SENIOR MEMBER NEEDS HELP PLEASE about lowering leafs and coils and shocks...
I think Spike and I were the first to try the Hotchkis. I like mine but stock shocks are not an option. Payload is rated at 800 lbs. I have had 1000 lbs in the back and did not bottom (smooth road). Launching I think is a wash. You lose a little do to stiffness but you also gain a little do to a more linear motion. The more leafs in your spring stack the more arc your axle will make through it's range of motion. The Hotchkis is a two leaf stack that has very minimal swing. To do it all over again I would scap the rear axle and slip in a built 8.8" and 4-link. Shocks are the weak link. The sway bars would be the last item to add. Try thr Hotchkis fronts, Ruslows sliders, QA-1's (also Ruslow), and Ruslows pan-hard bar. I doubt you will still need the sway bars. For me the pan-hard did more to stabilize the truck than the Hotchkis bars did.
Silver-bolt,
I'm just curious, but I've seen your set-up or a similar set-up on a number of trucks. Is there a specific reason to use Hotchkis front coils over Ruslow's coils? Everything except the coils came from Ruslow anyway.
Chris
I'm just curious, but I've seen your set-up or a similar set-up on a number of trucks. Is there a specific reason to use Hotchkis front coils over Ruslow's coils? Everything except the coils came from Ruslow anyway.
Chris
Re: SVT_KY totally Amazed /w JDM Bypass! j/k
Originally posted by SVT_KY
. . . Since after the install, the rear was resting on the stock
bumper "Beehives" I removed them and wnet in search
of some replacements. The truck really rode hard with
nothing back there, I assume because it was hitting the
frame on every bump.
After failing to find a suitable replacement (The '99 F150
bumpstops are $20.00 EA from FORD) I saw someone
post that they just used the OLD front ones in the rear.
Sunday I did this as well as change my drop shackles to
the second hole (2" original -- now 1" ???) and the
difference was amazing. No more bone jarring ride,
and the truck is like a magnet on the road. Maybe this
is why ROUSH doesn't ship rear bump stops, eh?
. . . <grin>
. . . Since after the install, the rear was resting on the stock
bumper "Beehives" I removed them and wnet in search
of some replacements. The truck really rode hard with
nothing back there, I assume because it was hitting the
frame on every bump.
After failing to find a suitable replacement (The '99 F150
bumpstops are $20.00 EA from FORD) I saw someone
post that they just used the OLD front ones in the rear.
Sunday I did this as well as change my drop shackles to
the second hole (2" original -- now 1" ???) and the
difference was amazing. No more bone jarring ride,
and the truck is like a magnet on the road. Maybe this
is why ROUSH doesn't ship rear bump stops, eh?
. . . <grin>
I bought some neat Energy Suspension bump stops at Pep Boys:
I like the progressive nature of the stops.
Re: SENIOR MEMBER NEEDS HELP PLEASE about lowering leafs and coils and shocks...
Originally posted by superfords
. . . 1. I don't want to cut the payload down to nothing (ala Roush 400lbs). I was under the impression from a few folks that the Hotchkis was rated at 800lb payload. But I called Terry at http://www.performanceresearchonline.com/ and he tells me that the hotchkis cuts it down around 400lbs as well. If I only needed to carry 400lbs I'd buy a Cobra. This isn't a work truck, but I want to be able to carry a load if need be. I have called Hotchkis and sent e-mails but it has been over the holidays and supposedly they are doing inventory and I can't get in touch with an actual person.
2. tim skelton's website and terry at above road racing lightning place in texas tell me that the hotchkis springs are too stiff and my 60'fts will suffer significantly? But my '01 cut consistant 1.81s with a best of 1.78 with the hotchkis setup ON F1s! and no traction bars! was that truck just a fluke or are others getting crappy 60fts with the hotchkis?
3. If I lower the truck 1/2 with the hotchkis, what QA1s do I use? I have part numbers TC1538P for the front and TC1610P for the rear, these are stock height p/ns will this moderate lowering kit require shorter shocks? I have called HAL/QA1 and they say that they want me to drop the truck and then measure and calle them back! I'm sure several of you have already used these exact parts or else the alternate front TC1955Ps which are slightly shorter? do I want the stock length ones for increased front end travel at the strip on launches? . . .
. . . 1. I don't want to cut the payload down to nothing (ala Roush 400lbs). I was under the impression from a few folks that the Hotchkis was rated at 800lb payload. But I called Terry at http://www.performanceresearchonline.com/ and he tells me that the hotchkis cuts it down around 400lbs as well. If I only needed to carry 400lbs I'd buy a Cobra. This isn't a work truck, but I want to be able to carry a load if need be. I have called Hotchkis and sent e-mails but it has been over the holidays and supposedly they are doing inventory and I can't get in touch with an actual person.
