Santa brought me a Tamiya R/C lightning.

I am looking for a second body for it and recommendations on a ESC (electronic speed control. )

Seems the body is discontinued. And there are so many ESC's to choose from that it is mind numbing. I want a decent reversing ESC that will handle a 16 turn or so motor.... For less than $100 preferably

Anyone have any ideas ??

I am going to be learning to airbrush with this and know full well I will screw up the first body and want another to make it right.

Doug

PS - Maybe the thing to do it get a cobra R body http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/58228.pdf
and paint it first since it will fit the chassis.

I am amazed at the cost of the bearing kit. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGJ43
3/4 the cost of the truck...

 

Doug, contact Bill Murray, I know he'll be happy to hook you up with the right items. He's helped a lot of us here.

Unless you are planning to do something custom, like flames or graphics, I wouldn't worry about the airbrushing. With clear lexan bodies, you paint the inside. Get some good quaility brushes, in a few different sizes. Paint the bed cover, rear bumper top, and seam between the bed and cab with brushes. Then mask off the windows from the inside, and spray the entire underside of the body with your body color. Heck you can even brush the underside if you want, it just takes a bit longer.

I got a bearing set for like $20 off ebay from TeamBlueStar Racing. A 16 turn motor is a good choice. I have a 10 turn wet magnet motor that I had left over from my R/C racing days years ago in mine, and the thing is so powerfull that the slightest throttle sends it into a 4 wheel burnout/doughnut fury. It's practically undrivable.

Hope this helps.

 

Doug:

Sorry I lost our last contact re: the Lightning bodies. The Tamiya body is discontinued as you say but any standard 1/10 body will fit the chassis so choose what else you like.

Store is closed today but I will try to email you tomorrow with some suggestions for an ESC. You are also correct that the market is all of a sudden flooded with good quality stuff in that area. Two years ago you had 2-3 to choose from and now it is more like 20.

A 16 turn is about like a stock L and a 10 turn like Sal and I have is like the full PSP treatment. The trucks are just as uncontrollable as Sal says but what a kick. Drawback is you have to have a high dollar ESC and without reverse, just brakes.
Bill

 

The HPI body is nice. Its an F150 Flareside, only problem is no lightning decals, im still trying to find some. HPI Racing

 

As far as the speed control goes i would reccomend a Tekin but I cant find anything, I did find one from associated that says it handles 13+ turn motors. Click here.

 

Guys thanks forthe tips they are great .. Keep em coming

Bill - I appreciate your help. I know you are busy during the holidays and didnt want to bother you any more.

SpankDog - Ill take a look at that one.

A ten turn motor would be nice but it will just burn through the batteries faster...

Doug

 

Doug:

When you own the Hobby Shop, batteries just don't matter

Just like Sal and chips, we both have baskets of our "consumables"

On a more serious note, the newer NMH (Nickel/metal/hydride) batteries that are rated for ~2500 horsepower as opposed to the stockers at 1500 have a quite longer run time even against a modified motor. I'll shoot you the hot setup and you can choose. It ain't cheap but it's fun.

I will try my contacts at Tamiya to see if they have any decal sets I can buy and pass on. No promises but they have helped me out before.
Bill

 

That would be great.


I'll double check later, but i have a 10 turn triple wind Reedy motor with a tekin G-9 speed control and a Trinity 6 cell 3000mAh Nickel-Metal Hydride Battery Pack and it runs around 15 minutes. WAYYYYY longer than a standard Ni-Cad battery. Ditch the Tamiya style plugs and get some Deans plugs if your going to be running a motor like that. (doug)

 

What you said, Mike:

Just like a real L, the more mods the more little stuff you have to attend to like connectors etc. A lot of my customers, for example, have switched to FM controllers just to protect their investment. The FM is almost glitch free and has a stronger signal and there are so many frequencies compared to AM that the chance of getting crossed up with someone else on the same frequency is greatly reduced.

Tires, moreso than wheels, are also a great mod just like on the real thing. I run stockers on mine just to enjoy the violence as I don't race anyone except for grins. $50 would make a whole different vehicle with the motors and batteries you, Sal and I have.

BTW, when you going to come over to Kennesaw and drool over not only my HobbyTown USA but also my "oh so stock" Blackwood? (Gotta get that darn chip installed
Bill

 

WHoa i had no idea you were in GA, i would love to come by someday and meet you. I haven't messed with my R/C car in forever but I am trying to make it as much like my truck as I can and then sometimes i buy stuff for it. As far as racing goes ive never actually raced it but I like to chase down cars in the neighborhood, its so fast I am almost afraid to drive it because those concrete things on the side of the road hurt.

 

ACk battery RC cars.../me eyeballs his nitro goodies that have no battery life.

Bill you carry alot of Tmaxx stuff?

Brandon

 

Mike:
Exit 269 on I75N Barrett Parkway.

Three stop signals after going under I75 turn right at Chuckie Cheese and look for the old Theatre which is now HobbyTown USA.

Don't have to buy anything, we will just talk truck chit.

Brandon:
We carry every part Traxxas has for the T-Maxx as well as probably 4-5 aftermarket replacement supplier parts for every part on the truck. Aluminum, titanium, blue, silver, purple stuff, you name it.

We sold about 300 T-Maxxes in December and my boys know just about everything you need to know about that particular vehicle.

Steve: I'm not selling stuff, just giving advice

You better show up pretty soon to get your free advice too

 

Doug:

Couple of ideas from my boys.
Always understand that every racer has his/her own preferences, but you cannot go wrong on these.

ESC:
ASCLRP8410 Takes to 16 turns w/reverse. I sell it for $100, you can get it online cheaper.

NOV1860. Takes any motor you want to put against it. I sell it for $140.

If you go to a 10 turn motor try a NOV1660. No reverse but it will take any power level motor.

Sorry, ASC is Associated and NOV is Novak, both top drawer products.

Hope that helps.
Bill

 

Great Tips Bill thanks for taking the time...

One follow up question - Why do the motor Manufacturers NOT solder the noise capacitors on at the factory or put them inside the case ?

Seems odd that the ESC vendors sell a capacitor to solder to the motor.. Maybe the mechanical Speed controls dont need it ?

Doug

 

I've got the Associated F1 Power ESC w/Reverse and I really like it. It was easy to set up and seemed to extend the battery life considerably. On a properly charged battery, it ran 50-70% longer than my buddies' with other ESCs.

I haven't run anything other than the stock motor yet but, after talking to others, it seems like 13 turns is more than enough motor capacity.