Anybody have any suggestions. I am trying to remove the rear wheel. One nut is turning very tight to release. But is not getting looser, just revolving around.

Thanks

 

Maybe you tightened it too much and it is stripped

--Joe

 

Could be, Any idea on how to remove it as it will not tighten or loosen?

thank's

 

man sorry to hear that, but it sounds like it is stripped, time to get out a grinder or torch and cut it off and then go find a new stud .....

wait on second thought, the lug nut is recessed in the rim ... I dont know how to go about getting that off .... there must be some kind of tool out there ...

 

I had this problem last year on my daily beater car. Just keep loosening and tightening the lug nut. Eventually you will break off the stud. It's a beotch but it will keep you from damaging the wheel. Studs are only a few bucks.

 

Thanks guys, It's gonna be real hard to do this and not damage the rim.

 

Thanks Frank, that sounds like a plan, no way i can cutit off without wheel damage.

 

use an impact wrench and turn it up all the way then break the stud, this will only work if you can still tighten it though other wise i guess your SOL? the last time this happened to me at work i had to get an acetelyne torch and fry the little bastard off

 

Hilander,

Have seen this many times,, if the threads on the stud or nut are stripped: as mentioned before try an impact gun working back and forth to snap it off BUT... If the stud is spinning in the hub (serrated area on stud stripped) try: putting pressure on the stud with the wheel by pulling on it while you try to spin off the lug nut, you are trying to put enough pressure on the "end" of the stud (serrated area) to stop it from spinning with the lug nut. Sometimes this is a two man job.. One person pulling on the wheel/tire assembly the other person operating the air gun, try not to heat up the wheel face @ the lug nut and damage wheel.

Goodluck Jon

 

AHHHHHHHH good old German Torq Method "Goodentight"

When in doubt, turn it till it strips, then back it off a 1/8 of a turn.

~Toast

 

I would expect the stud has stripped at its flange embedment as suggested above. Apply a drop of oil at the base of the wheel nut with a flat blade screw driver, to inhibit galling on the wheel, and use the above technique, removing all but the stripped nuts, then pulling on the opposite side of the tire that the nut is on to lock the wheel stud head to the axle flange so it will hold and not turn. Apply only enough pressure on the tire (leverage on the stud) to prevent the stripping action. You will have to feel how the nut is turning to judge how much leverage to apply, (ie threading vs. stripping action).
Don't know if axle can slide out after caliper is removed then grind flange face off. Would require removing locking key in diff., not too hard.
Then use anti-sieze compound on wheel nuts.

 

You might try to get a die grinder in there with a cutoff wheel.
Protect the wheel with duct tape.

If you can, cut as much of the nut as you can, along it's length. Then do it again on the opposite side. This might be enough to release the nut from the threads, so it will pry off.

 

Then use anti-sieze compound on wheel nuts

YES!

Dan

 

Thanks again, It came off with no damge, weird, anyway as the bolt has turned in the hub I am going to replace it. (The bolt that is)
Dealer has no 14 mm bolts for the 2000L, So having one sent for tomorrow...geeez.
My question is, Should i just unbolt the rear brakes remove the disc. Then when replacing the bolt do i install it by hitting it on with a hammer? Should i heat it first? Any advice again would be appreciated.

 

AS I recall, the axle has to slide out for stud access as mentioned above. Stud must be pressed in, don't think any hand clamps will work. Also, verify correct stud PN YL3Z-1107--AB.