2. tim skelton's website and terry at above road racing lightning place in texas tell me that the hotchkis springs are too stiff and my 60'fts will suffer significantly? But my '01 cut consistant 1.81s with a best of 1.78 with the hotchkis setup ON F1s! and no traction bars! was that truck just a fluke or are others getting crappy 60fts with the hotchkis?
3. If I lower the truck 1/2 with the hotchkis, what QA1s do I use? I have part numbers TC1538P for the front and TC1610P for the rear, these are stock height p/ns will this moderate lowering kit require shorter shocks? I have called HAL/QA1 and they say that they want me to drop the truck and then measure and calle them back! I'm sure several of you have already used these exact parts or else the alternate front TC1955Ps which are slightly shorter? do I want the stock length ones for increased front end travel at the strip on launches? . . .
2. I don't recall opining on 60' times or launch--my only relevant observation is that the stiff springs and shocks cause the rear to chatter more on rough pavement. I doubt this would be a problem at any self-respecting drag strip.
3. The stock shocks measured eye-to-eye per QA1's instructions with the Hotchkis installed were (on ground/on lift) front: 14 3/8, 16.0; rear 19 3/4, 23.0. But I would still order them through Stan Martin. He will make sure you get the right shocks and you can order his trick rear mounts.
Good luck on your lowering exploits.
p.s. -- I'm not done yet. Bought some DJM upper and lower control arms for another 1" or so in the front. Going to add 1/2" shackles in the rear for another inch or so. I think a 2/3 drop is just about right visually for my '01. With the Hotchkis leafs, you should be at the same ride height on your '03, as it appears that the leafs were the only things which were changed.
as a side note, that makes 2 mentions of using aftermarket lower control arms that I have heard. I am a little leary of tubular control arms for this reason: look closely at the front wheel in the picture.
I've personally had one fail while I was driving, luckily I was just backing out of my parking spot, I could have been driving down a two way street at speed or taking an exit ramp, or who knows? I could have lost control and braking at speed and gone into oncoming traffic! Frankly, this was on a comparatively lightweight stang, our trucks weigh a ton, thats why the stock lower control arms are so beefy. I wouldn't even think of using tubular arms on my truck, there's alot of stress on that part when turning and braking a 5000lb vehicle. just my .02
later,
chris
I've personally had one fail while I was driving, luckily I was just backing out of my parking spot, I could have been driving down a two way street at speed or taking an exit ramp, or who knows? I could have lost control and braking at speed and gone into oncoming traffic! Frankly, this was on a comparatively lightweight stang, our trucks weigh a ton, thats why the stock lower control arms are so beefy. I wouldn't even think of using tubular arms on my truck, there's alot of stress on that part when turning and braking a 5000lb vehicle. just my .02
later,
chris
From reading tim skelton's site (excellent site, great job tim. It's everything you need to know for a true all around performance lightning buildup. I would consider a Lightning Bible. Everyone go to tim's site NOW!
), And also from reading posts here, NLOC, Lightningforums.com FLA SVT, and any other place on the internet with good information, here is what i concluded would be an ideal handling setup. Not sure about load capability and comfort.
Hotchkis rear leaf springs and swaybars
Ruslow 1100Lb Front Springs
QA1 shocks from stan too
Ruslow Panhard Bar
Traction Bars (pick your favorite. Theoretically none should interfere with handling and most should aid it slightly by keeping the geometry in place
For load capacity, maybe some helper airbags if you need to tow or carry heavy loads and need a level, well beahved truck.
(I think hellwig makes a setup)
Any thoughts from someone with a similar setup would be great.
), And also from reading posts here, NLOC, Lightningforums.com FLA SVT, and any other place on the internet with good information, here is what i concluded would be an ideal handling setup. Not sure about load capability and comfort. Hotchkis rear leaf springs and swaybars
Ruslow 1100Lb Front Springs
QA1 shocks from stan too
Ruslow Panhard Bar
Traction Bars (pick your favorite. Theoretically none should interfere with handling and most should aid it slightly by keeping the geometry in place
For load capacity, maybe some helper airbags if you need to tow or carry heavy loads and need a level, well beahved truck.
(I think hellwig makes a setup)
Any thoughts from someone with a similar setup would be great.
Originally posted by superfords
as a side note, that makes 2 mentions of using aftermarket lower control arms that I have heard. I am a little leary of tubular control arms for this reason: look closely at the front wheel in the picture. . . .
as a side note, that makes 2 mentions of using aftermarket lower control arms that I have heard. I am a little leary of tubular control arms for this reason: look closely at the front wheel in the picture. . . .
Thanks for the heads up, though.
Originally posted by MISTERgadget
From reading tim skelton's site (excellent site, great job tim. It's everything you need to know for a true all around performance lightning buildup. I would consider a Lightning Bible. Everyone go to tim's site NOW!
), And also from reading posts here, NLOC, Lightningforums.com FLA SVT, and any other place on the internet with good information, here is what i concluded would be an ideal handling setup. . . .
