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What's the trick to getting rear rotors off?

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Old Jan 5, 2003 | 06:58 PM
  #16  
thepawn's Avatar
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From: Clifton, NJ, USA
Nice Tim. You're begining to leave me behind on the road-handling work! :P

Daniel
 
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Old Jan 5, 2003 | 07:11 PM
  #17  
Tim Skelton's Avatar
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From: The People's Republic of Los Angeles
Originally posted by thepawn
Nice Tim. You're begining to leave me behind on the road-handling work! :P

Daniel
Thanks, Daniel, but you have one thing I can't buy: seat time. You'd kick my butt ten times out of ten.

Talk to me in about a year, though.

On a related matter (Brembo install), do I really have to buy new rear seals for the front hubs? My truck only has about 7K on the odo.

Also, is there any way to keep any part of the dust shield? I would like to keep enough to mount these rotor hats for ducts.




And how long should I budget for the Brembo job? And do I need any special tools? The Brembo instructions are useless.

Thanks,
TLS
 
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Old Jan 7, 2003 | 02:11 PM
  #18  
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From: Clifton, NJ, USA
Originally posted by Tim Skelton
Thanks, Daniel, but you have one thing I can't buy: seat time. You'd kick my butt ten times out of ten.

Talk to me in about a year, though.

On a related matter (Brembo install), do I really have to buy new rear seals for the front hubs? My truck only has about 7K on the odo.

Also, is there any way to keep any part of the dust shield? I would like to keep enough to mount these rotor hats for ducts.

And how long should I budget for the Brembo job? And do I need any special tools? The Brembo instructions are useless.

Thanks,
TLS
Hehe, thx for the vote of confidence. One of these days we'll be able to meet up at an event...

I didn't do my actual install, but I was around for parts of it, so I'll speak from what I know.

From what I understand, you don't have to use new seals, I am pretty sure that Silver-Bolt reused his. You can keep part of the dust shield if you ahve the time to play with it while installing it. Cutting it was the easiest way, but you can bend and trim, etc. It would just take longer to do. The only "special tool" you really need is a brake bleeder for when you're all done, everything else is a basic brake swap, just with some new pieces. Do you have an F150 shop manual?

Daniel
 
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Old Jan 7, 2003 | 03:39 PM
  #19  
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Tim,
The install will take about 2 hours. Nothing real challenging. I did install new bearings, races, and seals. I cost about $50 for all the parts and was worth the piece of mind. I am a little old school in that you should never mix bearings and races. Allways match (new for new). The seals were like $4.00 and take about 2 minutes to install them. Easier to replace them now than later should one get messed up. I was able to retain 100% of my dust shields. I only had to do a minor tweek to clear the inside rotor surface. I have about 3/16" clearance now. No problems. Check my gallery for some photos and I can send you more if you like. Buzz me if you get stuck, but you won't. I switched to ATE Super-Blue fluid and blead the whole system.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2003 | 10:57 PM
  #20  
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Thanks to both Daniel and Silver-Bolt. My confidence is boosted.

I just hate getting into a project and having surprises. My L is my daily driver (right now my bike is not here), so I can't afford to have things go wrong. And everything takes about 5 times longer than it should.

Example: I spent 15-20 hours just replacing the panhard rod, adjusting the rear sway, undercoating the axle and surrounding area, running a diff temp sender, changing the rear rotors, painting the calipers, and installing one side of the Metco bars. I was planning on getting done before lunch Saturday, but was not done until late Sunday night--greasy, cut, bruised, and tired.

I'm getting too old for this sh^t.

Thanks, guys.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2007 | 12:49 AM
  #21  
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From: Waggaman Louisiana
Originally Posted by LightningTuner
Tim, what I used to do when I worked at the dealer, is spray the hub area and the lug areas with WD-40, let it sit for about 10 minutes, and then whack the hub pad area of the rotor with a large METAL hammer, not a dead blow. Do not hit the surface part of the rotor, and do not use heat. They come off everytime. Also just do a quick visual and make sure you don't have any rotor retainer clips on there (slipped over the studs).
Thanks Sal.
Had to change out a rear rotor tonight and I couldn't get it off for the life of me. I did a search and found this thread and we all lived happily ever after.....goodnight.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2007 | 10:31 AM
  #22  
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Sal is 100% correct, one should never mix and match old with new. For the pennies saved it just isn't worth it.....
 
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Old Apr 8, 2007 | 11:38 AM
  #23  
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Man, memory lane. I am so far beyond where I was back then, it's amazing.

I coated the rear rotors with anti-seize on the part that contacts the axle stub. Comes off with hand pressure every time.

Anti-seize is a miracle compound. I use it on just about every bolt that is not getting Loctite.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2007 | 01:03 PM
  #24  
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From: Murray , Kentucky


Bigger hammer. LOL
 
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