without consulting them first.
run the studs down by hand untill you feel them contact the main caps. then tighten the studs to 5ft/lbs MAX! I used an inch/lb torque wrench (5ftlbs = 60inch/lbs). Overtightening here could damage the girdle or cause premature carrier bearing wear or failure or might even fracture crack the carrier bearing caps!
after the cover is bolted down it is time to adjust and set the main cap/girdle studs. this is the only part of the directions I found somewhat difficult to follow. I'll show you how I did it. however, (disclaimer)I am not recommending anyone vary from the JDM instructions without consulting them first.
run the studs down by hand untill you feel them contact the main caps. then tighten the studs to 5ft/lbs MAX! I used an inch/lb torque wrench (5ftlbs = 60inch/lbs). Overtightening here could damage the girdle or cause premature carrier bearing wear or failure or might even fracture crack the carrier bearing caps!
Last edited by superfords; Jan 17, 2003 at 11:03 PM.
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now install the two large washers and two large stainless locknuts. Use a hex head/allen wrench to hold the stud in position while you use a 3/4 open end or box end wrench to tighten the locknuts.
I marked my studs (with a dab of sonic blue touch up paint!) to make sure that they did not exceed the 5ft/lb max torque that we set earlier. with that marking in place I then got my torque wrench and a 3/4 socket and set the lock nuts at 25ft/lbs. the instructions then call for an additional 1/16th turn after reaching the 25ft/lb mark. I then rechecked the marks I made on my studs to make sure they still hadn't moved any tighter.
now tighten your drain plug and you are finished with this part of the install! congratulations!
I marked my studs (with a dab of sonic blue touch up paint!) to make sure that they did not exceed the 5ft/lb max torque that we set earlier. with that marking in place I then got my torque wrench and a 3/4 socket and set the lock nuts at 25ft/lbs. the instructions then call for an additional 1/16th turn after reaching the 25ft/lb mark. I then rechecked the marks I made on my studs to make sure they still hadn't moved any tighter.
now tighten your drain plug and you are finished with this part of the install! congratulations!
Last edited by superfords; Jan 17, 2003 at 11:04 PM.
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next you need to refill your axle with gear oil. I pulled the fill hole on the front/driver side of the axle housing so I could monitor the fluid level. the instructions tell you to fill the axle here, but I have found it easier/cleaner to remove the abs sensor at the top of the housing and pour the fluid in from the top. this is totally up to you.
the truck took EXACTLY 3 quarts of the recommended SYNTHETIC 75-140 gear oil. I should note here that the instructions (and Ford) call for a bottle or two of Friction modifier be added to the axle. This additive is designed to make the clutches in the rear quieter by helping them to slip, your trac-lok will actually perform better without it. I left it out, but again check with JDM before straying from their instructions.
the truck took EXACTLY 3 quarts of the recommended SYNTHETIC 75-140 gear oil. I should note here that the instructions (and Ford) call for a bottle or two of Friction modifier be added to the axle. This additive is designed to make the clutches in the rear quieter by helping them to slip, your trac-lok will actually perform better without it. I left it out, but again check with JDM before straying from their instructions.
Last edited by superfords; Jan 17, 2003 at 11:06 PM.
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check the fluid level on the housing fill plug and reinstall your abs sensor if you removed it.
take a clean rag and wipe any excess oil,silicone,fingerprints off of your girdle.
then stand back and watch it BLING
later,
chris
P.S. I may have to remove my trailer hitch just so more people can see this thing gleaming under there!
take a clean rag and wipe any excess oil,silicone,fingerprints off of your girdle.
then stand back and watch it BLING
later,
chris
P.S. I may have to remove my trailer hitch just so more people can see this thing gleaming under there!
Last edited by superfords; Jan 17, 2003 at 11:07 PM.
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From: Scarborough,Me. USA
Chris,
Great write up and some awesome pictures, the Sonic Blue is a sweet color..
I can't wait to see my new JDM cover when I get my truck back. It looks and sounds like it is another great part...
Bill
Great write up and some awesome pictures, the Sonic Blue is a sweet color..
I can't wait to see my new JDM cover when I get my truck back. It looks and sounds like it is another great part...
Bill