From reading tim skelton's site (excellent site, great job tim. It's everything you need to know for a true all around performance lightning buildup. I would consider a Lightning Bible. Everyone go to tim's site NOW!
), And also from reading posts here, NLOC, Lightningforums.com FLA SVT, and any other place on the internet with good information, here is what i concluded would be an ideal handling setup. . . .
I went with the full Hotchkis kit, and the QA1 shocks based on my own research, and in no small part Tim Skelton’s site (Thanks Tim). After 1500 trouble free miles, I know I made the right decision. I have no idea why Hotchkis keeps telling people that the stock Bilstein’s will work fine.
I am now patiently awaiting Tim’s results with the control arms before finding my additional 1’ drop. I understand that I am not going to get a M3 out of a crew cab truck, but I do place my suspension priorities on handling.
I am now patiently awaiting Tim’s results with the control arms before finding my additional 1’ drop. I understand that I am not going to get a M3 out of a crew cab truck, but I do place my suspension priorities on handling.
Ayrton, have you experienced any of the oversteer tendencies that seem to be part of this hotchkis kit?
If so, is it prominent at all speeds, or only a gremlin that rears its head at high or low speed?
how does the truck feel in spirited street driving up to about 60mph in sweepers? planted?
If so, is it prominent at all speeds, or only a gremlin that rears its head at high or low speed?
how does the truck feel in spirited street driving up to about 60mph in sweepers? planted?
Originally posted by MISTERgadget
Ayrton, have you experienced any of the oversteer tendencies that seem to be part of this hotchkis kit?
If so, is it prominent at all speeds, or only a gremlin that rears its head at high or low speed?
how does the truck feel in spirited street driving up to about 60mph in sweepers? planted?
Ayrton, have you experienced any of the oversteer tendencies that seem to be part of this hotchkis kit?
If so, is it prominent at all speeds, or only a gremlin that rears its head at high or low speed?
how does the truck feel in spirited street driving up to about 60mph in sweepers? planted?
Mostly, I got fantastic four-wheel drifts. The back end only came around once, and that was on a tight off-camber turn with marbles on the surface (I saved it and didn't even hit a cone).This was confirmed by several other drivers who took a turn with my truck, one of which was the runner-up at the SCCA Pro Solo national championships this year.
I previously had only slight oversteer issues--it just made the truck feel a little "spooky" at speeds. Bringing the rear anti-sway bar up towards the frame with the So-Cal links seems to be what got rid of that feeling.
The only reason I sugessted the Hotchkis front springs vs Ruslow's is the spring rate. He stated he did not want too stiff of ride. I figure the 850lb Hotchkis would be about as stiff as you would want to go. Throw in urethane bushings and 1100lb springs things get pretty stiff for a daily driver. Myself I like that. Most do not. For all out handling the 1100's would be a better choice.
Now you guy's have me worried about the Roush setup I purchased. It came in and I was just waiting for the new truck to come in. Is my truck going to ride like a tank? I wanted a lower and better handling truck but not if it is going to beat me to death! That's why I bought a Roush kit....I thought if it came from Roush it would be perfect.
Jerry
Jerry
well, thanks everyone, I guess I made up my mind. I've ordered the Hotchkis springs (front and rear) and decided to try their sway bars this time. expensive, but if nothing else lightweight and larger diameter bars.
I've sent an e-mail to ruslow (stan?) asking about getting some shocks and hardward/mounting equipment.
BTW, if anybody cares, Summit has the QA1s for only $139.95 each! thats only 559.80 for a set versus anywhere from $650-$900 a set from "others".
later,
chris
I've sent an e-mail to ruslow (stan?) asking about getting some shocks and hardward/mounting equipment.
BTW, if anybody cares, Summit has the QA1s for only $139.95 each! thats only 559.80 for a set versus anywhere from $650-$900 a set from "others".
later,
chris
Originally posted by superfords
well, thanks everyone, I guess I made up my mind. I've ordered the Hotchkis springs (front and rear) and decided to try their sway bars this time. expensive, but if nothing else lightweight and larger diameter bars.
I've sent an e-mail to ruslow (stan?) asking about getting some shocks and hardward/mounting equipment.
BTW, if anybody cares, Summit has the QA1s for only $139.95 each! thats only 559.80 for a set versus anywhere from $650-$900 a set from "others".
later,
chris
well, thanks everyone, I guess I made up my mind. I've ordered the Hotchkis springs (front and rear) and decided to try their sway bars this time. expensive, but if nothing else lightweight and larger diameter bars.
I've sent an e-mail to ruslow (stan?) asking about getting some shocks and hardward/mounting equipment.
BTW, if anybody cares, Summit has the QA1s for only $139.95 each! thats only 559.80 for a set versus anywhere from $650-$900 a set from "others".
later,
chris


